CASE 680H Cranks but thats it...

[Shimmy1]

I think it would be ok to keep sluggin away at your machine in this thread OVERTORQUED. It is your thread. You have a quite a job on your hands in regards to flushing the contaminated oil out of the hydraulic system. If you want your pump and cylinders to last a long time you HAVE to have clean oil in the system. I have done the flush on my 680, and when I was done the system was full of pure clean oil. Follow my instructions in this thread and you can't go wrong.
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?14595-Quick-fluid-change-ques

Shimmy ; I didn't mean to sound like i am a know it all by posting this after you already addressed the issue. But I started searching 20 minutes ago for that old thread that i just posted a link to.

Yer fine, Tinkerer. I started typing a whole big spiel on it and after about 5 mins got tired of typing and abbreviated it. I figured someone had to have done a compete flush before too. What you did was same basic principle, and got done way faster than we did. I was going to put in my post that I thought it burned up the majority of a 55 gallon drum, but it WAS 25 yrs ago and I didn't want to "mis-remember". LOL.

 

[OVERTORQUED]

Is there a special tool to remove the nut on filter in hydraulic tank or do you just have to be a good contortionist?

 

[Tinkerer]

Is there a special tool to remove the nut on filter in hydraulic tank or do you just have to be a good contortionist?

No special tool needed. Drive a screwdriver thru it if you have room to get at it. You will need at least two new filters. Drain all of the oil out of the tank before doing anything. After running 3 or 4 gallons of new oil into the system, then put the first new filter on.
For safety you should park your machine with the front bucket resting on the ground.

 

[OVERTORQUED]

No special tool needed. Drive a screwdriver thru it if you have room to get at it. You will need at least two new filters. Drain all of the oil out of the tank before doing anything. After running 3 or 4 gallons of new oil into the system, then put the first new filter on.
For safety you should park your machine with the front bucket resting on the ground.

Finally got the filter off last night. Will get the 2 filters for sure. Lock is up on front bucket... We were only doing some checks and didn't plan on having to do all this, so bucket was up when we drained it. Thanks again for all the input.

 

[OVERTORQUED]

I think it would be ok to keep sluggin away at your machine in this thread OVERTORQUED. It is your thread. You have a quite a job on your hands in regards to flushing the contaminated oil out of the hydraulic system. If you want your pump and cylinders to last a long time you HAVE to have clean oil in the system. I have done the flush on my 680, and when I was done the system was full of pure clean oil. Follow my instructions in this thread and you can't go wrong.
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?14595-Quick-fluid-change-ques

Shimmy ; I didn't mean to sound like i am a know it all by posting this after you already addressed the issue. But I started searching 20 minutes ago for that old thread that i just posted a link to.

Holy %&#$%! You werent kidding when you said it was job! Think you forgot to mention that a person would probably smell like, taste like and be on a first name basis with some hydraulic fluid! Im just in hysterics this morning and glad there were no pictures. Worked just as you said... The tractor gods are smiling. Dont want to see and more hydraulic fluid for a minute! Thanks so much.

 

[OVERTORQUED]

I'm reading on the site here that replacing lines on the extendable are quite a big deal? No better shortcut? We seem to have a line that's been broken and capped off. Probably why it doesn't extend I would imagine. Need to replace that hose though. What are we looking at, removing the whole thing?

 

[OVERTORQUED]

Well that's not good.... It's pretty quiet here.

 

[Blueboy]

I don't know. My machine doesn't have that fancy attachment.
My guess would be start taking things off until you can get to the problem. Maybe some pics would help to see what you see.

 

[Shimmy1]

The 680E my dad ran years ago had steel lines running under the boom up to the stick hinge point, then hoses at the hinge, and steel lines inside the stick connecting to the cylinder. I remember helping pull the tube one time, but the details are a little fuzzy? I believe the inner tube and outer shell are pinned together along with the rod end of the cylinder inside? I know you have to drop the bucket, stretch the hoe out, and unhook the bucket cylinder and extendahoe cylinder hoses. Then, you need to pull the pin that connects the barrel of extendahoe cylinder to the main part of stick. If I'm not mistaken, you can look up from the underside of the hinge area and see the cylinder and hose connections. The pin will have snap-rings that hold it in place? Remove the retaining rings, remove the pin, and you should be able to pull the whole assembly out. Be careful, if that inner tube was neglected in regards to grease, it will be a steel sliver nightmare. Good luck.

 

[OVERTORQUED]

The 680E my dad ran years ago had steel lines running under the boom up to the stick hinge point, then hoses at the hinge, and steel lines inside the stick connecting to the cylinder. I remember helping pull the tube one time, but the details are a little fuzzy? I believe the inner tube and outer shell are pinned together along with the rod end of the cylinder inside? I know you have to drop the bucket, stretch the hoe out, and unhook the bucket cylinder and extendahoe cylinder hoses. Then, you need to pull the pin that connects the barrel of extendahoe cylinder to the main part of stick. If I'm not mistaken, you can look up from the underside of the hinge area and see the cylinder and hose connections. The pin will have snap-rings that hold it in place? Remove the retaining rings, remove the pin, and you should be able to pull the whole assembly out. Be careful, if that inner tube was neglected in regards to grease, it will be a steel sliver nightmare. Good luck.

Your memory serves you correctly... Only thing is we spent almost two days trying to beat that rusted pin out! Lots of PB and Wd40, a little heat and a 16 lb sledge. Got a few pics. Had 2 new hoses made up at Napa and should be good to start working tomorrow. I think I have experienced enough grease and hydraulic fluid to last me a lifetime. Thanks all.
Pesky stuck pin


Wasn't hard to pull ram out once pin was out

 

[Shimmy1]

View attachment 149757

You don't know how lucky you are that the front is open to pull the cylinder out. The 780C we had you had to pull the tube assembly out.

 

[Shimmy1]

If you're planning on using this hoe much at all, take a good look at this area. Chances are if it hasn't been repaired yet, it's either cracked or it will crack around the pin boss. Best way to fix is air-arc out the old weld, and re-weld it back. Then, have some 1/4 or 5/16" plate about 18" long bent into a channel that fits the boom tightly. Cut a hole so it fits around the pin boss, and weld it lengthwise top and bottom and around the pin boss. A diamond shaped fish plate works too, just depends on your preference.

 

[OVERTORQUED]

If you're planning on using this hoe much at all, take a good look at this area. Chances are if it hasn't been repaired yet, it's either cracked or it will crack around the pin boss. Best way to fix is air-arc out the old weld, and re-weld it back. Then, have some 1/4 or 5/16" plate about 18" long bent into a channel that fits the boom tightly. Cut a hole so it fits around the pin boss, and weld it lengthwise top and bottom and around the pin boss. A diamond shaped fish plate works too, just depends on your preference.

Very good to know... I will definitely give it a close inspection. Just finished putting everything back together and seems to work great. Couldn't have done it with out all of you alls knowledge. Awesome site.

 

[OVERTORQUED]

Just wanted to give a little update on the 'ol case 680H. Thanks to all ya all's help, this thing is still running like a BOH! Its a beast and just keeps on going. Thanks to this site and all the awesome people here once again!

 

[Blueboy]

Glad to hear you got that machine running.
It's been an ongoing project since I bought mine, and it's good to know the money I spent is well worth it.
Whether it's your machine or not (not as in this case) it's a good feeling of accomplishment after all the bloody knuckles and headaches you had pays off when it’s done.

 

[OVERTORQUED]

Glad to hear you got that machine running.
It's been an ongoing project since I bought mine, and it's good to know the money I spent is well worth it.
Whether it's your machine or not (not as in this case) it's a good feeling of accomplishment after all the bloody knuckles and headaches you had pays off when it’s done.

Your not lyin for sure... They are almost like little children in a way. Always happy to hear that they are still goin with no problems.

 

[OVERTORQUED]

The old beast is still goin strong...

 

[OVERTORQUED]

Just had to do an update... Gotta love this 'ol asphalt heifer'. May have been made for the pavement but it always comes thru no matter what. I am so glad i found this site- you all helped me out tremendously!

 

[Coy Lancaster]

Which engine is in this machine, is it the 336?

 

[OVERTORQUED]

Which engine is in this machine, is it the 336?

Not totally positive but I think its a 336B, does that sound right?