Case 580B shuttle pump...

[chiptoomey]

Pictures?

Phil - I saw this post and it got me curious if this might be part of my problem as well. Do you have any pictures from when you split the tractor to get into the shuttle?

To remove the shuttle assembly, the tractor has to be split. To access the shuttle pump, the large adapter plate(under the fuel tank), has to be removed. I usually split the tractor, then roll the front of the tractor ahead out from under the fuel tank. This allows a pump/pick-up tube inspection, and removal of the shuttle clutch assembly also.

Thanks,
Chip

 

[Phil]

Pics

 

[robint777]

partial fix

After cleaning sludge out of shuttle cavity and refilling it with new hydraulic oil our case 580B went forward and backwards quite well. Previously it did not.

But I then separated the tractor just enough (1/2")to re gasket the seal between that cavity and the rear one with the gear oil in it. I resealed it and now the tractor seams to be stuck in forward.

The column mounted gear selector does not seem to be causing any change in direction or even disengaging it. Stays in forward.

the selector linkage is fine and the valve travels in and out well with movement. But nothing changes inside. Still stays in forward.

Additional symptom. Can not change tranny gear while running because the gears keep turning.

HELP PLEASE

What might be the problem???

 

[robint777]

580B forward but no reverse

I am sure hoping someone can share some experience with this tractor I recently purchased.

After filling with diesel and bubbling air into it. Then refilling it with straight hydraulic oil the tractor ran good in both forward and reverse. Then I realized the rear seal was leaking like crazy. I drained it, separated it, resealed it and then refilled it again with straight hydraulic oil

Problem now is I only have forward gear, the column shifter physically moves the valve but nothing changes inside and only forward is functional

Any thought would be greatly appreciated.

I am hoping to work again on it tomorrow.

Thanks

 

[Phil]

Robin,
Try taking the rear cover back off, as in post #62 second last pic. Note that this is a Rockwell shuttle shown, see if yours looks the same. Note that there is a 'notched drum' either side of the aluminum piston housing. The rear drum is 'forward' clutch pack. See if this drum has some end play(forward to reverse). See if you can wiggle it up and down. Curious if that drum has shifted to the rear a bit when you split the tractor and the forward most clutch disc has not slid back into the notches in that drum.

Does your dash clutch gauge pressure drop, when you depress the clutch pedal?

Just a guess at this point, I've got a cold and just got back from holidays so I'm a little out of it. Phil

 

[Glenn P]

Need help. I bought a 73 580B. All 3 plugs were opened and creamy white oil was drained including the hydraulics and power steering fluid. I cleaned and refill the differential with 85 140w. The 2 fwd plugs are filled with hydraulic fluid? One is the has a dip stick in front of the shifter and the other filler plug is by the starter (I believe for the torque converter). The fill plug near the starter has a screen at the top, fill it to the top? How do I get the converter flush out of the creamy oil?

 

[marslawn]

Hi there also new to this site. I have a 580 super E that wont move. Found chunks of metal in the drain pan. pulled the shuttle/transmission and want to rebuild it. Does anybody have any pictures of a manual of how to do this. oh one more thing, where is a good spot to get parts.

Thanks

 

[fast_st]

Hi there also new to this site. I have a 580 super E that wont move. Found chunks of metal in the drain pan. pulled the shuttle/transmission and want to rebuild it. Does anybody have any pictures of a manual of how to do this. oh one more thing, where is a good spot to get parts.

Thanks

I purchased the factory shop manual from case, best investment ever. Do the chunks of metal look like spring bits? or chips. I supported my rear frame and rolled the gearbox back with the axle, then gutted the shuttle from behind. (mind the shims on the output shaft) I found that most of the o-rings in the shuttle were nicked and that the springs on the clutch packs had disintegrated. Replaced both clutch packs and all the seals. Removed all the nicks in the shuttle with a wet stone before reassembling.

 

[marslawn]

I think I fond the problem

got it all apart and it looks like the stubs on the TC are sheared off. I think I need a new TC. I think I will also do a shuttle rebuild as well. What is the best spot for parts????????

Thanks

 

[fast_st]

When I did mine, the dealer had all the parts in stock, the shuttle clutches were $400 each and all the seals and gaskets were another $100, then a whole lot of 5 gallon pails.

 

[d2r]

"Well done frechele! Now we have 3 drain holes to help us keep the fluid clear of milky stuff and clean the screen as often as we like! I also believe that the mix of 50 percent TCH and 50 percent ATF fluid( DEXRON 3) is very effective, especially in the cold weather."

Like many others here... this is the number one issue I've been having with my 580B.

I'd just like to thank Ron for taking 20 minutes out of his business day to yak on the phone with a relative newbie... explaining the ins and outs of this procedure.

I have a problem with any of my vehicle transmissions, I know where I'm gonna go for service.

 

[dwloop]

Hello everyone,

New guy here, I have been lurking on the site for about three weeks now.

I purchased a later 580b CK about two weeks ago that would not move. I knew the pump seemed good as when it was in neutral the pressures were good, but when in forward or reverse it dropped to zero. After reading that great deal of information here I gambled that the pump intake was plugged and could not get enough oil to build shuttle pressure. Good news is the gamble paid off!! This weekend I had assembled all the tools I needed to drill and tap the drain/clean-out under the pump intake and found about a full cup of trash, along with oil that looked like chocolate milk! I had to change the oil four times to get all the trash and milky oil out, flushing with diesel and then refilling and running a little in between changes. Now the unit pulls good, even in road gear. I worked it about two hours Sunday afternoon, pushing piles of broken concrete block on the property and it worked well.

In short I want to thank Phil and Ron for all this information in a very big way, it is invaluable!! :notworthy:notworthy There is no way to get that trash out of the torque tube short of breaking the tractor without drilling this hole.

Dave

 

[a2btransport]

hi new to site just bought a 580b ck backhoe and i was wondering if i can drain the transmission oil and flush it out with deisel as the oil is milky ?????

 

[a2btransport]

just doing a test

 

[a2btransport]

hi new to site just bought a 580b ck backhoe and i was wondering if i can drain the transmission oil and flush it out with deisel as the oil is milky ?????

 

[a2btransport]

just doing a test to get posts up

 

[a2btransport]

can some one reply to this post i just want to see if i can ask questions now ??

 

[dwloop]

can some one reply to this post i just want to see if i can ask questions now ??

a2btransport,

I see your posts, you should able to see them as well. As far as flushing the shuttle case, after drilling the aforementioned drain/cleanout hole and tapping for the plug, I fushed the torque tube / shuttle case with several gallons of diesel every time I changed the shuttle oil (four times so far). I WOULD NOT start the tractor with the diesel in in there!!

HTH...
Dave

 

[a2btransport]

thank you

a2btransport,

I see your posts, you should able to see them as well. As far as flushing the shuttle case, after drilling the aforementioned drain/cleanout hole and tapping for the plug, I fushed the torque tube / shuttle case with several gallons of diesel every time I changed the shuttle oil (four times so far). I WOULD NOT start the tractor with the diesel in in there!!

HTH...
Dave[/QUOTE

 

[a2btransport]

thanks for that i pulled the scuck tube out hoping to find it all blocked up but previous owner has pulled the gauze off the end compleatly the tractor is slugish in foward and reverse so now i am spliting it to pull the clutch packs appart does any one know what to look for appart from worn out plates...... like oil gallairies etc.??? also looking at pulling out the converter and seeing whats inside anyone done that before ???? i will post pics up soon of the tractor comming appart and internal stuff aswell this fourm is so good im glad i found it while its appart i want to check everthing so any advice would be great thank you