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Case 580E problems

Ashton1012

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2024
Messages
16
Location
Washington
Hello!

I have been using my father in laws 1980’s case super E backhoe, and have identified a couple of problems im hoping to get some help with.

Yesterday when I was done using it I noticed the battery was very hot. Ground and power wire also very hot. Any ideas what would cause this? I’m concerned if I don’t address this the battery could explode. This was after probably 3 hours of work.

None of the gauges work- suggestions on a good starting point? I assume there must be a ground fault causing all to fail, or all the gauges just went out individually over the years. I’m going to be using this machine a lot over the next couple of months, I want to be sure I’m not overheating things.

The front loader clamshell is pretty beat up. I have been trying to find a replacement and can’t seem to find anything online.

I broke a small arm on the front loader. I have no idea what its function is, as it doesn’t seem to affect the usability at all. I will upload pictures soon, I’m new to these machines and couldn’t even take a wild guess as to what it’s called. It’s a small, maybe 3/4” round rod that has a fork on the end and a pin through it. The forks snapped.

I’m sure I’ll have more questions. Thanks for any help you can provide!!
 

Coy Lancaster

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2014
Messages
1,994
Location
Arkansas
Occupation
service tech
On your battery problem I'd check the ground cable where it attaches to the frame. Also check the alternator output. On your gauge problem there are two circuit breakers on the side of the engine block above the starter one of them is for the gauges and ROPS electrical. The rod you broke is for the return to dig function for loader bucket.
 

Ashton1012

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2024
Messages
16
Location
Washington
Thank you for the info!

I’ll start digging into the electrical. I have some automotive experience but have never worked on a machine like this. The braided ground wire is definitely old, broken in a few spots, that may be the cause right there. We also have a mysterious draw, if we don’t disconnect the battery it will die after a couple days of sitting. My father in law bought it a few years ago and doesn’t know anything about it other than basic use, so there are definitely some issues we need to work through together.

I thought of another question-
Is there a way to shift on the fly on these? The only way I’ve figured out how to shift is to stop, put it in neutral, and put it in whatever gear I want. Kind of defeats the purpose of changing gears, it’s hard to get going from a stop in fourth gear. Up until I got it, my FIL never even tried changing gears for fear something would break and he wouldn’t be able to use it. I discovered he’s been using it in 2nd gear this whole time. All gears function fine, I just can’t figure out if shifting on the fly is possible.
 

eKretz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2023
Messages
81
Location
NW Indiana
Is there a "dump" switch on the shifter for the clutch? On my Ford 555D there's a switch that interrupts the clutch so the gearbox can be shifted on the fly, I'm not that familiar with your particular machine. To be honest, I mostly stay in 2nd (4 speed) all the time myself. The exception being when I really need to push and then I'll drop down to 1st. 3rd and 4th I mostly only use at high speed on the road. I'd never try to start in 4th.
 

Coy Lancaster

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2014
Messages
1,994
Location
Arkansas
Occupation
service tech
There is a declutch button on the floor under brake pedals. It disengages the shuttle to shift on the go. You can only shift on the go between 2nd and 3rd and 4th. If button doesn’t work just put shuttle lever in neutral while moving then shift.
 

HarleyHappy

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2020
Messages
485
Location
So NH
Occupation
Welder/Mechanic
It should also have a button on top of the loader valve that’s a de clutch switch also.
My 580SE never had the floor switch that I could find, not even a hole in the original floor. How did you break the RTD arm?
 

Ashton1012

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2024
Messages
16
Location
Washington
Ok I do have what I thought is a clutch pedal on the floor, unfortunately it doesn’t work, I’ve tried it a couple times. Looks like I will have to explore that.
Here’s a pic of the broken arm, I’m 99% certain it’s the antirollback arm, and I broke the “Cleavus” the parts dealer told me lol. Should be easy to find a replacement.
I have no idea how I broke it. I’ve been clearing land in the Pacific Northwest, lots of tall brush and some trees. I’ve been putting her to work pretty hard. It’s also an old machine so probably already weakened previously, and I finished it off. IMG_4460.jpeg
 

Ashton1012

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2024
Messages
16
Location
Washington
Another update on the dash- I do get a red alternator light illuminates 100% of the time it’s on. I also briefly get a hydraulic filter light that goes away. So I am getting some power to the dash, just no gauges (rpm, temp sensors, hours, etc). Does that circuit breaker interrupt 100% of power to the dash if it fails?
 

Coy Lancaster

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2014
Messages
1,994
Location
Arkansas
Occupation
service tech
I will affect the gauges the tach operates off of the alternator directly. Could also affect the declutch button but can't remember for sure.
 

Coy Lancaster

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2014
Messages
1,994
Location
Arkansas
Occupation
service tech
Ok I do have what I thought is a clutch pedal on the floor, unfortunately it doesn’t work, I’ve tried it a couple times. Looks like I will have to explore that.
Here’s a pic of the broken arm, I’m 99% certain it’s the antirollback arm, and I broke the “Cleavus” the parts dealer told me lol. Should be easy to find a replacement.
I have no idea how I broke it. I’ve been clearing land in the Pacific Northwest, lots of tall brush and some trees. I’ve been putting her to work pretty hard. It’s also an old machine so probably already weakened previously, and I finished it off. View attachment 308375
You can replace the clevis end on that rod.
 

Ashton1012

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2024
Messages
16
Location
Washington
Ok I found a Clevis thank you!

Anyone recognize these wires? They were connected to anything
 

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Ashton1012

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2024
Messages
16
Location
Washington
Ok I got another question!

I found a clam bucket about 2 hours away for $2k. It came off a 1992 Case Super K. Reading online it looks like it would fit my super E. Can anyone confirm before I make the trip? I also got measurements from the guy, but won’t be able to get back out to the backhoe for a couple days.
 

Ashton1012

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2024
Messages
16
Location
Washington
I’m sorry but can you clarify- I can’t tell if you are saying nope, it won’t fit different (as in it fits ok) or nope, it won’t fit, it’s different
I ask because I’ve found a couple sites advertising a replacement loader, and in the details it shows it fits both a 580 e and 580 k
 

hessy

New Member
Joined
May 28, 2013
Messages
1
Location
victoria austrailia
Hello!

I have been using my father in laws 1980’s case super E backhoe, and have identified a couple of problems im hoping to get some help with.

Yesterday when I was done using it I noticed the battery was very hot. Ground and power wire also very hot. Any ideas what would cause this? I’m concerned if I don’t address this the battery could explode. This was after probably 3 hours of work.

None of the gauges work- suggestions on a good starting point? I assume there must be a ground fault causing all to fail, or all the gauges just went out individually over the years. I’m going to be using this machine a lot over the next couple of months, I want to be sure I’m not overheating things.

The front loader clamshell is pretty beat up. I have been trying to find a replacement and can’t seem to find anything online.

I broke a small arm on the front loader. I have no idea what its function is, as it doesn’t seem to affect the usability at all. I will upload pictures soon, I’m new to these machines and couldn’t even take a wild guess as to what it’s called. It’s a small, maybe 3/4” round rod that has a fork on the end and a pin through it. The forks snapped.

I’m sure I’ll have more questions. Thanks for any help you can provide!!
Check the power lead that runs over the top of the bellhousing, mine rubbed though on the the clamp, got real hot.
 

HarleyHappy

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2020
Messages
485
Location
So NH
Occupation
Welder/Mechanic
Nope, wont fit without some serious welding and cutting.
But 2500 is a super deal for a good clam bucket but then there’s the front hydraulic issue that can easily be another grand or more.:
 

crane operator

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
8,346
Location
sw missouri
You posted over in the "equipment wanted section", and just so you know, no one can reply in that section.

You posted in "equipment wanted" that you are missing a dipstick and a drain plug. The plug itself is likely just pipe thread plug, but of bigger concern is have you been using it all over with no fluid in the rear housing?

There's a area on the "machinery trader" website for dismantled machines. You can search by make and model, and some parts will interchange between models.

 

Ashton1012

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2024
Messages
16
Location
Washington
You posted over in the "equipment wanted section", and just so you know, no one can reply in that section.

You posted in "equipment wanted" that you are missing a dipstick and a drain plug. The plug itself is likely just pipe thread plug, but of bigger concern is have you been using it all over with no fluid in the rear housing?

There's a area on the "machinery trader" website for dismantled machines. You can search by make and model, and some parts will interchange between models.

Oof, I didn’t realize that!

Honestly I have no idea if it has fluid. When he dropped it off to me, he showed me how to check engine oil and hydraulic fluid. I have been reading the service manual and discovered there is A LOT more to it than just checking engine and hydraulic oil, I doubt he’s ever checked the shuttle level as there’s no dipstick. I’d be really surprised if it was low, I’ve put probably 20 hours on it in the last two months and it drives with no issue. I’m doing my best to go over it with a fine tooth comb and address any glaring issues I find. From what I read last night, that bell housing plug that’s missing is not required and many people opt to leave it off. I’d prefer to replace it, so dust and dirt can’t get in the bell housing.
 
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