Cat 287B Both tracks lock up.. No hydraulic functions.

[Nige]

RENR6419-06 September 2014... This is the one you sent me awhile back..

Just checking.......
I'll see if I can find a procedure for your Serial Number.
TBH if you have had signifcant water ingress into the ECMs they are probably toast.

 

[Lockjz]

Appreciate the help.. The interlock ECM had significant GFS build up on the ciruit board and minimal amount of moisture on it. The other ECM which i beleive is for work tools had alot of water in it, enough that when i opened it and turned it over it poured out water. Both of these ECM's are around $4500 each and i dont think ill get much for core credit due to the damage on the housings. I looked into having them rebuilt but only found one company out of florida ( ECM engeneering usa) They want full payment in advance to do it which sounds a little off to me. If anyone on here has any info on here about them or a similar company that rebuilds ECM's that would be great.

Thanks

 

[Lockjz]

Update here..

Using the troubleshooting Parking Brake Indicator and Armrest Indicator Are Flashing (RENR6417-01)
Both the parking brake light and armrest lights are flashing. Test step 2 checks good with OL on the meter From Pin 3-pin68 on the ECM connector.
Test step 6- Not good.. Continuity from Pin 24 (work tool pilot output) to pin 29 (Hydro pilot output) 17.5 Ohms. Should be OL

When the Hydro solenoid is unplugged it goes to OL from pins 24-29 on the ECM connector.

With just the work tool solenoid unplugged i have 65 ohms from pins 24-29 on the ECM connector.

Unplugged both the work tool and Hydro solenoids and checked continuity from one to the other..

Hydro pilot Pin2 (output B+ from ECM) to Work tool Pin 1 (Common Ground) = 55ohms

Looks to me as the B+ pin1 wire for the work tool solenoid is shorted to the Pin2 common ground for the hydro solenoid somewhere in the harness.

I will verify my measurements tonight and start looking for the short in the harness.

More updates to come.

 

[Lockjz]

Update: The troubleshooting Used to find the issue above was incorrect. Step 6 is not correct when compared to the Electrical shematic. I double checked all my wiring resistances and Ohmed out all the solenoids again. Checks good.

I ended up sending Both my Interlock and AUX ecm's to GO ECM repair in Texas. They called today and said Both Ecm's are non repairable due to water damage. They also sell Refurbished ecm's and have them in stock however when i asked about them needing additional programming they stated they will need to be programmed to the machine and they could not connect to my old ecm's to transfer anything over due to the damage.. Nige i know in previous posts you stated that the Interlock ECM was Plug and play.. If this is true im not sure what they would need programmed. If they werent half the price of going to CAT i wouldnt consider it.

Any advice on programming is apprciated.

 

[Nige]

Nige i know in previous posts you stated that the Interlock ECM was Plug and play.. If this is true im not sure what they would need programmed.

It is. See my reply in Post #85 of this THREAD. If you check the electrical schematic you will see that the Datalink wiring in the machine harness does not connect to the 154-4233 Interlock ECM - therefore it is not externally flashable.

The AUX HYD ECM is a different kettle of prawns altogether. 216-0568 is the Part Number of a blank unpgrammed ECM. The Datalink wires DO CONNECT to this ECM and it is externally programmable. The software flash file P/N is a 284-3058. Also available in the Cat system is a 284-3059 Part Number which is a 216-0658 ECM pre-flashed with the 284-3059 software.

I can't see a Cat dealer Service Dept being too keen to program an aftermarket ECM with Cat software, unless of course it is such a good copy that it appears as though it is in fact a Cat ECM......

 

[Lockjz]

Thanks Nige, Just to confirm what i am seeing in the electrical schematic the AUX ECM would have nothing to do with movement of the machine/ lift arm fuctions or parking brake? I am thinking if i can start with replacing just the interlock ecm first and get this machine moving and able to use for now.

 

[Nige]

Just to confirm what i am seeing in the electrical schematic the AUX ECM would have nothing to do with movement of the machine/ lift arm fuctions or parking brake?

Look closer at the schematic. For example the armrest switch is an input to the AUX HYD ECM, as are the parking brake and 2-speed switches. The title of the ECM is somewhat of a misnomer, because if it is the AUX ECM, where is the primary one.? That's right, there isn't one......

The 216-0658 ECM has inputs/outputs to pretty much all functions related to the hystat and implement systems.

 

[Lockjz]

Update: Ordered Both refurbished ECM's from GO ECM and took them over to my local CAT dealer. They programmed the AUX ECM and verified the interlock is Plug and play and ready to go. Installed both ECM's and machine is now working as it should. The only issue i have now is the parking brake light in the cab is not illuminating however the parking brake is working and releasing normally. Glad to get this machine back working again and thanks for all the help guys..

 

[Nige]

Ordered Both refurbished ECM's from GO ECM and took them over to my local CAT dealer. They programmed the AUX ECM

Nice to hear a dealer being supportive when the part in question wasn't bought from them. I'm not going to ask what they charged you..........

verified the interlock is Plug and play and ready to go

Good of them, but we already knew that.

Only thing I can suggest to prevent a repeat is keep the area around both those ECMs dry and SUPER clean in future.

 

[AustinC]

Update: The troubleshooting Used to find the issue above was incorrect. Step 6 is not correct when compared to the Electrical shematic. I double checked all my wiring resistances and Ohmed out all the solenoids again. Checks good.

I ended up sending Both my Interlock and AUX ecm's to GO ECM repair in Texas. They called today and said Both Ecm's are non repairable due to water damage. They also sell Refurbished ecm's and have them in stock however when i asked about them needing additional programming they stated they will need to be programmed to the machine and they could not connect to my old ecm's to transfer anything over due to the damage.. Nige i know in previous posts you stated that the Interlock ECM was Plug and play.. If this is true im not sure what they would need programmed. If they werent half the price of going to CAT i wouldnt consider it.

Any advice on programming is apprciated.

Did GO ECM charge you to verify if your Ecm's were repairable?

 

[Lockjz]

I believe i just paid for shipping them there.

 

[Curt a]

Hello looking for some help I’m having pretty much the same issues as shown above by lockjz. The machine I am working on is a 287b ser.zsa00615. i am working on this machine for a friend, originally he was using it and lost all use of the work equipment but it would still travel.I lifted the cab and gave 12v to pilot solenoid to get the arms back down to the ground. So far I have cleaned the cab ground straps, checked all fuses,verified that the alternator is charging, checked operation of the door switch and lap bar (the seat sensor has been bypassed), checked operation of park brake switch and work equipment lockout switch as well. found a few wires with rodent damage in the LH joystick harness and one on the machine side of the joystick harness. repaired machine side and have a joystick harness on order. I also found one chewed wire (following diagram RENR6419-06) my chewed wire was h416-a6 gn-18 to sol xmsn 195-9700 repaired that wire.looked over the rest of the harness and found nothing visibly damaged. we were able to get the machine moved to a workable spot to work on I replaced both solenoids on the rh and lh joysticks with cat pn 195-9700 with no results. The machine will now only operate for about 20 minutes now and then lockout and lose work equipment and travel. I have a flickering orange Icon on the rh indicator panel #8 on the above shown drawing I also will add I have no park brake indicator light on the lh panel but it does illuminate during the bulb check at key on. I will follow the troubleshooting instructions for park brake flashing and lap bar flashing. I also will add sometimes during operation the park brake switch, lap bar and work equipment lock switch do nothing as in I can drive and use the arms with the lap bar up operate the arms with the switch locked or press the park brake and continue to travel once the machine locks out it will not do anything even after restarting so I feel I have a connection somewhere that is heating up and breaking contact nothing seems to influence the issue like slamming the bucket or uphill or downhill travel just time running about 20-25 minutes each time. Any help Is appreciated

 

[Nige]

After reading your story above it sounds to me as though you could potentially be fighting either a wiring or connection issue, could be caused by corrosion/green crusties, could be heat. It could also be internal in an electronic control.

One thing you do not mention is the condition of the Interlock Control and the AUX ECM. Both of them are located under the floor and usually suffer badly from exposure to dirt and/or water ingress. How about some photos.?

Your flashing light #8 is the Interlock Override warning light. It should either be OFF or ON, no fliickering allowed. Therein lies your problem I think. The input to the AUX ECM from the Implement Lockout Switch is wire G982 Pink. Back to the paragraph above though, and the problem could be INSIDE the AUX ECM. It might pay you to focus on the internal condition of that component.

A suggestion for testing continuity of wires, especially in light of the fact that you have already found evidence of rodent damage. A wire can be almost cut through and pass a continuity test using a multimeter but be totally unable to pass any sort of meaningful current. In these case I always suggest disconnecting both ends of the wire you want to test and connect one end of it to machine frame ground. Then use a fused 5A test light connected to Batt+ to apply power to the other end of the wire. If it will pass a current of 5A then I would say that you can call it good with a high degree of confidence.

 

[Curt a]

 

[Curt a]

I did run thru the troubleshooting in the above posts and record what I found not entirely sure I did it correctly. i also removed the plugs on each ecm both plugs looked clean and dry

 

[Nige]

I see a fair amount of crud around the ECMs in your photos. Is it possible that water has penetrated either one or the other of them.? Also gave a close look for Part Numbers to see if they are genuine or not.

 

[Curt a]

 

[Curt a]

 

[Curt a]

 

[Nige]

The interior of the ECM looks a little second hand. Actually a lot, which could be as a result of the hole in the casing.

I never asked this earlier but when you start the engine does the radiator cooling fan start spinning immediately.?