trkirkendall
Member
Nige, could you possibly get a part number for that spring and the adjustment washers? I can not seem to find it anywhere.
S/N - CAT0257BVSLK03751
S/N - CAT0257BVSLK03751
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CAT257B. Does not want to turn when it warms up. lift arm cylinders leaking down while running.
- Thread starter trkirkendall
- Start date
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- Tags
- 257b cat hydraulic lift cylinder turning
Nige
Senior Member
Sorry I got the wrong valve. Assuming that this is the one you are referring to there are no serviceable internal parts. The complete valve #10 is P/N 204-1459. The 3mm thick external shims #7 are available under P/N 204-1456. The O-Ring #16 is P/N 6V-8352.
trkirkendall
Member
I think I have found the issue. My speed sensing pressure. It is supposed to be set at 375psi ( I think, I don’t have the paper work in front of me) the lowest my gage will go is 125psi and it would not even register on the gage. I finally found how to adjust it (I could tell someone had messed with it before, there were Channel lock marks on the cover that covers up the adjustment screw). I had to adjust it quite a bit (maybe 4 turns) before i could get the pressure to start increasing. I set it to the correct spec’s. I then had to check all the crossover relief valves because I adjusted them the other day. They pegged out my 6000psi gage. They are supposed to be set at 5555psi. I set them to the correct spec’s.
When I test drove it, it is a completely different machine now. It seems to have SO much more power. The machine will turn on a dime now.
I want to say thank you to Mr. Nige. I don’t think I would have figured it out without you. I was on the verge of selling the machine.
When I test drove it, it is a completely different machine now. It seems to have SO much more power. The machine will turn on a dime now.
I want to say thank you to Mr. Nige. I don’t think I would have figured it out without you. I was on the verge of selling the machine.
Nige
Senior Member
I guess that now you understand the importance of doing the tests in the order in which they are listed in the T&A procedure and not moving on until you have every one of the preceding values in the test sequence within specification. Extremely glad that you got it fixed.
trkirkendall
Member
I have another question.
Machine hydraulic’s are running great now.
Now I find that the hydraulic’s are over powering the engine at times killing the engine.
If I have a full bucket and turn to fast the engine will choke down and die. Or if I am driving into a pile of dirt it to get a bucket full it will choke the engine down and kill the engine.
Is this normal for this machine? Just not enough HP? Or is there something else that could be wrong?
RPM’s are set to the correct specs.
Just changed the fuel filter when I was doing all the hydraulic checks 2 weeks ago.
Machine hydraulic’s are running great now.
Now I find that the hydraulic’s are over powering the engine at times killing the engine.
If I have a full bucket and turn to fast the engine will choke down and die. Or if I am driving into a pile of dirt it to get a bucket full it will choke the engine down and kill the engine.
Is this normal for this machine? Just not enough HP? Or is there something else that could be wrong?
RPM’s are set to the correct specs.
Just changed the fuel filter when I was doing all the hydraulic checks 2 weeks ago.
Nige
Senior Member
Which one.? #1 (the small inline filter) or #6.?
Try taking a look inside #6 and check that it's actually full of fuel when you have the low power issue.
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trkirkendall
Member
I replaced #6.
#1 was not on the machine when I bought it and the screen in the mechanical pump would clog up so I added one in that spot. However I took it out the other day because I could never get it to fill up very much. The machine would run but I wasn’t sure if it was causing any issues with it not being full. So as of 2 weeks ago it is not on there. I also took the screen out of the mechanical pump and made sure it was clean.
#1 was not on the machine when I bought it and the screen in the mechanical pump would clog up so I added one in that spot. However I took it out the other day because I could never get it to fill up very much. The machine would run but I wasn’t sure if it was causing any issues with it not being full. So as of 2 weeks ago it is not on there. I also took the screen out of the mechanical pump and made sure it was clean.
Nige
Senior Member
I would strongly recommend going back to installing an inline filter. HOWEVER you do need one rated for diesel, most of the inline filters sold at auto parts stores will only work for gasoline. Either go with the OEM Part Number 1G-7206 or a NAPA3972 which should work in your application.
Next step, remove the complete fuel filter/water separator assembly, and separate the filter from the head. Remove all the fitting, plugs, etc, and either rod through all the fuel passages in the head or blow through them with compressed air. Reassemble and test.
Also next time you have a low fuel level in the tank try draining the water & sediment from it. The drain plug is close to the LH rear corner of the machine. If it's been a while you might be surprised at what comes out. Procedure is in the O&M Manual. While you're in the area try clreaning out the fuel tank cap to make sure the breather is clear.
Next step, remove the complete fuel filter/water separator assembly, and separate the filter from the head. Remove all the fitting, plugs, etc, and either rod through all the fuel passages in the head or blow through them with compressed air. Reassemble and test.
Also next time you have a low fuel level in the tank try draining the water & sediment from it. The drain plug is close to the LH rear corner of the machine. If it's been a while you might be surprised at what comes out. Procedure is in the O&M Manual. While you're in the area try clreaning out the fuel tank cap to make sure the breather is clear.
trkirkendall
Member
Thank you. I will work on this tomorrow.
Nige
Senior Member
The best time to drain the tank of water & sediment is after the machine has been sitting overnight.
trkirkendall
Member
I am having another issue out of my machine. Ever since I bought it (about 5 years ago) I have been dealing with an over heating issue.
The hydraulic fan use to turn really slow at ideal. Since I fixed the hydraulic issue it turns a lot faster now but still overheating. It’s really hard to get an accurate rpm on the fan.
I have made sure the relief valve on the hydraulic fan is not set to low.
I have added and electric fan to the top of the radiator/hydraulic cooler.
I have put on a brand new radiator.
New thermostat. I even tried to gut the thermostat and just put the washer back in.
I have taken the water pump off and inspected it. Everything looked good on it. I ran my water hose and flushed out the engine block to make sure it flowed good.
I filled up a bucket of water and put one side of the coolant hose in the bucket and ran the machine to make sure the water pump was pumping properly. Everything checked out good.
I have added a temperature gauge so I can see what temp it is actually running instead of just relying on the alarm.
It will get up to 230 - 240 degrees pretty fast.
I’ll let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes to cool off then work it for 10 or 15 minutes until it over heats again.
Do you have any suggestions on the next direction I should go?
S/N - CAT0257BVSLK03751
The hydraulic fan use to turn really slow at ideal. Since I fixed the hydraulic issue it turns a lot faster now but still overheating. It’s really hard to get an accurate rpm on the fan.
I have made sure the relief valve on the hydraulic fan is not set to low.
I have added and electric fan to the top of the radiator/hydraulic cooler.
I have put on a brand new radiator.
New thermostat. I even tried to gut the thermostat and just put the washer back in.
I have taken the water pump off and inspected it. Everything looked good on it. I ran my water hose and flushed out the engine block to make sure it flowed good.
I filled up a bucket of water and put one side of the coolant hose in the bucket and ran the machine to make sure the water pump was pumping properly. Everything checked out good.
I have added a temperature gauge so I can see what temp it is actually running instead of just relying on the alarm.
It will get up to 230 - 240 degrees pretty fast.
I’ll let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes to cool off then work it for 10 or 15 minutes until it over heats again.
Do you have any suggestions on the next direction I should go?
S/N - CAT0257BVSLK03751