CAT 272D XHP No Lights or power to monitor, no crank

[Jrod25]

Hi, I have a 2013 CAT 272D XHP that I am having an issue with. When I turn the key on, the following will turn on - head lights, ac/heater fan, display light one bucket leveler, windshield washer. But display monitor will not come on, also if I turn key to try and start, it will not try to start, I don't even hear any relay clicking of anything when I do that. It has a bank new battery. I have check the following. ground strap under cab, and positive and negative cables at the battery and starter. I see it have two control module apparently, one on the engine (engine control) and one under the cab (machine control). The machine control is silver and not made of plastic, does it need dissembling to look for loose solder connections? Would you please help me out with this? I have been looking online for a service/troubleshooting manual and so far all I found was a similar schematic, and operators manual.

 

[Nige]

Can you post a machine Serial Number please. You will need an electrical schematic to assist you in tracing power.

 

[Jrod25]

Are you referring to this ID #

 

[Jrod25]

Can you post a machine Serial Number please. You will need an electrical schematic to assist you in tracing power.

Oh machine serial number, sry about that, I will look tomorrow

 

[Nige]

Are you referring to this ID #

Yes I am. The last 8 characters of that PIN are the machine Serial Number.
Check your message inbox for an electrical schematic.

 

[Nige]

If the monitor is not powering up I would suggest you straight to the connector on the back side of it, and using the electrical schematic check powers & grounds both with the key in the OFF and the ON position.

Pin 1 is constant battery+ provided the master switch (if equipped) is ON.
Pin 8 should be energized when the key switch is turned to the ON position.
Check both the above to Pin 2 - Ground.

 

[Jrod25]

Oh machine serial number, sry about that, I will look tomorrow

So I tested pin 1 and its 12V and pin 8 is 12v when key is on, so its good there just no display, I tested the CAN wires on Connectors A and B unplugged along with battery disconnected, pins 25 and 26 on the A connector reads 62.8 ohms, and pings 23 and 31 on the B connector reads 73.4 ohms, so I think that means that is good, checking all four of those pins to ground for ohms the all read between 15M ohms to 17M ohms, so that check good is my conclusion??

 

[Jrod25]

I did check the CMM as well for 12V on pins 84 and 85 on the A side as wells as grounds 81 and 82, all looked good, with key on pin 69 on the A did have 12V.

 

[Nige]

I think your Monitor panel has died.

Really need an oscilloscope to test the CAN signal. It’s the only way I know of.

 

[Cmark]

Just to emphasise what Nige wrote in post #5.
Are you back-probing the plug with it connected to the display, power on, when checking for power and ground? Front-probing for battery voltage with a DMM with the display unplugged doesn't necessarily mean you have enough current to power the display.

 

[Jrod25]

Just to emphasise what Nige wrote in post #5.
Are you back-probing the plug with it connected to the display, power on, when checking for power and ground? Front-probing for battery voltage with a DMM with the display unplugged doesn't necessarily mean you have enough current to power the display.

Yes, on the Display, I tested both with back probing and disconnected plug, and both had power/ground.

 

[Jrod25]

I think I have it down to this part as the most obvious, but I cannot this part on the schematic, does anyone have any idea, or what the proper name is and an after market part that will work?

 

[Nige]

I can see the last few digits of the Part number "080" so if the complete Part Number on the bottom line is 117-9080 then it is the relay for the air intake heater. Cat refer to it as a "Magnetic Switch Group".

Oh, and make sure you're sitting down when you ask the price.. They are NOT cheap........

 

[Simon C]

That could easily be retrofited with a Cole Hersee Relay that is high amps capable. They have a web site that lists them all. Worth less than around $50 US and will do the same job. I did this to a machine years ago, and it ran and started fine with it. It was at a mine in the far north that couldn't wait a few days to get one. Might have to make a plate to help mount, but will work.
Simon C

 

[Simon C]

Cole Hersee 24059 is one that I have used before. If unsure how to wire I will explain.
Simon C

 

[Jrod25]

it looks like is switching 12v battery line (2 huge wires on top) and small two black lines are for 12v coil , but not sure of the circuit it drives

 

[Simon C]

it looks like is switching 12v battery line (2 huge wires on top) and small two black lines are for 12v coil , but not sure of the circuit it drives

Nige said it is to send power to the Air Intake Heater to help with fuel air mixture ignition. Those grid heaters draw a fair amount of amps, there is more than 1 type on the Cole Hersee site. They vary in price. If the Cat one is close in price, then go that route, but if 2 or more times the price then there is options. I always have a 12 volt and a 24 Volt one at home for the next job. Have used them to replace all kinds of relays,.
Simon C

 

[Simon C]

I will say that the old one was quite rusted on the big cable stud hook up. Let us know what you end up doing.
Simon C

 

[Jrod25]

There are two of them that I know of, I was trying to determine the circuit, this one is on the firewall on the right side by the starter. And another one is on the firewall under the cab behind where the seat is.

 

[Simon C]

Don't have that exact schematic. Have other D series schematics, but not yours.
Simon C