-
Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!
74 case 350 crawler loader resortation
- Thread starter hvguy
- Start date
About damn time something went my way!
For whoever wants to know whats going on with my dual hose impact, its a 3/4 drive and takes a TON of air. I dont have big air lines, but I have a big tank, easiest thing is to run dual air lines.
ooh, forgot to mention, so I previously said something about the rear gearbox not having its 3x bolts holding the plate... thats because 1 of them is sheared off and the other 2 dont line up, as if somebody ran this down a hill and hit a tree with the right track. Ill get a pic if I can remember.
For whoever wants to know whats going on with my dual hose impact, its a 3/4 drive and takes a TON of air. I dont have big air lines, but I have a big tank, easiest thing is to run dual air lines.
ooh, forgot to mention, so I previously said something about the rear gearbox not having its 3x bolts holding the plate... thats because 1 of them is sheared off and the other 2 dont line up, as if somebody ran this down a hill and hit a tree with the right track. Ill get a pic if I can remember.
I've been where you are in a sense. Wait till about the middle of July when its hot to do these repairs. Its a fantastic way to loose weight. On a serious note I like the dual air lines and hope it comes together for you. I've been on sort of the same path myself.
Id rather be hot than cold lol, Ive got fans for days. Good luck on your weary travels of heavy machinery.
WOW! ive seen some broken things that I can still salvage.... but this takes it to a whole new level. Had I gotten the roller off last night, I could have ordered the new part and had it here tomorrow...
One funny thing is this roller is different from the others. It has this huge plate on the sides. I read that it came with 2 different rollers; case and intertrac. Intertrac has the big outside steel shield and is oil filled with an integral mounting bracket. The case is sealed bearings with grease zerks and separate mounting brackets... This one is kind of a hybrid; no zerk, oil filled, separate mounting brackets, thick steel outer plate.
One funny thing is this roller is different from the others. It has this huge plate on the sides. I read that it came with 2 different rollers; case and intertrac. Intertrac has the big outside steel shield and is oil filled with an integral mounting bracket. The case is sealed bearings with grease zerks and separate mounting brackets... This one is kind of a hybrid; no zerk, oil filled, separate mounting brackets, thick steel outer plate.
Labparamour
Senior Member
I bought a couple used sections of 1" air line with crowfoot couplings then made a shorter whip to the gun.
They do use a ton of air but beat a cheater bar
Keep posting pics.
Good job,
DB
doublewide
Senior Member
You can do it! We're rootin' for ya!
Thanks!, traded a guy $200 for a brand new track roller. Didnt really want to lathe out a new axle for something thats already garbage and I dont have bearings for.
I pulled the other roller and am in the process of replacing its bearings. All downhill from here.... sorta.
One little helpful thing I could add to this is when I was taking the roller axle cap bolts off, one particular bolt was giving me ****; I was using a half inch impact-no extension- impact rated socket, I ran it forwards and backwards and it eventually came out.
Hope this helps anyone.
Edit: censored words? is this server in china?
https://youtu.be/aZd10Ka19fY
I ended up drilling out the bolts. I got one perfect, the other drilled hole walked since it appears that they used different grade bolts. Ended up running out of fu#ks and tapped it sideways, made the roller hole a bit bigger and called it good. So it has 1 bolt per side. I realize this is not ideal, and if it gives me any crap, ill weld it.
Rebuilt the other slack roller with the bearings I mentioned. It was a breeze; 2 blows with a hammer had it apart, a few more hits to knock the bearings and seals out. Hammered the new bearings in with ease, more hammering to push the shaft through and it was done. 10/10 would recommend.
Problem is, I spent $90 on bearings from a place that over prices everything... a new aftermarket roller is $100 plus shipping. I would have spent another $10 to get it, problem is I wanted to finish this track BS this weekend. These bearings can be had for MUCH cheaper from ebay. Ive found them for $16.95 shipped. Im sure with a volume discount, you could rebuild all 10 rollers for about $200.
I need to go by home depot for some 3/4" bolts to hold the hub gearbox to the main mounting plate. I looked closer into the problem, it appears that the nut unscrewed itself in the lower hole and the other 2 were broken off from probably a large impact. I wish I could talk to who ever used to own this..... soooo many questions.
ON a side note, I greased all the rollers, it took 3 tubes of grease. My elbow hurts... and im not even old lol. Need to invest in an air grease gun. (notice the grease has endurium.... a made up mineral from a 1986 movie lol)
I ended up drilling out the bolts. I got one perfect, the other drilled hole walked since it appears that they used different grade bolts. Ended up running out of fu#ks and tapped it sideways, made the roller hole a bit bigger and called it good. So it has 1 bolt per side. I realize this is not ideal, and if it gives me any crap, ill weld it.
Rebuilt the other slack roller with the bearings I mentioned. It was a breeze; 2 blows with a hammer had it apart, a few more hits to knock the bearings and seals out. Hammered the new bearings in with ease, more hammering to push the shaft through and it was done. 10/10 would recommend.
Problem is, I spent $90 on bearings from a place that over prices everything... a new aftermarket roller is $100 plus shipping. I would have spent another $10 to get it, problem is I wanted to finish this track BS this weekend. These bearings can be had for MUCH cheaper from ebay. Ive found them for $16.95 shipped. Im sure with a volume discount, you could rebuild all 10 rollers for about $200.
I need to go by home depot for some 3/4" bolts to hold the hub gearbox to the main mounting plate. I looked closer into the problem, it appears that the nut unscrewed itself in the lower hole and the other 2 were broken off from probably a large impact. I wish I could talk to who ever used to own this..... soooo many questions.
ON a side note, I greased all the rollers, it took 3 tubes of grease. My elbow hurts... and im not even old lol. Need to invest in an air grease gun. (notice the grease has endurium.... a made up mineral from a 1986 movie lol)
Labparamour
Senior Member
You're making great progress.
For the roller with only two bolts: maybe weld over bad hole in frame and use roller as a guide to re-drill/tap holes?
Just seems you've done a great job so far, be a shame to have it give you grief once you have it back together...
DB
For the roller with only two bolts: maybe weld over bad hole in frame and use roller as a guide to re-drill/tap holes?
Just seems you've done a great job so far, be a shame to have it give you grief once you have it back together...
DB
Its all back together! Only thing that I fixed was a squeeky roller... it still drives to the right -_-
I had to put the track back on myself, so I employed the telehandler to hold the track up while I pushed it on with bars and a sledge. It wasn't easy, but took about a solid hour.
I started by chaining the middle of the track to the lift, hoisted it up, pushed it over to the sprocket and lifted the track onto the teeth of the sprocket. I used a ratchet strap through the hole in the sprocket to hold the track; and keep it from falling off and starting over.
Next I pulled on the track by hand to the front of the machine and lowered the track the rest of the way.
I then hooked up a cheap ratchet strap to the bucket and lifted it up onto the front idler wheel. From there I used 2 large 1" square tubes and a sledge hammer to beat the track onto the idler. This is where I spent most of my time.
After It was all on, I put my air jack between the carriage and the track; lifted it up and installed the track carrier roller.
Picked the whole machine up and remove the logs I had holding it up. Let it down and pumped up the track tensioner.
ALSO, on another note, I didnt use the old fan shroud because I figured that it didnt need it... well, pretty much ZERO air flows through the radiator. Ill probably remove it and put this small (but very powerful) motorcycle electric fan on there instead.
I had to put the track back on myself, so I employed the telehandler to hold the track up while I pushed it on with bars and a sledge. It wasn't easy, but took about a solid hour.
I started by chaining the middle of the track to the lift, hoisted it up, pushed it over to the sprocket and lifted the track onto the teeth of the sprocket. I used a ratchet strap through the hole in the sprocket to hold the track; and keep it from falling off and starting over.
Next I pulled on the track by hand to the front of the machine and lowered the track the rest of the way.
I then hooked up a cheap ratchet strap to the bucket and lifted it up onto the front idler wheel. From there I used 2 large 1" square tubes and a sledge hammer to beat the track onto the idler. This is where I spent most of my time.
After It was all on, I put my air jack between the carriage and the track; lifted it up and installed the track carrier roller.
Picked the whole machine up and remove the logs I had holding it up. Let it down and pumped up the track tensioner.
ALSO, on another note, I didnt use the old fan shroud because I figured that it didnt need it... well, pretty much ZERO air flows through the radiator. Ill probably remove it and put this small (but very powerful) motorcycle electric fan on there instead.
Last edited:
thepumpguysc
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2010
- Messages
- 7,687
- Location
- Sunny South Carolina
- Occupation
- Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Nice work.. sorry it didn't solve the tracking problem tho.. ya got any other ideas??
BTW> what size is you shop?? and whats the size of that door??
Look on the brite side.. you got decent weather..
BTW> what size is you shop?? and whats the size of that door??
Look on the brite side.. you got decent weather..
Funny you say nice weather, it was 81 and I had a freeze warning for this evening lol. It was 80ish when I took those pics, and it's 35 now. That door is 16ft wide, the building is 30x80ft and is about 20ft tall with radiant floor heating.
I'll take a close look tomorrow on the track alignment. May have to use a come along to pull it straight and weld a bar.
DMiller
Senior Member
Hate to make mention but those rails are no longer iffy, they are pretty well toast. They snake as bad or worse than my own unit's rails and they have a bad habit of rolling off when side pressured pretty hard. As to the side slipping, I would be looking hard at something inside the final drive. I looked up how Case did their final bevel and pinion set up, used bushings and sun gear/planetaries for differential drive. Something inside there has to be binding or laying down to cause side pressure to make it try to steer.
Labparamour
Senior Member
Sorry that didn't solve the tracking.
My Deere manual talks about undercarriage issues as possible cause of not tracking straight.
Maybe see if your manual describes how to align/measure track carriers...?
DB
My Deere manual talks about undercarriage issues as possible cause of not tracking straight.
Maybe see if your manual describes how to align/measure track carriers...?
DB
TomA
Well-Known Member
Might be a good time to measure pitch and compare one side to the other. Badly worn tracks do not always wear evenly. If one side is worn more than the other it will turn towards the one with the least wear.