What are you doing to your hoe?

[NH575E]

Searched and didn't find a thread like this so decided to start one.

The other day I changed the engine mounts (isolators) on my NH575E. Factory mounts were available from a couple of places but nobody showed 4 in stock. Cost would have been $43-$47 each plus shipping.

I decided to go with a similar isolator from McMaster Carr, part number 6309K42 for $17.58 each. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/128/1591

The original factory type would require removing the mount bracket from the engine block that is held on with huge bolts in a greasy location. No way to jack the engine up high enough to slide them in between the mount plates. Both of my front mounts were already buggered up and non-existent. I still had to cut the crush sleeve with a dremel to get the right side out.

The MccMaster Carr mounts can be flipped over so one side could be slid in the gap and the part with the molded in crush sleeve can be pushed in through the top. The thickness of the rubber the engine rests on is unchanged.

Here is the old and new.


The shoulder on the mount was a little deeper than the hole in the plate so I bought some large grommets and pushed one over to take up the slack on top. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/128/4233




I started to do the rears today but They don't look totally shot and I don't think I'm gonna get out of pulling the mount plates to replace them.

 

[aighead]

I slap her on the bucket when I walk by.

Sorry, I had to make a similar smarta$$ comment that folks made on "What's your hoe doing?"

 

[1693TA]

Attempting to get her to move on her own power.

 

[NH575E]

Trying to get the ol hog ready for summer.

Last year I had to replace the coolant reservoir and cap. At the same time I rinsed out the radiator fins and put a 160* thermostat in with fresh coolant. It never actually overheated after that but in 95-98 degree weather it would start to ease up over the halfway mark after and hour or so. I would just limit my work times and take it back to the barn when I saw it doing that.

This week I finally got around to draining and flushing. I rigged up a fitting that I could back flush from the lower hose. I capped off the lower hose and filled the radiator with vinegar and let it soak overnight. I drained most of the vinegar into a bucket so I could let it settle to see what came out. After it settled and I poured the vinegar off the top. I had about a half cup of white sediment. Even more milky sediment flushed out on the ground as I flushed it all out with clean water. This was only dealing with the radiator as I didn't want the vinegar in my block. After flushing backward and forward and also from the reservoir I capped it back off and filled with a baking soda and water solution to kill off any left over acid. Then I repeated all the flushing back and forth with clean water.

I have a copper wand I made to wash out the radiator, condenser, and oil cooler fins. I can get to both sides of all three and wash from both directions. After I got the loose dirt out I sprayed it all down with air conditioner condenser cleaner and let that soak a while. Then I rinsed them all out from both directions again.

I finished it off by putting a good 180* thermostat back in and putting the coolant back in. The old coolant was clean as the day I put it in and checked to -32 so I reused it. I also replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses.

Took it out back and worked it a while with the heater running. Gauge came up to the halfway mark where it should and stayed there. I won't know till summer if it will stay at the correct temp running the AC in the heat.

It won't be as good as pulling the radiator and taking to a shop for cleaning but hopefully will improve the flow enough to work as long as I want in the heat.

Here are a few pics of the operation:

 

[joe--h]

Walking by these tires --> https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/11l-x-16-tires-where-to-buy.92903/
wondering when the elves are gonna come in the night and take care of it.
Lazy buggers have had 3 weeks and nothing.
Joe H

 

[cosmaar1]

Still trying to get my gland free from the swing cylinder…….

 

[Swetz]

Still trying to get my gland free from the swing cylinder…….

Surprised to hear that. What is the problem? Pics?

 

[Tinkerer]

cosmarr; In the other thread you said you peened the barrel a little.
It most likely needs to be peened quite a bit. I have never read anywhere on HEF that the peening method did not free a stuck gland.
You need to peen the barrel the full length of the gland. Not just an inch or two from the end.

 

[cosmaar1]

Surprised to hear that. What is the problem? Pics?

cosmarr; In the other thread you said you peened the barrel a little.
It most likely needs to be peened quite a bit. I have never read anywhere on HEF that the peening method did not free a stuck gland.
You need to peen the barrel the full length of the gland. Not just an inch or two from the end.

Hey guys sorry for the delay in getting back.

I am trying to get the gland off without taking the cylinder off of the machine. Unfortunately with the mounting plates it’s not easy like a lift cylinder to peen around the outside. At the very most I can only access a small section which to me isn’t going to make much difference in the scheme of things since I can’t get around the whole thing.

More than likely I’m going to have to remove the cylinder entirely and get it off that way as you guys suggested. It’s just been so snowy and icy lately I haven’t had time on the good days.

 

[Swetz]

It’s just been so snowy and icy lately I haven’t had time on the good days.

I hear you there!!! I am ready for spring. I have a million things to do!

 

[T-town]

I am ready for spring

you said it!!...... the ice melting up your way??

 

[Tinkerer]

Cosmaar ; I forgot it is a swing cylinder. Nearly impossible to peen it properly without removing it from the backhoe.

 

[Tenwheeler]

Trying to get the ol hog ready for summer.

Last year I had to replace the coolant reservoir and cap. At the same time I rinsed out the radiator fins and put a 160* thermostat in with fresh coolant. It never actually overheated after that but in 95-98 degree weather it would start to ease up over the halfway mark after and hour or so. I would just limit my work times and take it back to the barn when I saw it doing that.

This week I finally got around to draining and flushing. I rigged up a fitting that I could back flush from the lower hose. I capped off the lower hose and filled the radiator with vinegar and let it soak overnight. I drained most of the vinegar into a bucket so I could let it settle to see what came out. After it settled and I poured the vinegar off the top. I had about a half cup of white sediment. Even more milky sediment flushed out on the ground as I flushed it all out with clean water. This was only dealing with the radiator as I didn't want the vinegar in my block. After flushing backward and forward and also from the reservoir I capped it back off and filled with a baking soda and water solution to kill off any left over acid. Then I repeated all the flushing back and forth with clean water.

I have a copper wand I made to wash out the radiator, condenser, and oil cooler fins. I can get to both sides of all three and wash from both directions. After I got the loose dirt out I sprayed it all down with air conditioner condenser cleaner and let that soak a while. Then I rinsed them all out from both directions again.

I finished it off by putting a good 180* thermostat back in and putting the coolant back in. The old coolant was clean as the day I put it in and checked to -32 so I reused it. I also replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses.

Took it out back and worked it a while with the heater running. Gauge came up to the halfway mark where it should and stayed there. I won't know till summer if it will stay at the correct temp running the AC in the heat.

It won't be as good as pulling the radiator and taking to a shop for cleaning but hopefully will improve the flow enough to work as long as I want in the heat.

Here are a few pics of the operation:

View attachment 253300

View attachment 253301

View attachment 253303

View attachment 253304

Interesting idea using vinegar. I would want to get some test strips for DCA / SCA type thing. Then use additives and get them in order.

 

[NH575E]

Interesting idea using vinegar. I would want to get some test strips for DCA / SCA type thing. Then use additives and get them in order.

Coolant used was Peak Fleet Charge and distilled water. It was only a few months old and clean so I reused it.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...ged-fully-formulated-antifreeze-coolant-1-gal

At the end of the day I'm not convinced the vinegar removed much sediment but it didn't hurt anything. Probably should have sprung for some phosphoric acid.

Thoroughly washing out all the cooling fins probably did as much as anything. I have been wanting to put the thermostat back to a stock 180 anyway so glad to get that done. If it starts to heat up this summer I will go ahead and pull the radiator and send it to the shop for a proper cleaning. Right now it's coming up to temp and stabilizing as it should. I ran it with the AC on for a while yesterday and no problems.

 

[Toxic]

Gonna need to repack the seals in my 555e dipper/backhoe bucket cylinder..it started leaking all of the sudden bad yesterday. I wish it wasnt -20c out so i could work on it..i am hoping this kit will work..85804743 Backhoe Bucket Cylinder Seal Kit Made For Ford 555E 575E 655E 675E Rod & Bore https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00V3F2YVE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_NQQ2BYKX0RJABYGBNB8R

I currently have leaks in both stablizers one swing clyinder, the relief for boom cylinder and now the dipper clyinder...im glad i got this thing cheap .lol

 

[edgephoto]

I can tell you this. Mercedes and VW/Audi have a cooling system acid that works for cleaning cooling systems and is safe on both their gas and Diesel engines. I would use one of those products to clean the cooling system. If you need part numbers let me know and I can find them.

Also not sure how you drained the coolant but most engines have a block drain the should be removed too. Getting sediment out of a cooling system is a real pain. Takes a ton of labor.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Greased my hoe up today, she going to need it working her hard. Not fun when they go dry on you and you have to spit on your dipper to get some lubrication

 

[NH575E]

Gonna need to repack the seals in my 555e dipper/backhoe bucket cylinder..it started leaking all of the sudden bad yesterday. I wish it wasnt -20c out so i could work on it..i am hoping this kit will work..85804743 Backhoe Bucket Cylinder Seal Kit Made For Ford 555E 575E 655E 675E Rod & Bore https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00V3F2YVE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_NQQ2BYKX0RJABYGBNB8R

I currently have leaks in both stablizers one swing clyinder, the relief for boom cylinder and now the dipper clyinder...im glad i got this thing cheap .lol

Good luck with those cylinder leaks. I have only done my stabilizers and the crowd. Every one has been a challenge getting the right kit. Every one has needed a wiper seal that didn't match what was in the kit. On my stabilizers I machined out the gland to use the wiper seal in the kit since I had access to a lathe at the time.

On my crowd I bought 3 possible kits. NONE had the correct wiper seal. I had to match it up by size and order it off ebay.

I highly recommend Chris at CEA Services. 813-365-0042

He worked with me on the crowd and let me return the two kits I didn't use. You can buy from him direct or off eBay.

 

[NH575E]

I can tell you this. Mercedes and VW/Audi have a cooling system acid that works for cleaning cooling systems and is safe on both their gas and Diesel engines. I would use one of those products to clean the cooling system. If you need part numbers let me know and I can find them.

Also not sure how you drained the coolant but most engines have a block drain the should be removed too. Getting sediment out of a cooling system is a real pain. Takes a ton of labor.

A part number for that cleaner might be great to have for future use.

I didn't bother draining the block because I just wanted to clean the radiator. Never seen a block clog.

I found half a plastic container from a wiper blade would sit in front of the radiator drain and twist 90 degrees to channel the coolant into a bucket and keep it clean. The coolant in the tractor was practically new so I wanted to save and reuse it.

So far it's coming right up to where it should be a stays there for up to 4 hours constant running with the AC on so I think it's gonna be okay. If it does that this summer I should be good to go.

 

[T-town]

That was some day yesterday in NE PA..... 74 and sun after morning showers.
Took advantage of the warmth to get the filters/oil changed. Old girl fired right up after the change.
We had repaired some wear bars on my 18 bucket.... needed to get that ready for footer dig this spring.

Also passed a milestone on the way to the property.... knew it was coming but still missed the event... morning fog I guess.


.... my 2010 1500..... although thats on the body.... put in a Jasper 15k ago

I did get the old hoe up to operating temp, hauled a down tree to the burn pile.... but the ground is too wet to work just yet. Would make more of a mess than you'd get done.... won't be long tho.