Cat 262b auxillary issue

[Joeyv1372]

Just recently bought an 07 cat 262b skid steer off someone on facebook. Has a 4n1 bucket on it but when trying to test out the aux buttons on the joysticks nothing happened. Guy claimed he thinks it's just a bad joystick switch. Bought it anyway but trying to troubleshoot it myself. When I took the panel under the seat off to check the fuses I noticed there is only one fuse block. Just looking at the picture diagram on the plate and doing some vague internet research it seems to me like there should be a second fuse block there. Sorry if it's a dumb question but not super skid steer knowledgeable. Isnt there supposed to be a second block there that makes the aux work or no? If not does anyone have some troubleshooting input on what to check over? What all aux connections there are and where at? I have a schematic and am a decent mechanic but am no electrician. Under the floor plate both ecms are there but under the seat ustst one fuse box. Is that second fuse box supposed to be there for the a1 and a2 to work or am I missing something else? Is it possible it was taken out before selling it? I know cat parts are pricey. Seemed like an honest guy at the time and but you never know anymore. Does anybody got some knowledge to throw at me?

 

[Nige]

Question - machine Serial Number..?
Also what Cat document reference electrical schematic are you using..?
With the S/N and that reference I could at least tell you if you're using the correct schematic or not.
It would also enable an answer to be provided regarding your fuse panel question.

Do you have (or can you get hold of) a digital multimeter and are you familiar/competent with the process of measuring continuity in a circuit.?

 

[Joeyv1372]

S/n is PDT04800 and the schem Im looking at is 216-6423. And I do have one and somewhat yes. Also looking at the joysticks they don't look to be original to me. The one you use in your left hand is gray and has two buttons vertical and a trigger. Trigger is stuck. The one you use in your right hand is black and has two side by side buttons. I tested the two buttons with a test light on the right and both button switches are working. Where do I go from there? Is there supposed to be a roller button to open and close the grapple part of bucket of how does that work?

 

[Nige]

You have the correct schematic for your S/N. At least that answers that question.

Next question - do you have an operator manual for it so that you understand the the functioning of the various controls.? The Cat Publication reference is SEBU7731.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CATERPILLA...Owner-Operator-Operation-MANUAL-/202525427640
Be aware that you can biuy a brand-new on in pdf form for $49, or $57 in paper form.

Regarding your question about the handles maybe being non-OEM. Can you take some photos and post them up here so we can all have a look.?

 

[Joeyv1372]

Lefthand

 

[Joeyv1372]

And right-hand. I do have the original owners manual I found in the cab. But since they cover multiple model option controls and such, things are hard to pinpoint. Reading the book it seems just pushing a1 would open the grabble bucket and a2 to close. If I could find out the all the original options and stuff off the s/n possibly having the correct joysticks would make it work? Also the machine has a few other issues, fuel gauge not working being one of them. Maybe a correlated issue? And the electrical connection for the worktool attachment I can't seem to locate. Going off the schem it looks to me like it would be part of that second fuse box and some harness assemblies that aren't there. Again making me think there mightve been some parts taken and swapped after finding a number of little issues that I wasn't informed of starting to surface but Im just not familiar enough to know..

 

[Joeyv1372]

I forgot to add that there is a hydraulic light on the dash that's been on since I bought it. Hydraulic filter not functioning correctly indicator light. Assuming it's just way overdue to be changed. That and the autolevel box has a leak and needs addressing, as it also doesn't work. Solenoid looks cooked. I haven't been operating the machine, just trying to figure out all the bugs before draining and replacing all the hydraulic fluid and rebuilding the leveler box successfully I'm hoping. Like I said the machine has a handful of issues.. could the fault light be stopping the auxillary function? It's certainly a project machine, but all I can afford in hopes to fix.

 

[Cmark]

I would say both joysticks are genuine Cat. The grey one will be a later replacement for the original black one.
The stickers next to the controls are a reliable reference for what options the machine was shipped with and what the various switches should do.

 

[Nige]

And the electrical connection for the worktool attachment I can't seem to locate.

Cherry-picking your post a bit here.
Your machine was not built with a Work Tool attachment (it's an option) so you will be missing the 2nd fuse box and the all the associated harnesses.

Regarding the press-button switches on the joysticks the easiest way I can suggest to test them is to disconnect the wiring harness right below the joystick, get the probes of your DMM on the appropriate pins, then press the button and observe if the circuit goes from open to closed and back again as you operate the switch.

 

[Joeyv1372]

Ok that makes sense then. And I have done that, and the switches do go from open to close. Where do I go from there?

 

[Nige]

Ok that makes sense then. And I have done that, and the switches do go from open to close. Where do I go from there?

I would trace the wires backwards on the schematic from the connectors under the joysticks to the next main harness connector - if there is one between and the ECM. Open up that connector, or the ECM connector if there isn't another one, and check that the circuit is behaving in the same way as it does at the joysticks.

if you have not had the cab floor up yet to get at the ECM you might be in for a bit of a shock. It will probably be buried in mud, and if it is your electrical contact issues might well be in the ECM connector. At least I hope so.

 

[Joeyv1372]

I do have it all opened up and there is lots of dirt caked on everything. I will clean it and try to check there. Hopefully it's something simple. I appreciate all the knowledge. I noticed your profile says your from granville? Is that granville ohio by chance? Lol

 

[Nige]

I do have it all opened up and there is lots of dirt caked on everything. I will clean it and try to check there.

Go to your local parts house and buy a case of aerosol electrical contact cleaner. You'll need it before you're done....

 

[Joeyv1372]

So I've come to the conclusion that the joysticks on my machine are "cat oem" but they are not the original ones. The previous owner worked on it themselves as opposed to taking it to a dealership for servicing. That being said I don't think they were ever calibrated through the cat et when they were replaced. All the wiring and everything seems to be correct but the buttons won't work unless theyve been hooked up to the et and recalibrated to the ecm right?

 

[Nige]

.....That being said I don't think they were ever calibrated through the cat et when they were replaced. All the wiring and everything seems to be correct but the buttons won't work unless theyve been hooked up to the et and recalibrated to the ecm right?

I'm not sure the buttons require calibration. They are a simple On/Off mechaniism. Are the switches under the buttons opening & closing correctly when you press & release them.?

To my knowledge the only thing that should be calibrated when a joystick is replaced are the position sensors whose signals change when the joystick is moved forward/back or left/right.

 

[Joeyv1372]

Yes they are

 

[dieseldog5.9]

I just changed handles and no calibration was needed.

 

[dieseldog5.9]

But the buttons are not simple on/off buttons there is a circuit board in the handle.

 

[Joeyv1372]

I just got the special probes in to test the harnesses so I'm going to do that. But I went through all the grounds and redid them all so they should be good there. But even the horn button doesn't make the horn work. And that's a pretty simple a to b circuit I'd think. Like I said they're definitely not the original ones to the machine and all the buttons not doing anything just seems odd. Which is why I thought maybe they did have to be messed with through the computer

 

[dieseldog5.9]

I had an old handle laying around the shop and went to take a picture for you but apparently I threw it out when I cleaned the shop last week. The buttons are variable displacement, and the circuit board in the handles, has to do with the variable potentiometer to control the valve and they wear out. I went through what you are doing, finally decided to change the handle, after I ripped the old handle apart to see what was inside, so at that point it was junk.