955k oil pressure

[Nige]

yes, in photo 1 it is between the lines on the housing, in photo 3 it is the crack depicted in the middle of the photo, in photo 4 it's the clean spot towards the bottom of the photo.

Shows why we have belly guards on machines like this one then doesn't it ...?

 

[houser]

Yes, belly guards are useful. That's why I bought one. Unfortunately the previous owner was not be bright! Does anyone know how hard it is to take that cover off and whether or not it can be welded? Regarding the oil pressure line, II will try the air pressure test before hooking it up. Thanks again guys!

 

[Nige]

See the illustration below, it's a view from the LH side of the machine. The flexible coupling is located in the blue circle centre left.

Is the crack located on the transmission case in the area of the red circle and approximately how long does it appear to be..?
If the idea is to weld the crack (that housing should be weldable BTW, but to do so successfully needs access from both inside and outside of it) then IMHO the transmission has to come out and be partially disassembled to give access to both sides of the crack.

The housing is not a stressed component so there may be a possiblity of using something like a Dremel to make a V-shaped groove along the length of the crack and try to seal it using a 2-pack epoxy sealer. However I've never tried doing something like that on a crack like yours. Maybe other members can throw in some opinions.

 

[houser]

Yes, the crack is where the red circle is at. It is about 2 inches long (the one that is leaking). there is also one about 2 inches away that is parallel to the one that is leaking. It looks as if something square in shape may have hit the case, cracking one area enough to cause a leak and the other side just enough to have a hair-line crack. I have some JB Weld, 2 part epoxy that I was going to try if the housing is too hard to remove. See my earlier top picture, the shaft that you circle in blue on mine appears about 6 inches long. I was wondering if it unbolts somehow from a different shaft that appears your picture as smaller. If so, I was wondering what I would have to do to remove the casing that you made a red circle on. Thanks a bunch for all your help!

 

[Tom955k]

See my earlier top picture, the shaft that you circle in blue on mine appears about 6 inches long. I was wondering if it unbolts somehow from a different shaft that appears your picture as smaller.

That flange is splined and slides off of the torque converter input shaft after you remove the round rubber biscuits. You may want to replace the input shaft seal if you take it apart.

If it were my machine, I would try the JB Weld first. My .02

 

[Delmer]

If it were my machine, I would try the JB Weld first. My .02

JB weld, or even silicone RTV-Permatex black etc. Of course it needs to be clean, and that almost certainly means draining the oil, and/or maybe parking on a slope so the oil doesn't pool in that spot, grind the paint off with a carbide burr and clean it with air and brake cleaner.

 

[old-iron-habit]

I repaired a similar crack about 4 inches long in a log skidder transmission a few years ago. It leaked badly, a gallon an hour or more. I parked it with one end up on the log pile, drained the transmission down somewhat and cleaned up the crack with starter fluid. I then V'd it a bit with a dremel tool and used JB weld to seal it. It was about 15 degrees outside outside so I preheated the area to about 70 degrees and then let the generator run all night with a 500 watt quartz lamp on it three inches away to keep it warm to cure. Knock on wood, but its still holding so far.

 

[Nige]

It seems as though JB weld is becoming your preferred option. The only thing I would say is that you're going to have to get it really clean, probably using brake cleaner after first removing all the paint. I would personally do it at the same time as you are changing the transmission oil because that will empty the case. I'm not sure exactly where the oil level is in that housing, it may be possible to park the machine on a slope so that the oil runs away from the crack but that's your call. Maybe a bit of heat from something like a blowlamp will drive out whatever oil is in the crack and let you get a really good bond to the metal of the case.

And once you get the crack free of leaks - fit the belly guard ..........

 

[houser]

Thanks everyone for the advise. I will try the JB Weld first. Unfortunately, I already changed the transmission oil and filter so I will see if I can start it and use the bucket to lift the front end off the ground far enough to get the oil level towards the back of the tranny. I have some 6x6s that I will throw under the front to make sure it stays up.

 

[houser]

Here is an update for everyone. After replacing another line, the short one that connects the steel under-belly line through the frame connection for the left lift cylinder and draining the transmission oil to use JB Weld on the crack, I was able to use the machine for the first time ! I'll try to post some pics later. So far, it appears to have worked! Now for the next issue:Banghead ! After running it for about 30-45 minutes, my speed going backwards appeared to slow down. I was cutting about a 8% grade for a drive way to a soon-to-be addition to my garage. I was shoveling down the hill and reversing up the slope as I was cutting it. I was only running about 1/4 to 1/2 throttle so I was babying her. I had to add 10 gallons of hydraulic oil to the hydraulics and 5 gallons to the transmission. I used 303 trans-hydraulic oil in both. Both appeared to be full when I filled them. I'll check the transmission fluid later this morning (got dark on me last night). By the way, if I did not state it lately, this forum is great.