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533 left side weak

willie59

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Dec 21, 2008
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Knoxville TN
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Well it appears that your machine doesn't have a case drain filter on the motors, that's nothing to worry about. The main hyd filter would be there to filter the system oil. I can tell what your wanting to know at this point..."do I have a bad motor?" I'm not there looking at your components, but I can only say if you have a motor that is removed from the machine, you spin the shaft of the motor by hand, you get no pressure build on either of the large ports when you put your thumb over the ports, but get air release from the small (case drain) port...you have a bad motor. I can't say this for certain...but that's pretty much the way it works for case drain motors.
 

willie59

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That would be completely normal on a good motor. You should feel air coming out of the small third outlet (case drain) on a good motor if you turn it by hand.




;)

Do you mean I should NOT feel any air coming from the third small outlet on a good motor?[/QUOTE]


Sorry about that typo...on a "good" motor, you should feel "no" air coming from the small (case drain) outlet. :eek:
 

spitzair

Senior Member
Joined
May 4, 2007
Messages
1,008
Location
Squamish BC (Home), Slave Lake, AB (Work)
About the levers not being physically able to be moved to opposite positions from each other that's the way it's designed. On our Bobcat 732 the two levers are mounted to long sleeves on a cross shaft that goes from the left side of the machine to the right side. Then where the two sleeves meet they have a finger looking thing from one side reaching into a slot that's hooked up to the other lever. That way they're prevented from being moved to fully opposite positions... Probably the same on your 533... As Atco says, I also think that your motor is most likely finished... I noticed a lot of drive motors for different sizes of Bobcats on Ebay over the last few days so you might be able to find something there for a decent price.
Hope I've been at least a tiny bit helpful...
 

wayne1234

Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2009
Messages
24
Location
Indiana
Well I took the "bad" left motor into a local hydro shop. it is bad, grotor. is what they said and at first they thought they could get parts. but they cant... here is the delima.. the "new replacement motors have a higher rpm so if I only replace 1 it will go in circles they say... so there is a company on ebay (that is actually local to me)that sell the char lynn replacement motors that have the faster rpm. so I would need 2 it comes to almost $2000 for both with taxes... OUCH!!! I have of course looked on ebay and havent found that exact motor... The other monkey in the wrench is the machine isnt in the best of shape like I have to give the engine a shot of eather to get her going .. I am weary of putting too much into a hole... I know it must have some salvage value.. for the parts.. I have seen a local case 1816b that has a rebuilt gas motor for about $3000. which has only 700 hours. and thy say the meter is working... you guys know anywhere else I can look for a used wheel motor? or what other hydraulic motors would work ? Thanks
 

wayne1234

Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2009
Messages
24
Location
Indiana
I'm thinking it would be fairly easy to adapt 2 new motors , but I dont see many that have a case drain... can someone help me figure out something that would work as far as the hydraulics go? it looks like the 4 bolt mount is common, and you could have a machine shop make the gear to shaft piece,, I actually saw the gears at TSC, when I got the chain link... Thanks for any input
 

wayne1234

Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2009
Messages
24
Location
Indiana
After talking to a hydraulic supply company. thy are saying you dont have to run a motor that has a case drain. Does this sound right? They found the specs on the old motor and I would have to make up the sprocket part . but the motors are mega cheap.. it is a surplus center. so both motors would be 400 shipped.
 

wayne1234

Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2009
Messages
24
Location
Indiana
it seems I would want a straight shaft not a tapered one so I cane use ay hub,,, unless it is a 1" tappered like the factory.. which that surplus motors werent... the search continues
 

willie59

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Try calling Ron, the owner of Fluid Power International and see if he can give you some input. http://www.fpihydraulics.com/
Mayber even e-mail him some pics of your motor. Some Bobcat motors, like the Rexroth that's used on the T190, is Bobcat only. But there may be something avialable for your machine. It's worth a try. :)
 

bob snyder

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2009
Messages
18
Location
bigriver sask
Occupation
contractor
I have had this machine a few months and used it for about 8-10 hours around the house, it already had this problem when I got it... in forward it seems to track basically straight... in reverse like back dragging it veers to the left pretty bad... if you skid to the right it seems fine... if you skid to the left it moans and wont do much... I checked the linkages and everything seems fine there... the brake doesnt seem to work I adjusted the nut on the linkage and didnt seem to matter either way the plate is tipped(I dont know which way is even suppose to be brake applied) the machine seems the same and it doesnt seem to apply the brakes at all.... Im not worried about the brake working, but I dont know if it has anything to do with the weak left side , I doubt it but I'm just throwing it out there.... I need to drain the "hydraulic" fluid because like a dummy I topped it off with actual hydraulic fluid,, instead of the motor oil it suggests in the engine compartment. is there a actual drain plug? where should I start on the weak left side. Thanks

:)At least yors moves , i bought a 60xt and after about 20 hrs my left side wont move at all , and being in northern sask cant get any help:Banghead Good luck:D
 

pcbobcat

New Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2009
Messages
4
Location
norther california
weak left side

wish i would have seen this earlier I have 1997 763 and had the exact same problem. The dealers mech. said it either the pump or the drive motor. And to test he told me to get line plugs and he told me exactly which ones. I got them them and plugged the lines from the pump to the motor at the motor. after giving some stick to move the side the pump dead headed and tried to stall (exactly what he wanted me to look for). my next question can the pump be fixed and he said usually there destroyed inside. well about $950 and about 2 months to come from bobcat everything was running, thank god it wasnt the pump that would have been a nightmare waiting to happen. but hopefully this will lead you in the right direction if it happens again.
 

wayne1234

Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2009
Messages
24
Location
Indiana
well got it going hopefully this will help someone in the future... I ordered a set of motors from a internet hydraulic surplus center... type that in and you will seethe results... I matched it up with the same hydraulic stats that the origional motors had .. they also have a case drain so no new pluming was required.. had to have the chanin sprockets bored to a straight 1 1/4 bore , instead of the tapered shaft the old motors had... it had a 2 hole mount so I had to re drill the mounting flange.. but it fired right up and works fine. these motors were $600 shipped and $100 at the machine shop getting the gears bored and a collar made to space out the gears. The motors are a M+S hydraulic modle MLHSYA 315 C4C burden has them... I did however have a ton of time in research it took me about 6-8 hours of disassemble on the old stuff, have at least 10 hours in research and about 8-10 hours on reseambly. The rpmon these motors is a touch higher so it is a little faster but not by much.. I also had to drill a drain on the chain wet oil sumo because the motors do not fill in the hole oil tight like the original ones did I am using motorcycle chain lube on the chains now which is what my case 1816b does from the factory, plus this is not used commercially on a daily basis.. my machines may see only a few hundred hours a year on them... Here are some of the specs I found on the origional MAE Motors
19-20 GPM 190 RPM at 20 GPM 8200IN LBS torqure 3000PSI max cont 4000PSI max peak... these figures helped me decide which motor to get... Let me stress this is not for the faint of heart . but the alternative is $2600 in parts from the bobcat dealer. and I was willing to take the risk. you may not want to.I have used it now and everything works great.. now I have 2 skidsteers because I did buy the case I talked about earlier... Just like when you got your first one you find reasons or chances to use them both or when someone borrows 1 you still have something ... Thanks for the input it defiantly helped me and hopefully this will help some one in the future...
 

wayne1234

Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2009
Messages
24
Location
Indiana
Also I have the one good origional motor the at was on the right side it is going to go up for sale so hopefully I can recoup some of my money anyone on here need/ want something like that before it goes to ebay?.. The other "bad motor has also been reassembled but needs a new rotor which isnt available but the shaft and housing are good if someone has a broken shaft or housing... I know I would have paid a pretty penny for these when I was looking .. Ill hold on to them for a couple of weeks before I put em up for auction...
 

spitzair

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May 4, 2007
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1,008
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Squamish BC (Home), Slave Lake, AB (Work)
Good to hear you got 'er up and running again! Sounds like it was quite a bit of work! One thing about the sump though, the axle bearings are lubricated by the oil in there as far as I know so you may need to do something in that department... I'm not trying to be a spoilsport or a prophet of doom, just trying to keep you from having issues in the future after all the work and time invested...
 

wayne1234

Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2009
Messages
24
Location
Indiana
yeah I also used the chain lube on the sxle bearings.. I figure with the low rpm related to a bobcat instead to a motorcycle chain .. the lube should last a while and I will grease them like the joints every few runs , since my top plates dont need to be oil tight now I can easily remove them... spray some lube and go on.
 
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