materthegreater
Senior Member
Time for some broken stud extraction...
-
Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!
2004 International 7300
- Thread starter materthegreater
- Start date
Time for some broken stud extraction...
colson04
Senior Member
Oof, that sucks.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
Those-the hub is best removed, set up in a bridgeport, in most cases it's easier to just replace
the entire hub with used. International brand drive axle or Eaton, Rockwell?
materthegreater
Senior Member
I didn't realize it would be that involved to remove the remains. I figured a left hand drill and fluted ez out would do the trick. Or welding a piece of tubing to it.
Now I'm wondering why it broke. The rest seem fine- I didn't remove them but put a socket on them and none of them were loose like this one was.
I assumed it was a Meritor axle since that's what the front axle and transfer case are, but when I looked briefly this morning I couldn't find markings on it. I will need to clean it and look more thoroughly, or maybe try to get the build sheet from the dealer.
Now I'm wondering why it broke. The rest seem fine- I didn't remove them but put a socket on them and none of them were loose like this one was.
I assumed it was a Meritor axle since that's what the front axle and transfer case are, but when I looked briefly this morning I couldn't find markings on it. I will need to clean it and look more thoroughly, or maybe try to get the build sheet from the dealer.
materthegreater
Senior Member
So, it is a Meritor RS-19-145 with a "no spin" differential.
mekanik
Senior Member
I would sure try to get the broken stud out before replacing the hub. They can be tough to get out sometimes.
materthegreater
Senior Member
What is this little sensor in the AC line?
There is another sensor on the other end of the same line that seems to be a pressure sensor. This Dorman pressure switch is what it looks like. Not the same as the one in the above photo.
mekanik
Senior Member
They are thermistors or temperature sensors there are two of them. The originals that came installed from new all leaked badly after a couple years. Navistar makes a thermistor kit with updated thermistors that don't leak.
The system has to be evacuated to replace the thermistors.
The system has to be evacuated to replace the thermistors.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
Depending on ratio-I know where one is setting.
materthegreater
Senior Member
The other is on top of the accumulator in the first picture? The dealer gave me a price of $173 one, and they didn't mention a kit.
materthegreater
Senior Member
5.86. From what I've gathered, you are on the other side of the country so it might be too far away.
mekanik
Senior Member
The kit part number is: 2606229C92
It comes with new connector bodies and terminals and shrink tube. I only ever replaced the thermistors and reused the old connectors with a 100% success rate.
It comes with new connector bodies and terminals and shrink tube. I only ever replaced the thermistors and reused the old connectors with a 100% success rate.
materthegreater
Senior Member
Thanks, I'll have to get the system evacuated and then see if this fixes the problem.
materthegreater
Senior Member
I seem to be having an electrical issue recently that I think is affecting the ignition circuit. It may be related to the range inhibited problem but I don't know for sure.
Occasionally, since I've had the truck (2 years, 5000 miles & 300 hours approximately), it will have a split second skip when it's running. Last week, I had left it running while I was loading some gravel and when I got out of the loader I noticed that it wasn't running. I thought that was weird but it started right up and I didn't think much of it. Then later it cut out completely when I was driving down the road. It kept doing it intermittently, sometimes stalling completely and sometimes recovering. When it does this, there is a lot of light grayish smoke coming out the exhaust from unburned fuel apparently. At first I thought it was a plugged fuel filter but it's too abrupt cutting out and recovering to be that (I did check the fuel screen before the filter just to be sure. It had a little crud in it but not enough to cause it to completely cut out). I cleaned all the electrical connections on the left side of the firewall, but it has done it briefly since then. I'm wondering if maybe the CPS is on its way out. I checked the wire connection to it and it wasn't loose, but haven't investigated that further. Any other ideas of what to check? Does this have an electric lift pump? I didn't see any evidence of one.
Occasionally, since I've had the truck (2 years, 5000 miles & 300 hours approximately), it will have a split second skip when it's running. Last week, I had left it running while I was loading some gravel and when I got out of the loader I noticed that it wasn't running. I thought that was weird but it started right up and I didn't think much of it. Then later it cut out completely when I was driving down the road. It kept doing it intermittently, sometimes stalling completely and sometimes recovering. When it does this, there is a lot of light grayish smoke coming out the exhaust from unburned fuel apparently. At first I thought it was a plugged fuel filter but it's too abrupt cutting out and recovering to be that (I did check the fuel screen before the filter just to be sure. It had a little crud in it but not enough to cause it to completely cut out). I cleaned all the electrical connections on the left side of the firewall, but it has done it briefly since then. I'm wondering if maybe the CPS is on its way out. I checked the wire connection to it and it wasn't loose, but haven't investigated that further. Any other ideas of what to check? Does this have an electric lift pump? I didn't see any evidence of one.
mekanik
Senior Member
Cam Position Sensor can cause it yes. Give the three wires on the connector the ten pound pull test, the wire can break inside the insulation where it meets the connector. There should be a small clip with a tiny zip tie holding the wire near the connector to a bracket near the CPS. if its missing the wire can fail over time.
I used to replace the CPS periodically on the trucks I looked after as a maintenance item.
I used to replace the CPS periodically on the trucks I looked after as a maintenance item.
mekanik
Senior Member
Can you scan it and see if there are any faults?
materthegreater
Senior Member
Thanks Terry, I'll check those things. I think I can borrow a Nexiq to check for faults.
materthegreater
Senior Member
materthegreater
Senior Member
In doing some reading about these, I'm finding that the new CPS may need to be shimmed, which may require a special dial indicator to measure the thickness of shims needed. Does that sound right?
mekanik
Senior Member
I put them in the bore in the front cover and if the flange on the sensor contacts the front cover the bolt goes in and the connector goes on. If there is a gap between the sensor and the cover measure it with a feeler gauge and add an extra .005" for clearance. I have yet to see one that needed a shim.