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Cat D3C sproket hub

Drag racer

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D
I don't know why you quoted my comment but I will say this, Cat builds equipment around the globe, I doubt they all use parts from Davenport Iowa. There are some fine equipment manufacturers in Korea, Hyundai is one but there are others, There will be parts manufactured there as well.
Don't know what you mean about quoting your comment,I was only asking question because I didn't know if they did.
 

OzDozer

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Caterpillar bought a Korean factory and company in 2009, that had been a supplier to Caterpillar in Asia.


There are numerous Korean companies manufacturing aftermarket parts for both Cat and other brands. Here's just a couple of them.

Jeil Hydraulics - https://jeilhyd.co.kr/

KBJ undercarriage - https://hoeleong.com/brands/kbj/

Drag racer, I don't understand what the problem is when you said the quality of the replacement gear is not as good as the original ("inferior metal").
Is the machining on the teeth poorer quality, or is it the forging quality of the unmachined areas is rough?
It could be a Chinese-made gear sold by a Korean parts supplier/exporter.
 

Mcrafty1

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Don't know what you mean about quoting your comment,I was only asking question because I didn't know if they did.
Post #76...on page 4. You quoted a comment I made, and then asked the question, I didn't understand why you quoted that particular comment, not that is matters it just confused me. But then again, I'm living in a state of mass confusion.
 

Drag racer

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Caterpillar bought a Korean factory and company in 2009, that had been a supplier to Caterpillar in Asia.


There are numerous Korean companies manufacturing aftermarket parts for both Cat and other brands. Here's just a couple of them.

Jeil Hydraulics - https://jeilhyd.co.kr/

KBJ undercarriage - https://hoeleong.com/brands/kbj/

Drag racer, I don't understand what the problem is when you said the quality of the replacement gear is not as good as the original ("inferior metal").
Is the machining on the teeth poorer quality, or is it the forging quality of the unmachined areas is rough?
It could be a Chinese-made gear sold by a Korean parts supplier/exporter.
I didn't go back and look at that post but what it should say the replacement seems to be better quality especially the smoothness of the forging.
 

OzDozer

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O.K., I misunderstood what you said earlier. I thought you said the replacement was inferior - after reading your post again, I see you said the old gear was inferior to the replacement.
 

nicky 68a

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england
Have to buy a bull gear part 5G5847 ,
any recommendations on suppliers
and quality prefer to stay away from China.

Thanks for any responses.
It’s difficult to stay away from China.
They can make good stuff,but don’t seem to bother.They are governed by market prices,and we all want cheap apparently
 

Drag racer

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Chisel, punch and hammer? No. For many reasons, no.

That is a bad idea almost anytime, but especially where torque settings matter.
Attached photos of spanner socket with help of friends this should torque spanner nut to 600 ft lbs.
 

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Drag racer

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Anyone know why previous person that was
In this final drive would ever use gasket maker on this bearing retainer?see pic
manual doesn't show any.
I got all new bearings and cups also,
did not want to take any chances even
though bearings looked good.
 

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Drag racer

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Installing duo cone seals using tips I learned here,thanks everyone.On the sprocket hub can't see backside but felt it pop in one spot is 1 mm higher than rest can't get it to change. Hope they don't leak since it may cost 1 grand to get sprocket pressed on.
 

Drag racer

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Pics I forgot to load.
 

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TCat

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Banks, Alabama USA
The 650 gear didn't work out,got lucky found new one appears to be old stock 430 including shipping received today only minor surface rust.
I'm a little late to this thread, but I think you are my brother from another mother..... Awesome deal on a part that was going to be $1000 from Cat.!!!!
 
Last edited:

Nige

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G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
Installing duo cone seals using tips I learned here,thanks everyone.On the sprocket hub can't see backside but felt it pop in one spot is 1 mm higher than rest can't get it to change. Hope they don't leak since it may cost 1 grand to get sprocket pressed on.
IIRC the height tolerance over the full 360 degrees is within 1mm between the highest and lowest points. Also remember that when the sprocket is installed the two halves of the seal will be slightly compressed so, fingers crossed, it ought to sort itself out.
 

tctractors

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Worc U.K.
The retaining ridge that holds the ring in is possibly worn, you can beat an edge into the hub with a ball end hammer if you need to, the seal is installed dry only and no hanging out in a spot will do, the press up chap should see to this detail and have it sorted in a short time, that seal needs to be installed level and tidy else it is not worth pressing up.
 

Drag racer

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The retaining ridge that holds the ring in is possibly worn, you can beat an edge into the hub with a ball end hammer if you need to, the seal is installed dry only and no hanging out in a spot will do, the press up chap should see to this detail and have it sorted in a short time, that seal needs to be installed level and tidy else it is not worth pressing up.
The photo looks like sealing ring is protruding it isn't I used brake clean which the ingredient is same as manual say to use
before installing. It is clean as possible, the assembled height is 8.89 8.62 8.48 8.62 mm
Close as I can get it
Thanks for the input everyone.
 

tctractors

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The photo looks like sealing ring is protruding it isn't I used brake clean which the ingredient is same as manual say to use
before installing. It is clean as possible, the assembled height is 8.89 8.62 8.48 8.62 mm
Close as I can get it
Thanks for the input everyone.
Forget all that measuring crap, if the Toric ring is not placed to look even or equal all around its form, the chances are that seal will fail, how can I say this is just having fitted many 100's of the things and never having any oil leaks, I never measure any seals I fit they just have to look even and uniform.
 

OzDozer

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I'm with tctractors on this. I've also installed hundreds of the Cat metal face/floating seals and never had one leak either. Despite the intensive instructions, the only important points are;

1. Get the seal ring area perfectly clean, and free of nicks and burrs and other damage.

2. Install the toric ring carefully with blunt screwdrivers, ensuring it's not twisted or uneven.

3. Take extra care to ensure the metal seal surfaces are 100% clean, and stay 100% clean and undamaged.

This type of seal is designed to accommodate modest levels of mating component movement. Provided the rubber toric ring stays soft and pliable, they work just fine for many years.

What makes them leak, is running a component out of oil - damage to the seal faces from the ingress of dirt, debris, wire and rocks - and if the component holding the seals runs at high temperature for an extended period, the rubber in the toric ring hardens, and it then loses its ability to accommodate component movement.
 

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Drag racer

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I'm with tctractors on this. I've also installed hundreds of the Cat metal face/floating seals and never had one leak either. Despite the intensive instructions, the only important points are;

1. Get the seal ring area perfectly clean, and free of nicks and burrs and other damage.

2. Install the toric ring carefully with blunt screwdrivers, ensuring it's not twisted or uneven.

3. Take extra care to ensure the metal seal surfaces are 100% clean, and stay 100% clean and undamaged.

This type of seal is designed to accommodate modest levels of mating component movement. Provided the rubber toric ring stays soft and pliable, they work just fine for many years.

What makes them leak, is running a component out of oil - damage to the seal faces from the ingress of dirt, debris, wire and rocks - and if the component holding the seals runs at high temperature for an extended period, the rubber in the toric ring hardens, and it then loses its ability to accommodate component movement.
I agree not having experience with duo cone seals I follow my manual as of now they look great.The old ones had flakes of rust on them and were still not leaking
 

Drag racer

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Well I have been a month trying to get cat to press my sprocket hub on, two different locations said they would do it.I am trying to find another method that I can do myself,any ideas appreciated. I am tired of promises and waiting for Cat to show up and phone calls not returned.
 

OzDozer

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You need a 40 to 50 ton hydraulic press cylinder at minimum - plus a friend or associate with a lathe who can machine up the necessary adaptors for you.
You need a threaded adaptor to fit the end of the sprocket shaft, so you can attach the press cylinder to it.
A two-way press cylinder is ideal, but you could adapt a single-direction cylinder that has a hollow centre. That would mean more work as regards adaptors.

Normally, an adaptor screws to the end of the sprocket shaft and the head of the shaft on the press cylinder is pinned to that adaptor.

A U-shaped or circular adaptor (a length of heavy pipe would be sufficient) is placed between press cylinder and sprocket, and the press cylinder is then operated in reverse to pull the press cylinder shaft in, so pressure is brought to bear on the sprocket by the press cylinder body, thus applying the necessary 35 tons of pressure to the sprocket, so it fits tightly on the taper.
 
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