DMiller
Senior Member
Glad to see it is free from the mud. This time of year gotta be wary of the woods, lots of mushy spots that are so covered up by the brush! And agree, really good on the wrecker for winch price.
Boone. I have read all of your posts and like everyone else on here have found the experience informative and at times entertaining. I read I while back where you guys put new packings in your tilt cylinders. Have you ever done the lift cylinders? I'm looking at a 175c and the lift cylinders are leaking and look to be more difficult to get to for repair.Yes, those double ramps take the drama out of loading a tracked machine. We love using this guy for many reasons - shows up when he says and his trailer is another.
WOW that's a cheap wrecker bill - got his number?
Glad it's out and all is good.
Glad to see it is free from the mud. This time of year gotta be wary of the woods, lots of mushy spots that are so covered up by the brush! And agree, really good on the wrecker for winch price.
Nice to see it out & back on dry ground again!!
Boone. I have read all of your posts and like everyone else on here have found the experience informative and at times entertaining. I read I while back where you guys put new packings in your tilt cylinders. Have you ever done the lift cylinders? I'm looking at a 175c and the lift cylinders are leaking and look to be more difficult to get to for repair.
Thanks
Is not so bad a job if you set it up well prior to taking them off. Get the bucket off, situate the loader lift frame on cribbing well above where you need to work and all secured BEFORE EVEN considering getting under it. Engine off, batteries disconnected, cycle the control to relieve any residual pressure then disconnect lines, hardest part will be aligning rigging to hold the cylinders until the pins are fully out. or if feel can tackle this disassembling the cylinders on the tractor they will still need be supported with rigging and will also have to support the ram/piston/seal head assembly as drag it out.
And before ask a single timber or two under the frame is NOT enough, use what you have to making certain it cannot fall down. Death would be inescapable.
Welcome to the forum toddchas! Thanks for the comments. We have not done the lift cylinders. They both leak, but not bad enough that we want to tackle them yet. Like DMiller says, it's pretty straightforward. I'd probably pull up to a tall tree to block the loader up. I'd only do it this way if brake lock works. It's a small rod coming out of the right side cabinet. Press down on your brake and pull up on the rod. It should lock your brake pedal down. Add chains with a come-along from the loader crossbar to the ROPs as an added safety measure. Relieve the pressure from the cylinders with the engine off. Knock the upper pins out while supporting the barrel with some rigging. The rod should pull right out while you leave the barrel on the tractor. Good luck and Merry Christmas.
Sounds good thank you for that. Have you ever done the bushings on the lift arms? The current owner of 38 years says he has never done them. They are obviously very wore out but he has kept grease in them.Is not so bad a job if you set it up well prior to taking them off. Get the bucket off, situate the loader lift frame on cribbing well above where you need to work and all secured BEFORE EVEN considering getting under it. Engine off, batteries disconnected, cycle the control to relieve any residual pressure then disconnect lines, hardest part will be aligning rigging to hold the cylinders until the pins are fully out. or if feel can tackle this disassembling the cylinders on the tractor they will still need be supported with rigging and will also have to support the ram/piston/seal head assembly as drag it out.
And before ask a single timber or two under the frame is NOT enough, use what you have to making certain it cannot fall down. Death would be inescapable.
Welcome to the forum toddchas! Thanks for the comments. We have not done the lift cylinders. They both leak, but not bad enough that we want to tackle them yet. Like DMiller says, it's pretty straightforward. I'd probably pull up to a tall tree to block the loader up. I'd only do it this way if brake lock works. It's a small rod coming out of the right side cabinet. Press down on your brake and pull up on the rod. It should lock your brake pedal down. Add chains with a come-along from the loader crossbar to the ROPs as an added safety measure. Relieve the pressure from the cylinders with the engine off. Knock the upper pins out while supporting the barrel with some rigging. The rod should pull right out while you leave the barrel on the tractor. Good luck and Merry Christmas.
Sounds good thank you for that. Have you ever done the bushings on the lift arms? The current owner of 38 years says he has never done them. They are obviously very wore out but he has kept grease in them.
I have gone back in your posts from early on to look at your dash you painted. The dash in this 78 IH looks exactly as yours does. There is one gauge on the left side though that is missing the needle. Did you replace any gauges in your machine and If so where did you find them? Merry Christmas to you and yours!
Never had any bushing work done. The loader arms have a bit of play. Where the tilt cylinder attaches to the upper part of the loader arms, there was a lot of side to side play. They came from the factory with what are known as "cord rings". These are just big rubber rings that cushion the side to side movement and keep the grease sealed on the pin. I know we put these on the tilt cylinders ends but can't remember if we put these on the loader arms. Surprisingly, Komatsu had these. Good to hear the owner is using grease.
The only gauge we had to replace was the hour meter. The rest of them worked. The far left is the clutch pressure, engine oil pressure, then hour, etc. I'm not real sure where you'd get one. I'd call Komatsu. On some things they are outrageous, but you never know till you ask. After that, I'd try going down the list, FP Smith, Bount Parts, CE Parts. A generic one might work if you knew the pressure range on the gauge. Unfortunately, I do not.
I have nothing but good to say of the 175. The ones that are out there are old, so with anything of age and that's been used, you'll have repairs to make, but man she sure puts out the work when she's dialed in. Let us know if you get it.
Good point Welder Dave. Something to consider being that I will use this to remove trees stumps etc. Thanks Dmiller your thoughts on the 4 in 1 seem valid as well. Of course there are those how swear by the 4 in 1 also. I better consider the price, condition and proximity to my land for the purchase of this machine to put me over the top on my decision. I've been researching for years and I do believe this is the opportunity to go there. And given all that happened in the beginning of boone's endeavor to build his machine and the subsequent input since overcoming the many setbacks I'm feeling more confident. Thank you all.Had a MP/4 in 1 by a oddball manufacturer. Heavy, low internal volume, awkward and in a sense limited in uses against a true dozer or a excavator. My Allis has been converted to a GP standard bucket due to that.
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I'm trying to get him to go for the salt tracks, but this is a buy for a 56 area he just bought in the Ozark hills..... I have a feeling that I'm gonna be WHALLOPING with a BIG sledge on that pin.. ya know...Been there all TOO many times.