Cat D3C sproket hub

[Drag racer]

Cat price is 2200.00 may have found a nos cat gear for 650.00 including shipping.

The 650 gear didn't work out,got lucky found new one appears to be old stock 430 including shipping received today only minor surface rust.

 

[Drag racer]

Thanks for the update. If you adhere to the repair manual for tolerances and specifications there should be no problems with it going back together and yielding a good long service life. I've had them apart in the past where things were put together loose by other parties and it's painful and expensive to re repair something because it was done cheap the first time.

If you have broken gear teeth ensure you flush that cavity very welll with both solvent and hot water to remove any grit that will ineveitably find it's way into roller, or sleeve bearings destroying or shortening the life of your good work.

I am thinking of using awesome or purple power and hot water and use diesel as final flush, any other thoughts that would be better?

 

[1693TA]

I'm sure that would be fine but I like to use mineral spirits as it dries without residue. Purple power in a high concentration works well but not quite as fast. Hard to not rely upon a hot pressure washing to ensure anything is flushed, or blasted clean. Given that everything is hot it dries quickly and doesn't really flash rust. Feel and rotate all your bearings to ensure there is no "notching", grit, or erratic feel to them before going back together.

It looks to me that the tractor stripped off a pinion gear and as it was coming apart pieces rode around in the final housing leaving the damage you see in the bull gear and housing. A prior repair possibly replaced just the pinion gear and maybe a couple of catastrophic failure bearings, put it back together and sold the machine as it would now pull itself again. Unscrupulous sellers aplenty at auctions. All these parts work and wear together and I'm thinking if you don't replace everything in there, your good work will be short lived. As pitted and chaffed as that bull gear is, it's mating pinion is going to wear to match till failure. I really think the complete repair is less expensive to do now rather than later.

I know that is an unsolicited opinion but these things get expensive quick to repair and really aren't worth a lot if not operational. It's apart now and should be repaired correctly while in this condition IMO.

 

[Drag racer]

I'm sure that would be fine but I like to use mineral spirits as it dries without residue. Purple power in a high concentration works well but not quite as fast. Hard to not rely upon a hot pressure washing to ensure anything is flushed, or blasted clean. Given that everything is hot it dries quickly and doesn't really flash rust. Feel and rotate all your bearings to ensure there is no "notching", grit, or erratic feel to them before going back together.

It looks to me that the tractor stripped off a pinion gear and as it was coming apart pieces rode around in the final housing leaving the damage you see in the bull gear and housing. A prior repair possibly replaced just the pinion gear and maybe a couple of catastrophic failure bearings, put it back together and sold the machine as it would now pull itself again. Unscrupulous sellers aplenty at auctions. All these parts work and wear together and I'm thinking if you don't replace everything in there, your good work will be short lived. As pitted and chaffed as that bull gear is, it's mating pinion is going to wear to match till failure. I really think the complete repair is less expensive to do now rather than later.

I know that is an unsolicited opinion but these things get expensive quick to repair and really aren't worth a lot if not operational. It's apart now and should be repaired correctly while in this condition IMO.

 

[Drag racer]

I'm sure that would be fine but I like to use mineral spirits as it dries without residue. Purple power in a high concentration works well but not quite as fast. Hard to not rely upon a hot pressure washing to ensure anything is flushed, or blasted clean. Given that everything is hot it dries quickly and doesn't really flash rust. Feel and rotate all your bearings to ensure there is no "notching", grit, or erratic feel to them before going back together.

It looks to me that the tractor stripped off a pinion gear and as it was coming apart pieces rode around in the final housing leaving the damage you see in the bull gear and housing. A prior repair possibly replaced just the pinion gear and maybe a couple of catastrophic failure bearings, put it back together and sold the machine as it would now pull itself again. Unscrupulous sellers aplenty at auctions. All these parts work and wear together and I'm thinking if you don't replace everything in there, your good work will be short lived. As pitted and chaffed as that bull gear is, it's mating pinion is going to wear to match till failure. I really think the complete repair is less expensive to do now rather than later.

I know that is an unsolicited opinion but these things get expensive quick to repair and really aren't worth a lot if not operational. It's apart now and should be repaired correctly while in this condition IMO.

 

[Drag racer]

Removed bull gear today, don't know when it was replaced pretty rusty no manufacturer markings.Still don't know why it was so beat up it had lot of usage since anyone had it apart.Bearing on shaft is smooth feel no problem with it but you can grasp each side and get up and down movement, replace or not?I did look at some why are the races separate from bearing instead of coming as a set. Attaching pics if I can get them to load,
appreciate any feedback.

Bernard

 

[1693TA]

If it were me, anything that shared that oil supply would be replaced. Something came apart and was not repaired correctly but rather "made" to run and apparently it did till destruction. I'll bet every part in that final has abnormal wear and really shouldn't be trusted. I know it's expensive but doing it again because something wasn't done that should have been is a "double whammy".

If I hadn't seen similar over the years with my own two scopes, I'd be surprised; but I have seen very similar done in the past even quit a job over such practices.

 

[Nige]

I did look at some why are the races separate from bearing instead of coming as a set.?

On that size of taper-roller bearing (on a Cat machine anyway) there are generally always two Part Numbers. One number is for the cone, the inner race/rollers/cage, and the other for the cup, the outer race. Theoretically it gives the possibility of replacing just one part but I can't say it's common to do it that way. All you have to do is order both Part Numbers to make one complete bearing.

Even bearing manufacturers' catalogues show two numbers but that is so that OEM's can select combinations of cup & cone to suit different inner and outer diameters. See this snip from the Timken catalogue how the same cup can be used with different cones.

If it were me, anything that shared that oil supply would be replaced. Something came apart and was not repaired correctly but rather "made" to run and apparently it did till destruction. I'll bet every part in that final has abnormal wear and really shouldn't be trusted.

Agree completely. I have no idea what the bottom line might be and if it's within your budget but I think you should either bite the bullet and do it right one time or wait until you can because doing it half-assed is quite likely to come back and bite you in the derriere.

 

[Welder Dave]

Best to replace all the bearings when you have it apart. I talked to a mechanic who quit a job at a independent repair shop who specialized in JD and also sold used parts. He couldn't in good conscience stand behind the work they told him to send out the door. They had a good enough type attitude and if they didn't have new parts in stock like bearings would reuse the old ones just to get things out the door. The machine had a catastrophic failure so needed to be rebuilt but they reused bearings or used used parts that were not up to spec. The shop owner figured it's all enclosed so the customer will never know. If it fails again must be something the operator did. The mechanic was a very good but couldn't go along with the extremely shady practices and shop policy of just slapping stuff back together as fast as possible. It was an ongoing thing and not isolated to a couple repairs. Kind of shocking to hear how this shop operated. It has since closed.

 

[tctractors]

This Bull Gear looks like something (Try Fancy Nut Here) has come undone loosing the pre-load on the bearings supporting the hub resulting in a good amount of damage, the changed odd nut fastener must have been a will do effort.

 

[Welder Dave]

It is kind of odd. I have heard a D3 doesn't really have enough power to tear itself apart but I guess anything can be abused or poorly maintained.

 

[Acoals]

A lawn mower can tear itself apart . . .

 

[Nige]

This Bull Gear looks like something (Try Fancy Nut Here) has come undone loosing the pre-load on the bearings supporting the hub resulting in a good amount of damage, the changed odd nut fastener must have been a will do effort.

Nasty business when you get loose nuts.........

TBH who knows how many times it has been apart previously.? Probably quite a few.

 

[OzDozer]

The damage looks suspiciously like sabotage to me. It looks like someone threw a handful of nuts and bolts into the FD case.
I've never seen any bull gear so badly damaged, and I've repaired multiple dozens of FD's.

 

[Drag racer]

The damage looks suspiciously like sabotage to me. It looks like someone threw a handful of nuts and bolts into the FD case.
I've never seen any bull gear so badly damaged, and I've repaired multiple dozens of FD's.

Yes and everything else looks new and still operated without noise.

 

[Drag racer]

It is kind of odd. I have heard a D3 doesn't really have enough power to tear itself apart but I guess anything can be abused or poorly maintained.

I see smaller dozers broken routinely everyone can't afford new D 10 s

 

[Drag racer]

This Bull Gear looks like something (Try Fancy Nut Here) has come undone loosing the pre-load on the bearings supporting the hub resulting in a good amount of damage, the changed odd nut fastener must have been a will do effort.

Got correct lock nut for it only 100 .00
Now if I can find a spanner wrench for it cat wants 512.00 .

 

[Welder Dave]

Some kind of vandalism could certainly cause that kind of damage. If it ran out of oil you think it would make some noise. Maybe lots of 3rd gear operation on rough ground or slamming the trans. lever between forward and reverse at full throttle?

 

[Welder Dave]

I see smaller dozers broken routinely everyone can't afford new D 10 s

Usually from abuse and poor maintenance. If an operator tried to do the work of a D6 with D3 is asking for trouble. You have to let the machine do the work at the pace it was designed for. I read on here a while ago that Cat purposely derated/overbuilt their machines so they would last longer compared to AC machines and maybe IH too.

 

[Drag racer]

Usually from abuse and poor maintenance. If an operator tried to do the work of a D6 with D3 is asking for trouble. You have to let the machine do the work at the pace it was designed for. I read on here a while ago that Cat purposely derated/overbuilt their machines so they would last longer compared to AC machines and maybe IH too.

Correct most everything has its benefits on certain jobs .