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Case 850K Won't move

Joelshirn136

New Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2017
Messages
3
Location
Williamsport PA
Hi i have a 2005 Case 850K series 2. 2700hrs. It started getting finicky last year on me. Machine fires up fine, put the lock levers down, move the joystick forward or back and it blinks F or R. If you sit and screw with it for 5-10 mins it will come out of park and work fine until you shut down and start back up. Also every once and a while you can be tracking along and the machine will just stop and throw you almost out of the seat if you do not have the seat belt on. Currently it is showing no codes. I replaced the two filters near the hyd tank today and no change. The machine is an open cab. PLEASE HELP! thank you in advance!
 

Dickjr.

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Mar 24, 2011
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1,484
Location
Kentucky
There are several threads here about this problem , you can do a search and might find the answer. There are a couple guys on here that are excellent on Case machines maybe they will chime in later today.
 

GaryHoff

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Feb 25, 2009
Messages
810
Location
Alberta, Canada
Occupation
Heavey Equipment Mechanic
Welcome to HEF Joelshirn136,

I'm hoping your have found a few posts on this issue, and tried the basic checks first,
1. Check the fuses and relays. Remove them all and check the contacts for corrosion. Replace all the fuses with new ones.
2. Since you do not have any fault codes, it is likely that you just have a bad relay or corrosion in the fuse/relay panel.

Are the proximity switch lights on? (for the safety levers)
Does the machine start with the safety levers down?

The safety circuit goes through multiple relays, in series.
Start the machine, and jump the relays one at a time,

1. safety relay, jump pins 87 to 30
2. neutral ok relay, jump pins 30 to 87a
3. microprocessor relay, jump pins 30 to 87
 
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atc007

Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2016
Messages
21
Location
Pa
Joelshirn136, did you get her fixed?? We are 45 minutes from each other! I have a 850K with issues also. Today,she starts and idles like a kitten ,but won't rev up. I'm here trying to find how to check codes. I know it's simple,but cannot remeber how. You are a saint Gary. You truly are. You have saved people THOUSANDS of dollars through the years.
 

Coy Lancaster

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Dec 19, 2014
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2,020
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Arkansas
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service tech
On your 850K it sounds like the park brake is not working correctly. check your park brake relay and the fuse also check the connector for the park brake valve which is a silver looking valve next to cab lift cylinder.
 

Coy Lancaster

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Dec 19, 2014
Messages
2,020
Location
Arkansas
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service tech
Joelshirn136, did you get her fixed?? We are 45 minutes from each other! I have a 850K with issues also. Today,she starts and idles like a kitten ,but won't rev up. I'm here trying to find how to check codes. I know it's simple,but cannot remeber how. You are a saint Gary. You truly are. You have saved people THOUSANDS of dollars through the years.
If
On your 850K it sounds like the park brake is not working correctly. check your park brake relay and the fuse also check the connector for the park brake valve which is a silver looking valve next to cab lift cylinder.
Joelshirn136, did you get her fixed?? We are 45 minutes from each other! I have a 850K with issues also. Today,she starts and idles like a kitten ,but won't rev up. I'm here trying to find how to check codes. I know it's simple,but cannot remeber how. You are a saint Gary. You truly are. You have saved people THOUSANDS of dollars through the years.
It sounds like your throttle potensometer (not spelled right) but there is a passive switch on the pedal. The operators manual should tell you how to get to your fault codes if not call your dealer maybe he can help. It's been so long sense I've tried to look up fault code on the K series I've forgotten how.
 

atc007

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Joined
Jun 19, 2016
Messages
21
Location
Pa
Appreciate it Coy! My dealer emailed me a manual. I have zero codes,if I'm doing it correctly. It is saying no faults. 1200 RPM is as hi as she will rev. I seem to have several electrical issues ATM :( Gonna drain my fuel filters,but 99.999% sure I have zero water anywhere. It sat a year and a half,and I drained the water trap off the tank ,by the batteries,nice red fuel coming out the bottom of the tank. All my wiring appears new, 1734 hours on my unit Open station. Will update when I get time to get back at her. I care for 4 disabled family members in my home. Time is short and grass is growing lol.
 

GaryHoff

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Joined
Feb 25, 2009
Messages
810
Location
Alberta, Canada
Occupation
Heavey Equipment Mechanic
I guess better late than never :rolleyes:

I'm assuming you have a 850K series 1

850K was all mechanical linkages to the injection pump. Common issue for not being able to rev the engine was bent linkages. Usually from someone forgetting to disconnect the throttle linkage when tilting the cab. Linkages could also just be seized up from having the machine sitting for a long time.

Best of luck
 

atc007

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Joined
Jun 19, 2016
Messages
21
Location
Pa
Series 2. Decelerator was hanging up.From sitting. She revs to almost 2100 now. Still the same problem, will not get up to speed. Shiny fresh fuses, wiring,soft and as new,,2 new batteries.Zero codes. I've ran it at least a half hour,not one code. Everything seems to work perfect, but it will not gain speed. I started a different thread.Speed is set to 90% in my display. At 20 it starts crawling, increases with every single click of the rabbit,right up to 90,topping out at maybe 3/4 MPH :( . Also backs off speed perfectly with the turtle.My current question is, can the dealer program my joystick without the machine if I take it in? Trying to save every buck I can. I don't really know what else to do with no codes.
 

Coy Lancaster

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I don't believe the joystick is the problem. I think there is a communication problem with the dash and the controller. The dealer cannot check just the joystick, unless things have changed sense I worked for Case. I know it will cost some money but it's time for dealer to come out and connect laptop up and see what's going on. The only other thing I would check is the linkage going to the hydrostat pumps.
 

atc007

Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2016
Messages
21
Location
Pa
Appreciate it Coy. I told the dealer to come out 2 weeks ago,and he talked me out of it. Said it would most likely be running back and forth with potentiometers,relays,,etc and cost me a fortune. Wants me to take it in. I'll check the hydros. Once I find them and the linkages lol. Thanx
 

GaryHoff

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Feb 25, 2009
Messages
810
Location
Alberta, Canada
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Heavey Equipment Mechanic
Just confirming your issue,
1.Your max travel speed is relatively low, as compared to last year or previous experience.
2. The travel speed of the machine will increase and decrease with the rabbit and turtle buttons on the joystick.
3. The travel speed % properly shows in the cluster.
4. Your issue is present in forwards and reverse.

Assuming the above statements are correct, it sounds like your brake potentiometer is likely your issue.
You will not get a fault code if the failure is within the accepted voltage range. The potentiometer often sticks.
Check the brake potentiometer output. The brake potentiometer output (number 521 wire) must be set so that the voltage is 2.75 volts to 4.5 volts with the pedal released (in the full UP position), and 0.5 to 2.25 volts with the pedal fully depressed.
After you have done this, perform a calibration in the dash.

Assuming my statements are correct, your joystick is not your issue.
Joysticks can not be tested by the dealer, unless they have a machine in the yard to plug it into.
There is no linkages to the hydrostatic pumps, as they are controlled by solenoids.
I don't believe the dealer will be of much value at this point, as you can test everything you need to through the cluster.
 
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GaryHoff

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Feb 25, 2009
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810
Location
Alberta, Canada
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Heavey Equipment Mechanic
Case 850K Calibration Procedure

Push and hold the bump up and bump down buttons on the directional control handle.
Start the engine and continue to hold the bump up and bump down buttons until 'HP XX-XX' is displayed. Release the buttons.
If needed, use the bump up/down buttons to select the machine horsepower rating that is being calibrated, 70-80 (650K / D75), 80-90 (750K / D85), or 90-100 (850K / D95).
The improper horsepower range selection will cause the calibration to be incorrect and machine functions will be impaired.
When the machine being calibrated is properly displayed, press both the bump up and bump down buttons for one second and release, the instrument cluster should read 'CAL BRAKE' or 'CAL BRK'. Smoothly move the brake pedal from release to applied position two-to-four times.
Press both the bump up and bump down buttons for one second and release, the instrument cluster should read 'CAL THROTTLE' or 'CAL FTR'. Move the hand throttle to high idle. Move the decelerator pedal from high to low idle, two to three times to set the end points.
During operation if the instrument cluster reads out 'ERR RANGE', one or both minimum/maximum values are out of range or one or both potentiometers were not moved in the last five seconds since the start of calibration mode.
With the decelerator pedal fully depressed to the low idle position, press both the bump up and bump down buttons for one second and release, the instrument cluster will read 'CAL INC'. Move the decelerator pedal from low idle to high idle smoothly and steadily over a period of 15 to 20 seconds one time to set the engine calibration curve. The instrument cluster will then read 'CAL DONE'. Stop and restart the engine, values are stored in internal memory.
During this operation if the instrument cluster reads out 'ERR SPEED', the throttle was not in the low idle position at the start of 'CAL INC', the engine is not running, or no engine speed signal is being received.

If at any time during calibration the instrument cluster reads 'CAL FAIL', stop the engine and restart the procedure.
 

atc007

Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2016
Messages
21
Location
Pa
Just confirming your issue,
1.Your max travel speed is relatively low, as compared to last year or previous experience.
2. The travel speed of the machine will increase and decrease with the rabbit and turtle buttons on the joystick.
3. The travel speed % properly shows in the cluster.
4. Your issue is present in forwards and reverse.

Assuming the above statements are correct, it sounds like your brake potentiometer is likely your issue.
You will not get a fault code if the failure is within the accepted voltage range. The potentiometer often sticks.
Check the brake potentiometer output. The brake potentiometer output (number 521 wire) must be set so that the voltage is 2.75 volts to 4.5 volts with the pedal released (in the full UP position), and 0.5 to 2.25 volts with the pedal fully depressed.
After you have done this, perform a calibration in the dash.

Assuming my statements are correct, your joystick is not your issue.
Joysticks can not be tested by the dealer, unless they have a machine in the yard to plug it into.
There is no linkages to the hydrostatic pumps, as they are controlled by solenoids.
I don't believe the dealer will be of much value at this point, as you can test everything you need to through the cluster.
100% correct Gary. I don't know how to find wire 521,but I will research that. I only have 3 pages of the manual. For the dash. After my decelerator sticking,from sitting. I must suspect my brake is also? I never used it more than twice to simply see if it worked. 2-3 years ago. I bet it is "hanging up" I know it moves,but freely,and perfectly. Probably not. Before I do anything else,I am also gonna make sure I am getting all the RPM's I should be,consistantly. 2080 seems to be max. I will do some research on what RPM she should rev too and play with the linkage on teh pump to make sure she is revving all the way. 2100 is max,ATM. I cannot thank you enough for jumping in here for me. Thank you.
 

GaryHoff

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Feb 25, 2009
Messages
810
Location
Alberta, Canada
Occupation
Heavey Equipment Mechanic
3 pin deutsch.jpg


The potentiometer connectors should be a 3 pin deutsch if I remember correctly. Letters for the pin locations are sometimes on the connector. The wire numbers are not likely not visible. Just use a small cotter pin or paper clip to back probe the connector when checking voltages.

I don't believe your throttle potentiometer is your issue, but you may have to adjust it anyways in order to complete the calibration.
 
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Coy Lancaster

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Dec 19, 2014
Messages
2,020
Location
Arkansas
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Appreciate it Coy. I told the dealer to come out 2 weeks ago,and he talked me out of it. Said it would most likely be running back and forth with potentiometers,relays,,etc and cost me a fortune. Wants me to take it in. I'll check the hydros. Once I find them and the linkages lol. Thanx
The hydros are under the cab you will have to raise the ROPS, be sure and disconnect all linkage and brush guard before raising ROPS.
 

atc007

Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2016
Messages
21
Location
Pa
Ok Gary. Just climbed out of her. Says 90-100 on it's own. So, that is correct, but upon selecting the rabbit/turtle. It says CAL POT. I went ahead and tried 5 or 6 times with the brake,knowing it is supposed to say CAL BRK. Everytime it timed out and said CAL FAIL. On a side note. She revs to 2050 on the hand throttle. 2150 if I do it at the pump,or nudge the decelerator backwards ever so slightly with my foot. Brake and decelerator appear to free as a whistle. I doused them with Kroil anyhow. Everything is nice and lubed. What should my max RPM be adjusted to,and where do I go from here with CAL POT? Thanx again.
 
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