955K drive questions/ suggestions

[JeremiahSr]

I don't think you need to mess with bevel gear an pinion to do the clutches an brake bands. In fact if you haven't set up bearing pre-load and backlash before it's probly best you don't open that can of worms. Take all the bolts out of each side of the clutch flanges. Slide them together off of flanges and pull them straight up. The clutch release yoke just slips out of a cup in the bottom of the case. It is 2 big assemblies each side of bevel gear. You can jack the machine on the track to slowly move it so the clutches slow roll to remove then reinstall bolts. Make sure the yoke goes back in the cup when installing. Also make sure you have the band turned the right way before installing clutch! I have done this and it is a bad day when the band won't pin up and you have to remove all the bolts and pull the clucth...then reinstall again! It is a long process but it gets done every day somewhere! But if all this was working fine and you don't see any obvious problems to address just do the bands. After you clean it all up and reassemble....it will be alot easier to tear down years down the road if something else goes wrong in there. The only good things to do while the clutch is out is to check the brake release yoke bearing and to take a measurement of the discs of the clutch. If it is under measurement then you will want to rebuild the clutches when they are out. This too is a big job. To rebuild these you have to press the flanges on and off with special tooling to get the proper tonage, and to release the keepers in the springs an install takes other special tooling. Alot of mechanic shops has these tools but not many owner operators that i know of do. When you get that far for a measurement let me know an i will look it up for ya. Good luck! Heres a few pics.

 

[wagspe208]

Maybe I am off here.... once I remove the big ass cover that covers the bevel gear/ clutches/ bands, I can slide the bands out? (un pin them and pulln them out) Meaning I do not need to physically lift the whole assembly out of the machine? I was under the impression the whole shebang would have to be lifted out for bands.....not so?
I, then can check clutch clearance also? without pulling the whole assembly?
Sounds simple if that is the case (HA)
Thanks
Wags

 

[wagspe208]

Ah... reread, your post. The clutches/ bands bolt on... not 1 single long ass shaft.
Once I see it, I am pretty sure I can do it.
I haven't run across anything mechanical I could not fix.
I will look at the pics online of the cat parts manual. Their drawings don't seem to be very good.
Thanks
Wags

 

[JeremiahSr]

The whole assembly is as follows...a clutch, bevel gear assembly(cross shaft), clutch. You can pull whole assembly up then swap bands....but then you have to reset the bearing preload and backlash for ring gear and pinion. If this is not a problem for you then you can do it that way. I do this alot and have the dial indicators, specifications, etc. If you go this route always check the backlash in at least 3 places around the ring gear and pinion. This does not need to be done if everything is running fine and when you have tha big cover off you don't see anything obviously damaged.
If i am only changing bands or clutches i never mess with the cross shaft (center section) if it doesn't need it. These parts can run through 4 to 10 sets of brake band changes. The way i am saying to do this task is after you remove that big 'ol cover take all the bolts out each side of clutch flanges (1 side the top pinion, other side cross shaft flange) leave the cross shaft....ring gear assembly in place.

 

[JeremiahSr]

And i just saw that you re-read the post. I don't think you will have any problems pulling the 2 clutch assemblies out. The top pinion flange is as big as the clutch and the cross shaft flange is half the size with half the amount of bolts in it. Just dive in there an you will get it!

 

[wagspe208]

Ah... totally get it. Thanks
Sounds easy enough. I have set up rear ends, etc, but if I don't have to touch it, no reason to. I am with you on that.
Wags

 

[Bob/Ont]

Ah... totally get it. Thanks
Sounds easy enough. I have set up rear ends, etc, but if I don't have to touch it, no reason to. I am with you on that.
Wags

Not so easy, a 955 has a bevelgear shaft that has both clutches pressed onto the ends of it. It all needs to come out together.
Later Bob

 

[toddcat955L]

wagspe208 / Getting ready to order Break Bands and Rivet,.hope U are having GOOD LUCK with your repairs.Iam laying back a little, working on several other things hoping youll post some good INFO on your progress on Break Bands and clucth repairs. Hope all goes WELL!!!

 

[wagspe208]

Picking up a 3/4" impact wrench tomorrow. Loader is here. Looked at what it takes. Looks like it will take a while, but not be particularly hard to get down to the bevel gearcase cover anyway.
I will yank the fuel tank and battery box. It might be possible to do it without yanking the battery box, but this gives me better access to wash stuff, trans line, pump, filter, etc.
Wags
Big projects don't scare me. It can only go together 1 way and work... haha

 

[wagspe208]

wagspe208 / Getting ready to order Break Bands and Rivet,.hope U are having GOOD LUCK with your repairs.Iam laying back a little, working on several other things hoping youll post some good INFO on your progress on Break Bands and clucth repairs. Hope all goes WELL!!!

Now, are you sure you are out of adjustment on the bands? I forgot why you are replacing them.
Wags

 

[toddcat955L]

wagspe208, When I pulled out the SUCTION SCREEN, inside the screen had 75% of the BANDS in it.HAHA!! It sure did look like it. Anyway there is no more adjustment 2 speek of on the BANDS, so replacement is needed. Just thought I would ask when you get yours done, if you would like more {PRACTICE** I would be more then glad to let U replace the ones on my unit!!

 

[wagspe208]

wagspe208, When I pulled out the SUCTION SCREEN, inside the screen had 75% of the BANDS in it.HAHA!! It sure did look like it. Anyway there is no more adjustment 2 speek of on the BANDS, so replacement is needed. Just thought I would ask when you get yours done, if you would like more {PRACTICE** I would be more then glad to let U replace the ones on my unit!!

Wow, that is very nice of you. Does your piece have ROPS or FOPS?
If out of adjustmernt... sure, tackle it.
I will be on it this week.
Wags

 

[JeremiahSr]

Bob/Ont is right on that crossshaft situation. This machine does not have a flange presses onto shaft and then the clutch bolts to it. This clutch hub is pressed directly on the cross shaft. You absolutely have to pull whole assembly. My mistake...sorry. I should have looked at Dissasembly 1st. This is rare to have clutch pressed straight on to shaft...most all machines has a flange pressed on there and the clutch will unbolt from it.

 

[wagspe208]

Well, started on the jewel tonight. I started about 4:30, and was showered by 6:15, so not to bad.
FOPS off, side guards off, left rear bracket off.
You MUST have a 3/4" impact wrench. Well, no must, but you are a damn fool of you don't.
A ladder is helpful.
Fuel tank will be next. Here is a pic or two.
Well, screw me. Need the other computer to modify size.
Hold please.
Wags

 

[toddcat955L]

wagspe208, Right behind U,sounds like your going good.Your right on about the 3/4 impact ,it gets the job done without a lot of strain, and U can still injoy the work.Tugging on large wenches, is no fun anymore!
Let the AIR do the "TUGGING". Good Luck!!!

 

[wagspe208]

Let's see if this works. Had to resize images.
Wags

 

[HATCHEQUIP]

be sure you take the little oil line in front of housing off . while you have assembly out measure clutch packs for amount of life left inspect bevel shaft bearings and races. allso check final drive oil levels if the final drive pinion seals are leaking the steering oil will go into final drives but you will need a press to get the final drive pinion flanges off if you do have to do this go ahead and pull the final pinions out and look at them thats what wears the worst in the finals when you get it back together be sure and check your steering and brake linkage rods for proper lengths then get it on a hill and work the pedals while on the hill in gear the first pedal travel should dissengage the clutches before the brakes evan start to come in and machine should roll . if not it will be hard to steer and wear the brakes back out and crystalize the drums. when an old k model is adjusted correctly its a sweat running machine

 

[toddcat955L]

wagspe208, Have not heard anything from you, hope all is going well with B bands. Iam going slow with this weather, found some other issues with my unit, radiator needs to be pulled and boiled out.But Iam getting along slowly.almost have everthing cleared out of the way for B bands. Hopefully with some fair temperatures repairs can move a bit faster.Good Luck with yours!View attachment 99266

 

[wagspe208]

Weather brought me to a stand still too. I as running around all weekend, and rain and suckeed this week. I am just about to where you are. Did you pull the battery box, or just fuel tank?
Wags

Oh, that cross shaft in the way (fuel tank mount) looks like it comes out by removing the 4 bolts on each side. Probably be a little easier.

 

[wagspe208]

OK, so there is no way in hell I would have found the bevel gearcase suction screen. It was buried in 2" of muck.
The trans filter looks good?? (this is the large one, right?)
Note the bevel gearcase screen... has some debris on the inside. What really concerns me is the white teflon piece. This was wadded up INSIDE the filter. I assume it is a seal of some sort, or o-ring backer.
So, this piece is sluggish to dead when cold. Trans does not move. I will replace o-rings on suction side of everything. Other places to look when apart?
Thanks
Wags