955K drive questions/ suggestions

[HATCHEQUIP]

push the brake hubs toward the center to get paast flanges take locks off bearing blocks and backoff bearing adjusters so there not holding tension when lifting out and you need the extra clearance so you dont chip gear teeth take sperical rod end out and lift with chain or cable in those holes but with the longest legs that you can work with because those pieces set in a ball pivot on the bottem and the more your trying to squeze the top in it makes it harder getting them out and a pain putting every thing back in and to get them back in their holes there are two square plates on top of the filter housing cover that you take off to adjust a and b swivel feet and yes those other pieces will have a little play ive allways set the back lash to speck but check in 4 places and set to speck at tightes point you will set this with the brake hub bolts out so you can turn everything and not have to do it with a bottle jack under the tracks if pinion is sloppy you will have to fix it or its going to start shucking teeth one of these days did you ever check the final drive oil levels to see if they were over full?? are we having fun yet haha take care Randy

 

[wagspe208]

It honestly isn't to bad of a job so far. I was never afraid of big projects. Now, that being said... it isn't all the way apart yet and it still has to go together. I'm a pretty sharp mechanic.... but I am always looking for pointers on stuff I am not familiar with.
Thanks a ton.
Wags

 

[OldandWorn]

I really don’t think it matters if you replace the pinion bearings or not considering the use your machine will see. That being said, I might replace them if it were my machine but more for stupid anal reasons and being half way there. Because of wear, I would blue the teeth both in the current and proper setup before making my final decision. If you don’t replace the pinion bearings or mess with the shims I would suggest that you pull the pinion towards the rear of the machine and set the backlash to .005-.008 clearance.

 

[wagspe208]

OW... good suggestion to check pattern before ripping apart.
So, the seal that separates trans oil from gearcase oil... is this between the pinion roller bearings? Or in the rear of the trans case? IF I rip the pinion out... hell, what is another few bucks for a seal.
Hatch, I have not checked final drive oil level. However, after the piece was underwater, I checked the fluid, it wass all clean and good. I will check again. I bet I DON'T tackle that project.
Hatch, these levers that ride on the booster valve ends are not so critical? See the wear on B vs A. And the slop is no big deal?
Thanks for the tips guys.
Rrained tonight. I had other stuff to work on (make some cash to pay for cat parts).

 

[HATCHEQUIP]

is the play comparible to the other side ?? the wear on the foot print can be adjusted out by going thru the square covers after the top is. on the reason i asked if the finals were over full is the final drive pinion seals behind the hubs on each side if they start leaking will over fill the finals with steering oil.

 

[OldandWorn]

The only seal is in a groove on the male splines that go into the transmission shaft. There must be transmission oil inside of the female splines? If you decide to change the bearings the outer race on the forward roller bearing will most likely be stuck in the housing. CAT shows removing it with a puller with the 3 fingers facing outwards to get behind the race.

Must have been a lot of forward right turns or reverse left turns with all of the wear on the one side of the linkage.

 

[HATCHEQUIP]

right handed operator allways prefers right foot if theres a choice haha

 

[OldandWorn]

right handed operator allways prefers right foot if theres a choice haha

Yeah, my right brake is weak and spongy feeling compared to the left. Maybe I can equal things out a bit being left handed.

 

[wagspe208]

Interestingly enough... the left pivot arm is the sloppy one. The one marked A. The right one, with the most wear on the pad is pretty decent. I was surprised to find that.
I will be back to tearing up crap on Saturday.
Thanks
Wags

 

[HATCHEQUIP]

maybe thes might help you know what they say pictures worth alot

 

[HATCHEQUIP]

 

[HATCHEQUIP]

 

[toddcat955L]

wagspe208, Looks like it,s all coming together for you,Iam not as far as you are but getting there slow but sure.Will be on it this weekend, working on radiator, need to remove it and make repairs. nice PIC,s . Looks like you have the unit cleaned up well to work on it.that just makes it all easier.Good luck!!!!!

 

[toddcat955L]

wagspe208, Do your break bands resembled these? And what condition are these compared to yours?

 

[wagspe208]

wagspe208, Do your break bands resembled these? And what condition are these compared to yours?View attachment 99440View attachment 99441

 

[toddcat955L]

wagspe208, No rest for the wicked, come on let's getter done!! I'm not quite as far as you might think, I would like to try to find out how much percentage is still on these liners!

 

[wagspe208]

Should be easy to find out.
Pinion ok, seals ok?
Wags
Rip out those steering clutches. Let's see em.

 

[wagspe208]

Well, I found nothing on thickness. We know for sure when you hit rivets they are done. When you are out of adjustment, they are done.
How far are you from the rivets?
Wags

 

[toddcat955L]

wagspe208, Anyway 2 get in contact with u.

 

[wagspe208]

wagspe208, Anyway 2 get in contact with u.

PMed you my number.
Wags