Undoing Bolts, nut cracker, torque multiplier?

[Bala]

Oh dear, one guy holding and one driving,

remind me of years ago some guys built a tandem motorbike, the one on the front steered and the one on the back had throttle, gears and brakes.

I will need to read the operating instructions.

 

[Bala]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yGBDorRAzXM

thats what i had in mind

 

[Bala]

I can not get You Tube onsite so i have downloaded a coupe of videos to take back with me.

 

[cps]

Company i used to work for had one of these norbar ones, Great tool, i loved it, would love one now but just cant justifiy a new one, and s/h are like hens teeth! This video show how to set it up etc!

http://youtu.be/wNNIFiU_lSI

Aiden

 

[tuney443]

Bala--you do not need an extension at all to operate a swench .The swench does all the work by itself.

 

[d9gdon]

Why don't you just get some new guys instead? Some won't learn.

 

[Bala]

Bala--you do not need an extension at all to operate a swench .The swench does all the work by itself.

I was meaning if you need to use and extension for the socket, not a bar on the handle, but any of these tools have dangers.

I will try and get more info on the swench and the ratchet type torque multiplier.

Why don't you just get some new guys instead? Some won't learn.

It would be better on the machines and more productive to employ who you wanted but is not possible, if you want to mine you can can only bring in workers from another country if there is no one that can already do the job, and for training, it is very involved. so my job is basically to train people to do my job, so i am not needed. Operaters, trades assistants etc must be all nationals and preference to locals first. My workers live in grass huts, no electricity, running water etc. The award wage for a trades assistant is about 1.10usd and hr, trades person perhaps $5 . I have a national electrician who is good at anything, ac/ dc, gensets, refrig, i would employ him in Australia in a heart beat,his contract rateis $9.80usd an hr. and all of them for that money they often bust there asses, if you are there to keep them on track they are bloody hard workers that will give you all they have, they make mainstream workers look ordinary.

So these guys deserve the opportunity, Its just a bit of a long hall, that is why this is appropriate often:Banghead and I need one that show my head going bald from rubbing my hands on it trying to decide what to do

 

[Nige]

Bala, check if you can get a RAD wrench with a remote trigger assembly, so that you don't have to hold the tool itself while operating it at full torque. Failing that you could always install a ball valve in the line so that it was a "hands off" piece of kit. I would point out that the RAD wrench rotates very slowly so that even if it jumps or slips it will not tend to fly in the way a torque multiplier would.

I have the same issue regarding pay. Our mechanics are on something like $5/hr.

 

[rare ss]

http://www.ntah.com.au/

These guys hire out tools and manufacture long snouts for RAD guns (to torque your inner rims on haul trucks)

These things are 100% safer than any torque multiplier, the RAD34 is good for 3400lbft! once you've done a set of dozer edges wil one of these you'll never go back, only thing we couldnt use it for was track gaurd bolts on a D475A-3 which has minimal clearance we'd have to get a hydraulic head and power pack for

 

[tuney443]

I was meaning if you need to use and extension for the socket, not a bar on the handle, but any of these tools have dangers.

I will try and get more info on the swench and the ratchet type torque multiplier.

The Swench is as safe to operate as can be.The only thing I would advise is to wear goggles because paint chips will fly when fasteners break loose.

 

[Bob Queberg]

The nut splitter is as the name states, only good for cracking/splitting nuts. Now to ask a loaded question; "What type of grease, or magic slime has been applied to the fasteners before the assembly?" Molybdenum Di Sulphide in a powdered form is a metal with the highest load carrying capacity. It is black, and will stick to your skin, but when mixed with a good grease, and applied like it belonged to someone else, it does seem to help.
Applying heat to the bolt heads, may help to "crack" any rust that has built up. Then replace with new bolts. Shining the threads of used bolts on a wire wheel/brush before a good greasing, has helped also. Keeping an
old tap to decrap the holes is a way to eliminate some problems.
Good luck,
Bob

 

[Nige]

I'll only say that if you use any sort of friction reducer like moly paste and you are torquing the fasteners then you need to reduce the torque by approximately 50% or the fasteners will break - guaranteed. If you're using something like copper anti-seize compound the torque should be reduced by about 20-25%.

Unless specified in the repair manual I'm always wary of using anti-seize compounds for the above reason. Usually you will find that in critical areas like sprocket segments, track shoe bolts, and roller/idler cap bolts the installation procedure generally calls for some type of anti-seize. In that case use the specified torque and have at it. If not then the idea is for the bolt to have just a very thin coating of a light (e.g. hydraulic) oil. The torque figures given are based on a lightly-lubricated thread.