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Rehabing Case 855D; tracks are very noisy; need some advice please

viking1

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Joined
Oct 14, 2013
Messages
186
Location
AZ
Sometimes it helps to shoot them with your penetrating oil of choice while they are still red hot also. (They usually won't catch fire) Some people like candle wax also. Something about the cooling effect pulling more lube into the spaces. It seems to have worked for me a couple of times.


Thank you Sir, that's real good advice I'll follow. I can hear & smell the sizzle now..... :)
 

DMiller

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Feb 21, 2010
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Hermann, Missouri
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Cheap "old" Geezer
I've been attacking the old trucks on the donor Allis, a sharp hit to the head of the bolts seemed to work on a few of them and I got them to roll out, now I am down to the heat and try again or gas-axe phase for many of them. Once removed I will roll the trucks over and finish removing the remnant pieces I wish to recover then scrap out the final pieces. Many of the old lower boltings had erosion and or contact damage so they may never back out.
 

viking1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2013
Messages
186
Location
AZ
I've been attacking the old trucks on the donor Allis, a sharp hit to the head of the bolts seemed to work on a few of them and I got them to roll out, now I am down to the heat and try again or gas-axe phase for many of them. Once removed I will roll the trucks over and finish removing the remnant pieces I wish to recover then scrap out the final pieces. Many of the old lower boltings had erosion and or contact damage so they may never back out.


Will try the mallet whacks too, D!! Thx!!
 

DMiller

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Feb 21, 2010
Messages
19,244
Location
Hermann, Missouri
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Cheap "old" Geezer
I was using a 4# sledge, just hit square and you won't tend to flare or flatten the heads.
 

viking1

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Oct 14, 2013
Messages
186
Location
AZ
Hi folks. Ever since I rebuilt the bucket cylinders, the lift cylinders are xtremely slow and weak. They dont leak through the wiper muchat all, and the bucket cylinders work great. Any ideas if I might have some type of an air lock in the hydraulic circuit etc? I'm doubting its an internal cylinder problem (as they worked great before the bucket cylinder rebuild).

BTW, got a bit sidetracked restoring an old 1954 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee..... :)
 

DMiller

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Messages
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Hermann, Missouri
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Cheap "old" Geezer
There are internal reliefs on most loader cylinders, could be opening too soon bypassing fluid, could be a restriction in a fitting or line blocking flow forcing a relief open Best to 'T' in a pressure gauge and see if pressure is up or down.
 

viking1

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Joined
Oct 14, 2013
Messages
186
Location
AZ
There are internal reliefs on most loader cylinders, could be opening too soon bypassing fluid, could be a restriction in a fitting or line blocking flow forcing a relief open Best to 'T' in a pressure gauge and see if pressure is up or down.



Thx D, a couple of questions:

1)where do put the "T" (ie which line), and what PSI am I looking for?
2)How would this problem arise so suddenly when they were working OK before I did the bucket cylinders?
 

DMiller

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Messages
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Hermann, Missouri
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Cheap "old" Geezer
Would end up locating the line off the control assembly that feeds the push side of the ram(lift), with my type of luck you will end up testing the opposite side first the pull side(lower). Will have to access the pivot point of the cylinder, locate the tractor side of the lines and disassemble there.

IF by chance the ram seals were possible installed backward the ram will not develop enough pressure to make lift as most will be bypassing could be that reason. Otherwise as stated could be trash in a relief or a broken spring. When a lift cylinder pushes, it is also forcing oil on the opposite side back to tank, that fluid flow becomes restricted in any way and it will slow the process, if the flow is excessive due to leakby at the relief on the push side then again it will have slow travel time. Another test is to try to dig with it to see if there is any breakout force or down pressure either for that matter. Arms do not push down to lift the tractor or cannot lift a measure of material the cylinders will need to come back off.
 

viking1

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Joined
Oct 14, 2013
Messages
186
Location
AZ
Would end up locating the line off the control assembly that feeds the push side of the ram(lift), with my type of luck you will end up testing the opposite side first the pull side(lower). Will have to access the pivot point of the cylinder, locate the tractor side of the lines and disassemble there.

IF by chance the ram seals were possible installed backward the ram will not develop enough pressure to make lift as most will be bypassing could be that reason. Otherwise as stated could be trash in a relief or a broken spring. When a lift cylinder pushes, it is also forcing oil on the opposite side back to tank, that fluid flow becomes restricted in any way and it will slow the process, if the flow is excessive due to leakby at the relief on the push side then again it will have slow travel time. Another test is to try to dig with it to see if there is any breakout force or down pressure either for that matter. Arms do not push down to lift the tractor or cannot lift a measure of material the cylinders will need to come back off.


OK D, I see the confusion now. I rebuilt the BUCKET cylinders, and they are working just fine. The lift cylinders were NOT rebuilt (and are now the problem), and were working fine before I rebuilt the bucket cylinders.
 

alrman

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Jun 20, 2009
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SE QLD Australia
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Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
Do the crowd cylinders load the engine when fully stalled, more than the lift?
You have 2 levers for the hydraulic controls? Does the Aux control load the engine as much as the crowd?
Try using the lift & then pressurizing the crowd, or the aux, to full relief pressure at the same time, does it improve the speed/power of the lift?
 

viking1

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Oct 14, 2013
Messages
186
Location
AZ
Do the crowd cylinders load the engine when fully stalled, more than the lift?
You have 2 levers for the hydraulic controls? Does the Aux control load the engine as much as the crowd?
Try using the lift & then pressurizing the crowd, or the aux, to full relief pressure at the same time, does it improve the speed/power of the lift?


Hi Alr, the machine has one lever for all the cylinders. Side-to-side moves the bucket cylinders; front-to-back lifts the loader up & down. The cylinder speed/strength DOES increase slightly when revving the engine.....
 

alrman

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Increasing the RPM should make a difference. In your earlier pictures I can see another control lever (auxilary) beside the lift/tilt control. Is it attached to the valve?
When you fully crowd or roll the bucket, & you continue to hold it there under pressure, does it load the engine up more than when you hold pressure on the lift?
 

viking1

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Oct 14, 2013
Messages
186
Location
AZ
Increasing the RPM should make a difference. In your earlier pictures I can see another control lever (auxilary) beside the lift/tilt control. Is it attached to the valve?
When you fully crowd or roll the bucket, & you continue to hold it there under pressure, does it load the engine up more than when you hold pressure on the lift?




The 2nd control switches the hydraulcs from the front bucket to the backhoe/quick connects. Yes, rolling the bucket has always placed more strain on the engine/pumpthan using the lift cylinders.....
 

alrman

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I'm assuming the aux hydraulics to the hoe are going through the main control valve? Or is there another valve?
Does moving the aux lever load the engine the same as the crowd?
If so, while using the lift, stroke the aux lever to full pressure - the lift should noticeably speed up.
 

viking1

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Joined
Oct 14, 2013
Messages
186
Location
AZ
I'm assuming the aux hydraulics to the hoe are going through the main control valve? Or is there another valve?
Does moving the aux lever load the engine the same as the crowd?
If so, while using the lift, stroke the aux lever to full pressure - the lift should noticeably speed up.


Ya Alr; only the one valve. Wont fluid shoot out of the disconnected hoses if I switch over the valve to the backhoe side, or are the quick connect couplers enough to stop that from happening? I havent moved the aux lever since I took the hoe out of service.....
 

alrman

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If the hoses are capped (I hope they are) or if there are QR fittings fitted at the rear of the machine, yes, they will take the pressure.
 

viking1

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Messages
186
Location
AZ
If the hoses are capped (I hope they are) or if there are QR fittings fitted at the rear of the machine, yes, they will take the pressure.

ALR, QR fittings held the pressure fine. Moving the aux lever seemed to load the engine as much as rolling the bucket cylinders. The lift cylinders definitely move faster/stronger at full throttle.
 

alrman

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Moving the aux lever seemed to load the engine as much as rolling the bucket cylinders. The lift cylinders definitely move faster/stronger at full throttle.
I need you you to test the lift speed & power, while pressurizing the aux control - using two hands, both levers (lift & aux) at the same time.
Use lower revs about 1200-1500 & look for speed increase in the lift while pressurizing the aux.
 

viking1

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Oct 14, 2013
Messages
186
Location
AZ
I need you you to test the lift speed & power, while pressurizing the aux control - using two hands, both levers (lift & aux) at the same time.
Use lower revs about 1200-1500 & look for speed increase in the lift while pressurizing the aux.




Didnt seem to affect lift speed when I pressurized the aux. Only increased engine revs seem to be doing that.
 
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