JCB 3CX Engine block heater location/install?

[baxter28]

First time poster, near-term reader - lots of good info here that helped me find my backhoe....

I picked up a previous-life-Sunbelt JCB 3CX (2016) that lived in Florida. T4 engine - per JCB site its - "JCB 4 Cyl Elec Engine (UN3/GB3, T4i, T4F, CEV Stage-IV <55kw)"
Now that its 2 miles above sea level, it really needs a block heater.
I put a 100w stick-on heater for the oil pan, but I'd really like it to be baking hot vs the minimal improvement this pad thing does.

I have the diagram from the parts manual below... this appears to indicate the block heater screws in towards the rear, and the plug faces the front - this being on the front of the engine based on aligning my limited view of the area from the oil filler.

Could anyone with a 3CX w/ a block heater take a peek and or photo to confirm? I _think_ I see a freeze plug in the vicinity.. just hoping its threaded and is the right one.

This is really a hard are to get to - it looks like pulling at least the top radiator hoses, the metal "tub" that the hood latches to, and possibly unmounting the radiators.. Is this right or is there a secret?
Or, should I just get a generic radiator hose heater like https://katsblockheater.com/radiator-hose-heaters and not bother with surgery here?

 

[Tinkerer]

Freeze (expansion ) plugs are not threaded.
There has to be a threaded plug in that hole of your JCB.
Because of the thread pitch you will most likely need an OEM JCB block heater.
You will definitely need that O ring (1A).

 

[Nige]

If the diagram is an accurate representation then it appears that the threaded hole for the heater is not actually in the block but in a housing bolted to the block. See the 2 bolts slightly above it. Try locating the housing/plug based on the fact that it’s just forward of the engine oil filler tube.

 

[Delmer]

I would expect to see a 3/8" or 1/2" square recess in a flat head plug in that location, or maybe a hex head. The hardest part might be removing the original plug. I'd get the plug broke loose before ordering the heater, don't have to drain the coolant to break it, unless you want to use heat. Have you looked from the bottom? might give you better access even if you have to use a pallet and some foam to get comfortable enough to reach at an odd angle. I'd expect 1A to be an aluminum or copper sealing washer. JD suggested #1 diesel only if an engine had to start over 5,000' elevation. Even if you don't need to go that far, a higher cetane will start easier.

 

[baxter28]

Thanks folks.

@Tinkerer I actually already picked up the heater - $140 from the local dealer... now I am wondering if an inline hose heater would be easier...

In another diagram I think I found the plug @Delmer refers to (attached) - I am back home away from the backhoe, but I think just taking off one of the top heater hoses will give me acess.... will see next weekend.

Regarding #1 diesel - I'm buying off-road-use (red dye) diesel at 10,200 feet elevation.. so wonder if thats more #1 like? Will have to look at the pump - a bit of googling says farm/off-road diesel isn't #1.
In a place where its constantly 0f out, I'd think they might have to be different than sea level for gelling purposes.

Will report back, thanks again!

 

[Tinkerer]

I prefer the inline circulating heaters because the cab heater is heating the cab as soon as the engine is started.
Who ever is selling you the fuel you are buying should know what it is.
You can buy cetane booster that can be added to the fuel. I have used it and it makes a big difference when it is below freezing.
But, with a block heater it isn't needed. IMHO !

 

[baxter28]

Oh I don't have a cab heater on this... open air to experience the weather!

I buy the fuel from the nearest gas station - will have to check next time. It came with a full tank (25g+?) of fuel from FL - so for sure that's not what I want to use... it also had some water in it from sitting, so maybe once I get a whole tank thru it with higher-alt stuff it will start easier. Even with just the pad-heater getting the oil tank up to maybe 50f it only took 3-4 tries to get it started.

 

[Delmer]

That's the best heater you can get. As long as you can get that plug loose, it should work great. A starter, battery and cables in top condition will help also. If you get a new one, find a ISKRA/Mahle/Letrika gear reduction starter, the biggest one that will fit.

 

[Tinkerer]

Oh I don't have a cab heater on this... open air to experience the weather!

I buy the fuel from the nearest gas station - will have to check next time. It came with a full tank (25g+?) of fuel from FL - so for sure that's not what I want to use... it also had some water in it from sitting, so maybe once I get a whole tank thru it with higher-alt stuff it will start easier. Even with just the pad-heater getting the oil tank up to maybe 50f it only took 3-4 tries to get it started.

I wouldn't wait to run that fuel through the engine.
Drain the tank and use the fuel to a light a fire somewhere.
Then change the filters and clean any screens that may be in the fuel lines.
Buy some decent fuel that is formulated for your geographic location.
Although you don't have a cab, an aftermarket heater mounted on the floor will do wonders to make you comfortable. on cold days. IMHO of course !

 

[Delmer]

Where are you located that it's zero outside, and there's a gas station at 10,000'? I would guess they're selling winterized diesel of some sort, but it wouldn't be #1 unless specifically stated.

 

[baxter28]

@Delmer Fairplay, CO 80440. Just checked - gas station is at 9,953' but my place is up at 10,750

 

[Eric Forstrom]

@Delmer Fairplay, CO 80440. Just checked - gas station is at 9,953' but my place is up at 10,750

I assumed you were going to be in Leadville, the 2-mile-high city. I am in Northern NM at 7,600 feet and I couldn't start my backhoe without the block heater. I had to install a recirc model because my JD didn't have the factory port. Wait a couple more months and winter will finally be over.