2004 International 7300

[materthegreater]

Thanks for the info, supposedly the parts will be in today. Apparently the dealer's system gave them the wrong part numbers for my VIN so they got the wrong bushings.

The upper pin came out easily, lower isn't budging. Time for the cutting torch.

 

[materthegreater]

I ain't a mechanic, but that gap doesn't look good. Maybe if one took those 4 bolts out from below it on that plate of steel after 24 hrs of soaking in PB blaster and some heat with a nut to weld on later after you snap the bolts to get the there stud out you might find after coaxing a king pin of sorts and maybe some shims or something should of went there.
Might be part of the problem, I guess......
View attachment 291428

Yeah there's a $300+ thrust bearing that goes in there. The bolts came out easily, but the pin is seized in the knuckle. Soaking with penetrating oil and lots of heat hasn't worked yet so I'm going to try to cut it out today.

 

[materthegreater]

Didn't have to torch it out after all. Driving it around for a couple days without the bolts in probably helped loosen it up

 

[cfherrman]

Lol nice

 

[materthegreater]

Two types-closed and open knuckle yours is open. The PDF DM provided is close enough.
Onne issue is the dirt in the axle tubes to clean before assembly. The bolts normally come
out it's getting the frozen upper and lower pin bosses removed, and some come apart easy.

I kept a rag in the axle tube seal so it stayed clean. Put a magnet down it also and didn't come back with anything significant. The oil looked really clean also so I think it's ok. Decided to put a new seal in while I was there anyway.

 

[materthegreater]

New lower pin and thrust bearing. $1200 for those two, not including the bushing and seals.







It seems the cap ("expansion plug" according to Meritor) that keeps the grease in was either not installed correctly or somehow got dislodged over the years. The grease was just escaping out the top and not getting to the bushing or the thrust bearing. (New cap shown in previous post and above bushing in this picture)

 

[materthegreater]

Double post

 

[Truck Shop]

Hope you used lots of anti-seize.

 

[materthegreater]

I actually used gasket maker where the lower pin mates with the knuckle. Figured it would seal out moisture and likely last longer than anti-seize. Bolts are getting anti-seize.

 

[materthegreater]

What I'd like to know is how to keep the brake shoe pins from seizing in place. Is this good enough?


What about the dust shields, are they necessary? They pretty much disintegrated into a pile of rust.

 

[Truck Shop]

What about the dust shields, are they necessary?

In some ways having dust shields makes more issues, traps dirt and moisture. I use to remove
them on drop axle/steer axles. Traps sand in winter. Easier to inspect.

 

[materthegreater]

In some ways having dust shields makes more issues, traps dirt and moisture. I use to remove
them on drop axle/steer axles. Traps sand in winter. Easier to inspect.

Perfect, exactly what I was hoping.

 

[materthegreater]

"Range Inhibited" and the number on the shifter console flashes.

I get this message sometimes when I put it in gear after starting it. Let it idle for 15-30 seconds and it'll go into gear normally and work fine until I shut off the truck.

I thought it was doing that to allow the transmission to warm up/circulate oil etc. But often it does it even when the truck is warm, and sometimes it doesn't do it when it's cold.

Any ideas? I'd really like to find an operator's manual for the transmission that explains this and other features. It's an Allison MD3060P.

 

[mekanik]

Range inhibited is programmed in the system controller. Depending on the application. The bucket and boom trucks I used to work on would give you the range inhibited message if you tried to engage the transmission with the outriggers down or the PTO engaged. The newer Internationals require a brake application being made when engaging the transmission or you get "range inhibited".
You might be engaging the transmission too fast after releasing the park brake. If you engage the transmission with the park brake applied do you get the range inhibited message?

 

[materthegreater]

Once it's past it's "waiting period" it'll go into gear regardless of whether the service brake pedal is pressed or the parking brake is engaged. I haven't tried it with the PTO engaged. Normally I only engage the PTO when I'm ready to dump a load.

 

[materthegreater]

Today it hasn't yet given me the range inhibited message for a dozen or so starts. Seems weird that it does it sometimes but not others.

 

[mekanik]

If everything is functioning as it should I doubt there is a serious problem. The engine ECU, IDM, ABS module, TCU, ESC, and instrument panel all communicate on the data link. There could be a problem with the data link but I doubt it.
I would start at the batteries and clean all the terminals and fuse holders and connectors in the battery box. There should be one in there with a fuse for the transmission. Then at the top left of the firewall there are some ground studs and maxi-fuses where the ESC gets its power. ESC is the body module or electronic system controller. Clean and apply dielectric grease to all the connections at that area of the firewall and see if the Range Inhibit message goes away.

 

[materthegreater]

Ok, I will try that. Thanks

 

[mekanik]

Here is a link to an operators manual for your MD3060P transmission

https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1208&d=1251681881

 

[materthegreater]

Thank you! That is very helpful