Broken leaf spring and crash course in driving a big truck?

[Welder Dave]

I got the new to me dump truck serviced and they said one of the rear leaf springs was broken. Taking a quick look with a different shop foreman when I picked it up we couldn't see where it was broken. They said it's about 8 hours labor to replace a spring pack on Hendricksen suspension. The truck is going to be used off road and never more than 15-20 mph. For what I'm using the truck for, is the broken spring something to worry about and just keep an eye on or is it going to cause big problems? There is a heavy truck wrecker not too far away that likely has a used spring set. Would it be good to see if they can replace the spring? From what I've read the springs can be removed separately.

As far as driving, it was the first time I drove a heavy truck with a non syncro transmission. Asked the GF's step dad who drove big rigs for 35 years if he could drive it for me but no chance of that happening. It didn't have a safety and was 22 years old, and if something happened he'd be on the hook yadda, yadda, yadda. I had temporary insurance and an in transit permit. The truck drove to the auction and RB's does a basic equipment check to make sure the brakes, steering, transmission, etc. are working. I would think an experienced heavy truck driver could tell pretty quick if a truck was road worthy or not. The truck had an alignment in 2014 so must have been on the road then. Anyway, I searched the internet and watched some video's and picked it up Saturday. The truck drove great although I didn't do the transmission any favors. LoL Biggest problem at first was too high of revs. Not used to driving something that shifts under 1500 RPM's. Then I found it was easier shifting without the clutch than trying to double clutch. Downshifting, well that's something I'll have to learn. The shop is open 7 days a week so I did a lot better today taking the truck out to my land. The truck is a 9 speed but think has lower gearing because 60 mph was about 1650 rpm. Still not too happy the "truck driver" couldn't have helped me out. It would have been better if he just said he couldn't do it but when talking to the GF's mom, I could hear him swearing and going on in the background. Sorry, I can't afford a new $160,000 dump truck. Have no use for that arrogant azz.

 

[fast_st]

Depends on the type of suspension, we did a big job when I was younger, it was a couple days but it was all new bushings and pins. If you can pull the spring pack, having it repaired is pretty easy. the danger with a broken leaf depending on how its broken is that the whole spring pack can loose tension and fall apart. $1500 for the replacement doesn't sound bad compared to a new $160k truck.

 

[old-iron-habit]

You can probably save $1,000 of that $1,500 if you take the spring out yourself and replace the leaf youself or even have the shop put the bundle togather. Pretty straight forward stuff.

 

[lantraxco]

Yep, new leaf, new center bolt, have a truck shop or spring shop tighten the center bolt to "Holy S@#T!" and it should be good.

 

[Welder Dave]

Is there a procedure somewhere on how to get just the spring out?

 

[fast_st]

Need some pictures but usually the spring has a pin on each end, if you're lucky they're well greased and move easy. then there will be a couple big u-bolts that hold the spring pack to the axle. often just torch the bolts as the spring shop will fix you up with new nuts/bolts/washers

 

[Welder Dave]

It's Hendricksen RT 403 walking beams. Maybe it won't be too bad to do myself. Originally I thought the spring bolts also held the walking beams on but now I see they don't. I can't see how it's an 8 hour job for a shop equipped to do it. Once the wheels are off, I'm guessing you just support the walking beams and either try to loosen the bolts with a big snipe or torch them off and then take out the hanger bolt?

http://www.hendrickson-intl.com/truck/vocational/rt-rte

 

[DB2]

Torch the u bolts. New ones are inexpensive compared to the effort to unturn the old ones. As far as shifting just get it rolling and shift at low RPM's. You will quickly learn how to float the gears. Only use the clutch to get started.

 

[old-iron-habit]

Torch the u bolts. New ones are inexpensive compared to the effort to unturn the old ones.

Yes torch them and get new. You will never get the old corroded ones tight enough to hold.

 

[south]

Broken Leaf

I have done a few of these and I do not think you are dealing with u-bolts, there are 4 large bolts ( capscrews ) that will need to be undone once you get the suspension spring module out of the truck. If you look at the picture in the link you posted you will see there is a lower saddle that the spring is bolted to and it sits over the walking beam, it is held on by 2 semi circular caps and 4 nuts that come up from the bottom, if you remove the wheels, undo these 4 nuts and caps, remove the pin from the front of the spring hanger (it is held in by (2) 1/2"bolts that run perpendicular to it one on the inside and one on the outside), remove the bolt from the rear spring hanger (1/2" bolt) and then raise the frame while letting the axle hang you will be able to pull the spring and saddle module out by pulling it towards you and up ( it is very heavy ). With this module out you can now undo those 4 large cap screws loosen the two inside pinch bolts (square head wit a jam nut) and pull the spring pack cap off the top and then the spring off the saddle, you will now be able to see all the leafs and the centre pin. Undo the centre pin or torch it and remove the broken leaf install the new leaf, new centre pin and reassemble.

The front pin that holds the leaf pack to the front hanger may be able to be punched out into the centre of the truck but depending what is in the way may need to be punched out to the outside, depending on how often it was greased, it and the bushing in the spring eye may need to be replaced. The easiest way to drive this pin out is to wait until you have jacked up on the frame and let the axles hang a little taking the load off of the spring pack.

You cannot cut the 4 large cap screws and remove only the spring pack, because of the length of these cap screws they are not able to be installed with this spring module in the truck the frame will be in the way and the way the unit is set up you will not get enough travel between the axle and the frame to allow them to drop in ( I know who designs these things ), it is hard enough to get clearance to get the whole module out itself because the opposite side suspension is trying to hold everything together.

This is a big job and requires a 3/4" impact at least and a set of oxy-acetylene torches.



All this being said if you only have one leaf in this pack broken and it is not the eye leaf (the one with he bushing and Pin) and you are using this truck at these low speeds I would probably leave it all together, keep and eye on it and keep using it until another leaf breaks (JMHO). I am not sure if you have to have semi annual inspections but I believe here that is not illegal to have one leaf in a pack like this broken, I will check on that tomorrow and let you know.

I hope this made sense if you need clarification I will do my best to help.

Good luck!

 

[crane operator]

To a inspector, broken is broken, it's a suspension component. There's no "if most of them are there, you don't need that one".

That said, if you're just around your woods/ local area, I don't see you getting stopped. It will work just fine with a leaf broken. If you get stopped and they look close enough to see it, act suprised and thankfull that he noticed it, it must have just happened, and you'll be sure to get that fixed.

My only worry with a broken leaf is that if it can get sideways, the broken piece can stick out and catch a sidewall, ruining a tire. (Think bouncing empty, or turning short to work the piece loose) Then you've got a spring, and a tire to fix.

 

[Welder Dave]

The truck isn't going to be used on the road. My land is at the end of a dead end road kind of in the middle of nowhere. There is crown land behind me. I need to drive about 500' on the road to get into my neighbors field where I'm hauling sand from. My neighbor is the only one who lives down this road so there's literally no traffic other than people coming to my MX track, picking berries or hunting in the crown land. I didn't see the broken spring but I'll take a closer look. Maybe it has a crack but not completely broken? Thanks for all the input. Maybe it's best to just keep an eye on it and not drive across my neighbors field like an idiot and it won't cause any problems. The springs all look to be inline so it's not real obvious. This is great that I'll be able to use the truck and the broken spring might not a critical problem.

As far as driving, I did discover shifting at low rpms without the clutch helps immensely and when you get into high range you can have a little more rpm's. I'll have to practice downshifting though.

 

[south]

Hello Welder Dave,

I checked the inspectors manual this morning and crane operator is right it is a rejection if any one leaf is broken. I guess all I am saying is that if it was me and I was using it for what you have described because I have completed the awful job several times I would just leave it and keep an eye on it daily. Typically they break in the center where the pilot hole would be drilled for the center bolt, have a look around that area.

Take care.

 

[Welder Dave]

I got a couple much more reasonable estimates. The heavy truck wrecker that's close said $700-$1000 with a used spring pack depending and takes about 4 hours not 8. A good spring shop repairing just the broken leaf was just over $1000 for everything. They said if 3 or more leafs are broke the whole spring pack should be replaced. For $700-$800. I think I'd just get the wrecker to do it instead of fighting it myself. I need look close at it though. If it is broke at the hole and not all the way across, I'll just leave it and leave it and keep an eye on it.

 

[DB2]

Sorry for assuming there were u bolts. I'll stick to equipment.

 

[Welder Dave]

No problem, they use new hardware regardless.

 

[LT-x7]

..... As far as shifting just get it rolling and shift at low RPM's. You will quickly learn how to float the gears. Only use the clutch to get started.

Sometimes I will clutch to pull it out of gear for a downshift if it doesn't want to easily slide out of gear. That's just how I do it.... But I don't claim to be a truck driver

 

[borisdavenport]

From my experience we can hear some jerking sounds from those broken springs while on road.
"The truck is going to be used off road and never more than 15-20 mph. For what I'm using the truck for, is the broken spring something to worry about and just keep an eye on or is it going to cause big problems? " I dont advice that much adventure on off road terrain with payloads. You may loose another set of springs as they need to carry those extra "tension" from broken leaf springs.

 

[Welder Dave]

It would be a little different if I could actually find the break. 2 other people also couldn't see a broken spring. The second spring down has a bit of a different notch on the sides near the end but so does the other side and it's supposed to be there. At first look it might appear to be a break.

 

[Axle]

Sometimes this works to find an elusive crack, take your digital camera, set it to the highest resolution your camera is capable of, flash on, macro mode, and take photos of the spring from different angles and then take a look at the photos (use the zoom in & out in your viewer program). Cracks or suspicious spots _sometimes_ become more visible and then you can go in for a closer look in that area on the spring.

Do you classify as agricultural? Hang a slow moving sign on the back and your brief roading between farms will keep you mostly under the radar. [I should add, that may not be the case anymore, that worked back in the 80's]

Alex.