Trunion repair?

[JBGASH]

I have bought a JD850C dozer that the trunion balls that connect the push arms have been neglected and wore down creating a lot of slop. Can these trunion balls be welded back up to fit new end caps and get any life out of them or is this a waste of time?

 

[Mcrafty1]

I'm going to watch this thread, I have the same issue with my D6C, I think I can swap mine from side to side and if built up with weld, the Front side would be original and they are not hardly worn, I'm hoping to get some extra life out of them with that plan.

 

[grandpa]

The fast and dirty way would be to cut off a 1/4 inch off the cap. More if needed, but someday you will have to pay the fiddler and replace the ball and trunnion.

 

[Nige]

I have bought a JD850C dozer that the trunion balls that connect the push arms have been neglected and wore down creating a lot of slop. Can these trunion balls be welded back up to fit new end caps and get any life out of them or is this a waste of time?

If it was a Cat machine the answer would be yes. Replacement trunnion balls are generally available in the Parts system. Welding on the replacements is not particularly difficult but needs to be done carefully.
JD - no idea, sorry.

 

[Jonas302]

I have flipped and built up weld on a d8 before just to get though the season as the socket had to be cut off the arm and replaced also so a little more time involved and didnt want to tear up the new ball until both parts could be replaced otherwise no it wouldn't have really been worth it to build up

 

[Check Break]

You can weld on the trunion or weld in the cap to tighten her up until you have time to do it right. There's good aftermarket parts for Cats. Don't know about JD.

 

[Welder Dave]

If you build up with weld use a specific rod like Stoody Build Up LH or the equivalent Lincoln Wearshield rod. It won't mushroom like standard rods like 7018. It costs more but using 7018 would be a waste of time and money in my opinion. Grinding it the right profile would take a lot patience but worth it in the long run. Would be good to use about a 250-300 deg. preheat.

 

[OzDozer]

Swapping from side to side and putting some weld on the worn side to take out the slop will work.
You will be hard-pressed to find any weld material that comes close to the hardness and depth of hardness of a new trunnion.
A set of new Chinese-origin aftermarket trunnion balls will provide satisfactory service.

For the wear in the casting on the end of the push arm, I've seen owners buy a new trunnion end cap, and then cut the curved part of the push arm casting off, and weld the new end cap on, to save on buying the whole casting that is welded into the end of the push arm.

 

[Welder Dave]

The Stoody Build Up is the same rod that's recommended for idlers, rails and rollers and other metal to metal wear. It's a medium hardness. For a final layer there might be a higher hardness rod that could be used but then I think you'd have to worry about spalling.

 

[1693TA]

Seen an apparatus used for grinding those trunions after buildup one time but I think it was home built by the man using it. To me it looked like an extended output shaft hydraulic motor with form ground grinding wheels mounted. The motor rotated around a circular ring that looked like an automotive flywheel with no center and this mounted to a stanchion that was welded to a track frame centered on the trunion. It rotated around the trunion and the depth of grind could be adjusted. I never seen a job from start to finish, but he had wheels for different sizes and radii of trunion balls, and mating but reverse ground tool bits for the push beam saddles used on his boring bar setup. I believe the same hydraulic power unit was used for both setups.

 

[Check Break]

The Stoody Build Up is the same rod that's recommended for idlers, rails and rollers and other metal to metal wear. It's a medium hardness. For a final layer there might be a higher hardness rod that could be used but then I think you'd have to worry about spalling.

Maybe things have changed but a year ago Stoody was only selling it in drum quantities. I purchased a similar product from another vendor in 30lb (+) spools. Worked well on bottom rollers.

 

[Welder Dave]

I was talking about stick
electrodes. They come in 10lb. packages. Pretty sure the equivelant wire is available on 12" spools and maybe even 10lb. 8" spools in smaller sizes like .035" and .045". I used to work for a place that did automatic chromium carbide build up of pipe. They bought a wire made for them by Stoody. When it came they got 14 or 15 drums at a time. I think 500lbs. a drum but may have been less. It was worth a fortune. I think $6-$8 a pound, can't remember exactly but a trailer load was around $50,000 and that was over 20 years ago.

 

[OzDozer]

By the time you buy a couple of really pricey boxes of chromium hardfacing and other electrodes needed for buildup, then take into account your welding time and electrical power expended to build up the trunnions, you've run up nearly the cost of a couple of new aftermarket trunnions.
The Chinese steel and hardening is O.K., nearly all the cutting edges and ripper tips are coming out of China now.

 

[Welder Dave]

Build up rod isn't chromium carbide and is much cheaper but if you can get new trunnion balls would be a lot easier. They still need to be welded on solidly.

 

[Mcrafty1]

With all the talk about replacement trunnion balls and the need to weld them onto the bracket that bolts them to the track frame...wouldn't it be feasible to buy the complete ball/ bracket as one unit? or is there a huge price difference or availability issue?

 

[JBGASH]

A new complete trunion with the bolt on bracket less clamps and hardware is $4600 from Deere for each side. Am getting some aftermarket prices next. Have found a couple excellent condition used ones in salvage for $250 apiece.

 

[Mcrafty1]

A new complete trunion with the bolt on bracket less clamps and hardware is $4600 from Deere for each side. Am getting some aftermarket prices next. Have found a couple excellent condition used ones in salvage for $250 apiece.

$4600.00 per side? that'll buy me a LOT of rods, gasoline for my welder and since I own my outfit...my time isn't worth anything so I guess I'll go dig the welder out of storage and light up some rods.
Skyking told me back along when I found out the cost of new...it'd have me welding them up in no time. I wasn't using the machine at that time and sidelined that detail..this reminded me I still have it to do.

 

[Mcrafty1]

By the time you buy a couple of really pricey boxes of chromium hardfacing and other electrodes needed for buildup, then take into account your welding time and electrical power expended to build up the trunnions, you've run up nearly the cost of a couple of new aftermarket trunnions.
The Chinese steel and hardening is O.K., nearly all the cutting edges and ripper tips are coming out of China now.

Oz, or anyone else that see this. Where would a person look for aftermarket chinesium trunnion's bolt on ready? Any Idea? I'd like to explore that before I spend the money to buy hardening rods.

 

[Jonas302]

Are you getting quoted for the trunnion ball or a whole assembly for $4600 a quick google with out all your info shows this part fro the weld in ball #https://shop.deere.com/us/product/T84771:-Ball-Trunnion/p/T84771 Would have to call for price and availability

For 4600 I would be welding it up or fitting some Cat parts to it Drill and tap it for a big cap washer on the out side so the arm doesnt fall off ?

 

[Mcrafty1]

A new complete trunion with the bolt on bracket less clamps and hardware is $4600 from Deere for each side. Am getting some aftermarket prices next. Have found a couple excellent condition used ones in salvage for $250 apiece.

Try this place, I just found them for my machine...I THINK? $271.00 per side bolt on.I'm just waiting to confirm they will fit my machine.

https://www.agkits.com/caterpillar-trunnion-4j2847.aspx?msclkid=0696281544c510e6b6944da7e97b4b81