D6R transmission issue

[Aaron.ampcon]

Got a D6R serial prefix 3ZN shifts into neutral sometimes when travelling in forward or reverse. There are 3 active codes, brake pedal sensor, torque convertor output speed sensor and priority valve. Also notice the lights on the dash flash off and on and gauges sweep the same as when your turn the key to on the same time it has the transmission shift into neutral issue. Also seems to happen more frequently on higher rpms. Any help?

 

[Nige]

Can you post exactly what Active Codes you have. It makes it easier to look them up.

Having the dash lights flash and the gauges sweep sounds almost like a temporary electrical power loss. Doing it at high RPM maybe related to vibration.? Have you checked all the battery and ground cables, including the engine and dash panel grounds if it has them.?

Do you have an electrical schematic.?

 

[Aaron.ampcon]

Can you post exactly what Active Codes you have. It makes it easier to look them up.

Having the dash lights flash and the gauges sweep sounds almost like a temporary electrical power loss. Doing it at high RPM maybe related to vibration.? Have you checked all the battery and ground cables, including the engine and dash panel grounds if it has them.?

These are the codes. I'm thinking it may be something electrical was hoping you could point me in the direction to check

 

[Nige]

The Brake Pedal switch Code is not Active. It would be RED if it was.
Suggestion: Download a Product Status Report from ET before you go any further. It will serve as a record for how things were when you first connected to the machine. It will also show which Diagnsotic Codes were Active and which ones were Logged.

Again he asks - do you have an electrical schematic.?

I think your first step should be to check that all the connections on the batteries are clean and tight.
Second is to check all the ground cables. (The schematic will show you where they are located)

 

[Aaron.ampcon]

The Brake Pedal switch Code is not Active. It would be RED if it was.
Suggestion: Download a Product Status Report from ET before you go any further. It will serve as a record for how things were when you first connected to the machine. It will also show which Diagnsotic Codes were Active and which ones were Logged.

Again he asks - do you have an electrical schematic.?

I think your first step should be to check that all the connections on the batteries are clean and tight.
Second is to check all the ground cables. (The schematic will show you where they are located)

No I do not have a schematic can you send me one.

 

[Nige]

Attached the troubleshooting procedures.
Schematic on the way. Check your messages.

 

[Aaron.ampcon]

Attached the troubleshooting procedures.
Schematic on the way. Check your messages.

Thank you Nige

 

[Nige]

So did you get anywhere with it.?

 

[Aaron.ampcon]

So did you get anywhere with it.?

Hey Nige did not get to do anything on machine since, we be back on it next week, would give you an update.

 

[Aaron.ampcon]

So did you get anywhere with it.?

So an update, did not get to do any diagnosis yet but moved the machine today to put it in an area to do troubleshooting tomorrow and noticed some things. So it does not only neutralize when the monitor shorts off and on it does it other times also. It also has a delay in movement in forward when selected it takes like 2 seconds before it engages, this does not happen in reverse.

 

[tctractors]

open the right engine door that is from the seat, then stick your head in and follow the cable up to the plug, you will also need to drop down the dash to see the plug on the bottom right, this involves removing a few more small sections of panel work towards the cab to get at things, pull the plug open and check all the pin connections for green or burnt problems, its a good start with the next point to check involves removing the killer seat to get into the ECM under the left panel, you might also need to pop off the battery box to check out the fuse panel, the brake position switch runs on 24 volts but the transmission works on P.W.M. 5 volts pulsing, the waving of the display is often caused by the plug under the dash, any faulty wires should be pin out tested from the ECM plugs the wires are all numbered, when you get the wiring tamed if the transmission is still playing up I might have a few tips for you to find out what is knackered.

 

[Aaron.ampcon]

Update so I'm also having a delay in the forward direction, takes about 2 seconds to engage, does not have this delay in reverse

 

[Nige]

Tony, he's got Active Codes for both the brake pedal switch and the Priority Valve Solenoid.
I suggested he find the cause and fix both before moving forward.

 

[tctractors]

The peddle switch is an easy fix as it is 24 volt, put a bit of board and a soft pad on the track and lean in to the cab, its only a few wires so simple enough, the Priority valve solenoid is best reached from underneath again easy to sort, the valve is below your left foot as you sit in the cab, its around the spider drive shaft area on the back case, you can do a pressure test before and after fitting a new mag valve to confirm your repair, there is adjustable valves on this control that might need some movement but not often the case the wires are if i recall 24 volt to the mag coil.

 

[Aaron.ampcon]

So are you saying I should change out the pedal switch and the priority valve solenoid? Is the pedal switch inside the box which is by the pedal?

 

[Nige]

So are you saying I should change out the pedal switch and the priority valve solenoid? Is the pedal switch inside the box which is by the pedal?

NO. First do the two troubleshooting procedures I sent you. That will indicate what the problem is in each case. Repair as necessary.

It is quite possible that in both cases you could have a wiring issue that may also be related to the fact the Monitor Panel occasionally de-powers.......

 

[tctractors]

NO. First do the two troubleshooting procedures I sent you. That will indicate what the problem is in each case. Repair as necessary.

It is quite possible that in both cases you could have a wiring issue that may also be related to the fact the Monitor Panel occasionally de-powers.......

Nige, I did say in an earlier post to pin out the wires or check for voltage, the plug in the bottom R/Hand behind the dash is well worth pulling open to check for burnt or green connections, it's easy to test the priority mag coil but it's often the spool knackered, the oil pressure gauge with prove this by first reading the pressure at low idle, then cleaning up the mag coil and post and establishing it works (power to it) then seeing if the pressure lifts at low idle, I think it works at speeds below 1350 rpm.

 

[Nige]

The OP messaged me as follows……..
“Ok so we resolved the monitor shorting issue which was neutralizing the machine. It was a bad chassis ground or main switch, by passed the switch and bolted ground to new area.”

 

[tctractors]

The OP messaged me as follows……..
“Ok so we resolved the monitor shorting issue which was neutralizing the machine. It was a bad chassis ground or main switch, by passed the switch and bolted ground to new area.”

Do you think that means he has dog tied the main Master switch ??? if the Earth was so manky how did it start up the engine, 24 volts makes a lot of fuss with a bad connection, how would you miss this?

 

[Aaron.ampcon]

Do you think that means he has dog tied the main Master switch ??? if the Earth was so manky how did it start up the engine, 24 volts makes a lot of fuss with a bad connection, how would you miss this?

Engine was starting fine. I think there was something wrong internally on the main switch and when it picked up a bit of vibration it was giving the issue