Cat d4 basket case

[yrens]

Fantastic update
Great news today. With the pony motor being the weak link prior to today, I’m happy to say it appears to be running better then ever with a new cap, condenser. But it wasn’t fixed until I installed the new points that did the trick. All this time it acted like a fuel/air issue prior to no spark. But it turns out to be the ignition that must have slowly going that created the head scratcher until finally it went.So I immediately started with engaging the starting pinion and worked on getting air out of the fuel system. I got close with some black smoke but no cigar just yetI’ll try and post a clip, but I have a big question?? I had one fuel line from the injection pump to injector that was leaking at the nut. Turns out it appears to be missing a spacer which looks to be part of the fuel line. Any ideas on how to get this? Picture shows one end good the other missing.
Jeff

 

[yrens]

Fantastic update
Great news today. With the pony motor being the weak link prior to today, I’m happy to say it appears to be running better then ever with a new cap, condenser. But it wasn’t fixed until I installed the new points that did the trick. All this time it acted like a fuel/air issue prior to no spark. But it turns out to be the ignition that must have slowly going that created the head scratcher until finally it went.So I immediately started with engaging the starting pinion and worked on getting air out of the fuel system. I got close with some black smoke but no cigar just yetI’ll try and post a clip, but I have a big question?? I had one fuel line from the injection pump to injector that was leaking at the nut. Turns out it appears to be missing a spacer which looks to be part of the fuel line. Any ideas on how to get this? Picture shows one end good the other missing.
Jeff

Fantastic update
Great news today. With the pony motor being the weak link prior to today, I’m happy to say it appears to be running better then ever with a new cap, condenser. But it wasn’t fixed until I installed the new points that did the trick. All this time it acted like a fuel/air issue prior to no spark. But it turns out to be the ignition that must have slowly going that created the head scratcher until finally it went.So I immediately started with engaging the starting pinion and worked on getting air out of the fuel system. I got close with some black smoke but no cigar just yetI’ll try and post a clip, but I have a big question?? I had one fuel line from the injection pump to injector that was leaking at the nut. Turns out it appears to be missing a spacer which looks to be part of the fuel line. Any ideas on how to get this? Picture shows one end good the other missing.
Jeff

I may need help on the YouTube clip. I pushed the film icon on top and embedded the link however I don’t see it posted?

 

[Lumberjack Matt]

Lol, I just had that same exact issue with that little ring missing on my injection pump and the line leaking. Fortunately I found one off a spare line that broke into 3 pieces, but I stuck it around the line with some grease and it sealed up.

If I had to make up a new one, I'd look at the hardware store or at McMaster for a spacer where the inside diameter matches and cut it in half to get it on the line. Others here might have a better idea though. Sounds like you are close!

 

[D5Dan]

Pony motor sounds great…congrats on getting past that hurdle…extra credit for pics AND video!!

if your pulling fuel from original tank and lines, have a couple fuel filters since you’ll likely catch a ton of crap in the first one/two filters.

Not sure how to handle that line fitting…but I think you have the problem identified (air leak).

Keep digging man, you’re going get it!!

 

[yrens]

Lol, I just had that same exact issue with that little ring missing on my injection pump and the line leaking. Fortunately I found one off a spare line that broke into 3 pieces, but I stuck it around the line with some grease and it sealed up.

If I had to make up a new one, I'd look at the hardware store or at McMaster for a spacer where the inside diameter matches and cut it in half to get it on the line. Others here might have a better idea though. Sounds like you are close!

funny! Yea I was even wondering if I could put a few rubber o rings around it and that might seal it.

 

[yrens]

Pony motor sounds great…congrats on getting past that hurdle…extra credit for pics AND video!!

if your pulling fuel from original tank and lines, have a couple fuel filters since you’ll likely catch a ton of crap in the first one/two filters.

Not sure how to handle that line fitting…but I think you have the problem identified (air leak).

Keep digging man, you’re going get it!!

Thank you. It was a huge day for sure. There is a aftermarket inline fuel filter which I just replaced prior. I will definitely keep my eye on it.

 

[Lumberjack Matt]

O-rings wont work, it needs to be something solid to help that nut clamp down on the flare fitting. If it's leaking there, then the injector won't be putting much fuel into the cylinder. Assuming you hit the 3 air bleeding spots in the correct order (lower tower, upper tower, injection pump nuts), you shouldn't even really have to bleed the lines to the valves, but its a good way to check that fuel is getting all the way up there. Don't be afraid to give it a tickle of starting fluid once you get all the injection leaks sorted...

 

[yrens]

O-rings wont work, it needs to be something solid to help that nut clamp down on the flare fitting. If it's leaking there, then the injector won't be putting much fuel into the cylinder. Assuming you hit the 3 air bleeding spots in the correct order (lower tower, upper tower, injection pump nuts), you shouldn't even really have to bleed the lines to the valves, but its a good way to check that fuel is getting all the way up there. Don't be afraid to give it a tickle of starting fluid once you get all the injection leaks sorted...

I hear you. Take a look at the pictures. I used a grommet which is pretty solid and a tad thicker then the original spacer. I’m confident that it should give enough fill to push down good and seal tight

 

[yrens]

Although you have been there before me so I’ll trust your opinion.
Jeff

 

[oarwhat]

I doubt that will work. It needs to be metal. The pressure in that line is probably over 1000 PSI. Something like a bushing cut down and split in half would work.

 

[yrens]

I doubt that will work. It needs to be metal. The pressure in that line is probably over 1000 PSI. Something like a bushing cut down and split in half would work.

Well I was planning a backup plan of making a bushing like you said. Also I have a guy just south of me approximately 40 min drive who has a parts machine and had the line. He’s a bit hard to get a hold of to swing down and get what I need.

 

[skyking1]

I hear a happy pony motor and see some black smoke, man you are close !

 

[Nige]

I don't know if anyone has suggested this yet, but you really need a Parts Manual - or at least access to one.
I don't know if they are still available from Cat but with a Serial Number I can certainly have a look. I did have a poke around and found
The other option is to register on the ACMOC web site - www.acmoc.org/ - and look in their library of old manuals. you can have access to them once you pay the subscription.

 

[yrens]

I don't know if anyone has suggested this yet, but you really need a Parts Manual - or at least access to one.
I don't know if they are still available from Cat but with a Serial Number I can certainly have a look. I did have a poke around and found
The other option is to register on the ACMOC web site - www.acmoc.org/ - and look in their library of old manuals. you can have access to them once you pay the subscription.

You are correct. I have been planning on doing one or the other. Meaning the ACMOC or find a manual. What do you think? My serial number is 7U3349

 

[Nige]

This is it - covers all 7U machines from first built up to 27569. I don't know how the prices compare to subscribing to ACMOC and using their resources. I don't even know if they have a Parts Manual for that Serial Number range in their library, and unfortunately no idea how to find out.

 

[yrens]

I believe they do. And it’s $40.00 per year. So I guess it’s worth a try.

 

[yrens]

I believe they do. And it’s $40.00 per year. So I guess it’s worth a try.

I’ll look at both options today and figure it out.

 

[Lumberjack Matt]

I'm an ACMOC member. The scan quality for the 7U and 6U parts manuals isn't the best. It's really something that's nice to have a physical copy of, and the eBay reprints are decent quality, very easy to read all the numbers, and cheap.

The service and operators manuals are good quality at ACMOC, those are worth the price of admission. You can also get the service manual for the D315 engine there too, which you will need. There is nothing engine related in the 7U tractor service manual.

 

[yrens]

Okay I’ll probably get a hard copy then. I have the other two (service/overhaul) which were a must for sure. Thanks.

 

[Nige]

There is nothing engine related in the 7U tractor service manual.

That doesn't surprise me. Back in the day the service & parts manuals for the engine were generally separate from the machine.