• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

How much to reseal some cylinders?

cosmaar1

Senior Member
Joined
May 14, 2020
Messages
523
Location
Ohio
Thanks guys. The plan is to drain is as best I can. It probably won't be completely perfect but better than what I currently have. I really appreciate all y'alls opinions and comments.

Is there a good place to buy an assortment of hose fitting o-rings? I typically buy my replacement hoses from a local Parker store, is that my best bet? I may be inclined to change the o-rings when I flush the hydraulic fluid. Waste of time and money? Any special type of o-ring I should be looking for?

I had a lot of water in my hydraulic system 2 years ago because of a leak in the top of my tank.

After a complete drain, run for a few months, and then drain again, the milky color in my fluid is gone. I’m not saying all of the water is out, but when I first changed it, the fluid was white/orange…. So I think it’s a lot better.
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,618
Location
Canada
Yes you want new filters. They are about $100cad. each so probably about half that in the US. They are big filters though about a foot long.
 

aighead

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2019
Messages
2,573
Location
Dayton, OH
Yeah, I bought new ones last time, but I was just making sure. If I recall properly, Dave, they were around 100US as well.
 

Steve Favia

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2019
Messages
170
Location
illinois
Occupation
Retired local 150 Operating Engineer
Just took my backhoe boom cylinder off my 580K to be rebuilt just started seeping 500bucks not to bad but it’s gonna take 3 week.Same shop I’ve used before,he’s just slammed right now.Putting in an in ground pool and really need it o well that’s the way it goes.
 

1693TA

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
2,687
Location
Farmington IL
Occupation
FAA Radar Engineer, (Retired)
Picked up my manlift cylinders on Friday and installed yesterday. Main lift cylinder, (8" bore, 52" stroke) was $650.00 and basket slave level cylinder, 2.5" bore, 26" stroke) was $250.00. Both needed barrels honed, and new bronze gland bushing manufactured. Prior owner had main lift cylinder rebuilt in the past and bronze guide not replaced, hence not holding seal.

Both operate very well without leaks now. Took several iterations of full stroking to purge air.

20230802_192337.jpg
 

aighead

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2019
Messages
2,573
Location
Dayton, OH
Ha, you guys are really rubbing it in!

I'm aiming to work on my hoe next week, when I have the week off work. I have to get it done so I can get the barn floor done so I can put all the crap in the yard back in there! Come on!
 

Steve Favia

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2019
Messages
170
Location
illinois
Occupation
Retired local 150 Operating Engineer
Just got my 580K backhoe boom cylinder back 740.00 went up a bit,just like everything else I guess,at least it’s done,no other leaks YET.
 

Acoals

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2019
Messages
1,360
Location
Wisconsin
Occupation
Jack of all trades/Master of none
Picked up my manlift cylinders on Friday and installed yesterday. Main lift cylinder, (8" bore, 52" stroke) was $650.00 and basket slave level cylinder, 2.5" bore, 26" stroke) was $250.00. Both needed barrels honed, and new bronze gland bushing manufactured. Prior owner had main lift cylinder rebuilt in the past and bronze guide not replaced, hence not holding seal.

Both operate very well without leaks now. Took several iterations of full stroking to purge air.

View attachment 291377

Wait, your Lincoln buzzbox/6011 weldments held and the boom didn't come down on you?!?!?
 

1693TA

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
2,687
Location
Farmington IL
Occupation
FAA Radar Engineer, (Retired)
Buttoned this part up yesterday. No leaks after over an hour of constant cycling and testing of the two cylinders addressed. Now have two others to pull out and send in for reseal/rebuild. One spreads the steering axles out, the other the main basket level cylinder. Neither of these are difficult, nor take much in disassembly for access. Both are floor level accessed when the boom is down.

Once these are repaired, the machine will be "dry" as they say.

Setting the main cylinder back into the machine with "Fred":

20230802_105433.jpg

Main lift cylinder supporting boom. Second photo shows support chains still attached but loose allowing a two hour "dwell" time to check for any boom creep down. None was found:

20230802_140923.jpg20230802_140940.jpg

Work area cleaned up to protect the guilty:

20230802_192317.jpg

Onward to the next part now.
 
Last edited:

1693TA

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
2,687
Location
Farmington IL
Occupation
FAA Radar Engineer, (Retired)
With the hydraulics now proven it's time to move on to the next phase which is making some $$$ with it. The view is great from the top:

20230805_134407.jpg

No oil leakage which was profuse in the center of the machine any longer:

20230805_135923.jpg

With the hydraulics now proven, I'll order new tires to replace at least one that is original from 1980. All have dry rot so well aged, and the lift has always been outside till my ownership. All functions now work well and are very linear.
 

aighead

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2019
Messages
2,573
Location
Dayton, OH
So I've got these orings... I think when we were removing the cylinders the dude that flaked on me said he'd have new ones upon reinstall. I think these were around the pins, but I don't remember where? Can you guys help? And is there a kit for this type of Oring? They are flat and not like the ones I'll replace in the hose fittings.

20230809_135341.jpg


I thought here but there are already orings in there, where this picture is pointing...

20230809_135651.jpg
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,618
Location
Canada
They could be. When the bucket cylinders on my track loader were rebuilt I noticed there are seals in the ends of the rod eye to help keep grease in and dirt out. Your machine may just use flat o-rings. They look to be pretty dirty too which makes me think they weren't internal seals.
 

alrman

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Messages
3,308
Location
QLD Australia
Occupation
Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
They are supposed to be steel backed wiper seals.
It looks like the rubbers have seperated from the steel backs on some of them?
Looks like the steel parts of the seals are still fitted to the bushings?

As already mentioned, they help keep grease in & dirt out of the pin & bushing areas.
..... nice to have them fitted, but not totally essential for a property machine.

When replaced, if not careful, the lips of the seals are often damaged when the pin is installed - negating the purpose of their installation.
 

OzDozer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
2,207
Location
Perth, Western Australia.
Occupation
Semi-Retired ..
Cat and some other manufacturers utilise steel-backed seals to provide articulated pin sealing on loader and bucket and ripper linkages to ensure dirt is kept out of greased areas of pins.

However, it's possible the seals in your machine don't have steel backing, and are merely made out of some type of nylon or teflon or urethane, or other hard-wearing synthetic material.

The idea behind the greased pin seals was to not only keep the greased area of the pin and bushing relatively free from dirt contamination, it was also an idea to reduce the greasing times.

Originally, greasing pins and bushings was a daily chore with a recommended greasing interval of 10 hrs.

But sealed pins and bushings was supposed to reduce greasing intervals to 250hrs. That was all O.K. while there was no wear in the pins, bushings and seals. But wear soon makes the 250 hour greasing interval too long.

You can ensure grease stays in the pin and bushing for longer by fabricating large diameter washers in several thicknesses (out of steel or some type of wear-resisting thermoplastic) and slipping these washers into the gaps between the pin lugs.

You slip into the joint, as many washers of the desirable varying thicknesses, until all the slop between the lugs is taken out.
These washers then act as a close-fitting, labyrinth-style seal, that keeps dirt out of the joint, and the grease in.

It's good to see your pins and bushings have been getting plenty of grease. Way too many operators seeing greasing as a chore to be avoided.

 
Top