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2004 International 7300

materthegreater

materthegreater

Senior Member
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Jul 25, 2012
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676
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VT
Keith Merrell said:
Are you planning on putting in an air tailgate actuator? If you do this is what I use: https://mpparts.com/part/automann-179-sc30rl-tailgate-chamber-with-long-push-rod-179sc30rl
Also, good for you getting the air pintle. I never had a problem with the truck being slammed back and forth when I had a standard pintle, however a friend of mine told me once about when he was pulling wiggle wagons and stopped into the scales they pulled him aside and pointed at the pintle connection and he said he saw with wide eyes his pintle latch was open but the air actuator had held it for 40 miles :eek:
Click to expand...

Yes I was planning to upgrade to air tailgate at some point. Thanks for the tip.

I originally wasn't going to get the air hitch but changed my mind before I ordered parts. I'm thinking I'll like having it.
 
materthegreater

materthegreater

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colson04 said:
I had an early 90s international plow truck with a DT466 and Allison transmission (MT653). Mine had a block heater for those extra cold days. Hit up the Google machine, or call your IH dealer and get a block heater for your truck. They are very simple to install and make a world of difference in reliably cold starting the engine. My truck was mechanical injection, and started really quick down to about 20F. Below that and it cranked a little more before starting, but always started.
Click to expand...

I found a block heater listed online but it's out of stock (big surprise). I'll try calling the dealer tomorrow. It just surprised me that it didn't already have one since it's been in NH & VT all it's life.

Supposed to be 12 below zero (Fahrenheit) at 7 tomorrow morning. We'll see if she wants to go or not. Haven't been driving it regularly so the batteries probably aren't topped up.
 
Willie B

Willie B

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Mount Tabor VT
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I'm not convinced it's about oil getting thick. New oil is pretty resistant to thickening.
I've heard some experts claim -10 lead acid batteries give out 40% of their power compared to summer.
A diesel engine gets ignition by compressing the heat of a large cylinder of air into a small space. Same value of BTUs in smaller space, temperature rises. Sometimes it only needs a small supplement of heat. Some engines get grid heaters in the air intake, amazing how well they work. I've used a heat gun down the air intake, even a hair dryer helps.
 
materthegreater

materthegreater

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I'm thinking it's the hydraulic oil that puts so much extra load on it when it's this cold. The pump whines something awful when it does start at cold temps. I did think about adding a grid heater but didn't spend a lot of time looking for one. I need to get a cordless Milwaukee heat gun for when I don't have access to AC power
 
materthegreater

materthegreater

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Getting ready to mount the fenders. Any tips or guidelines for drilling the frame? I may be able to use 2 pre existing holes but the others will need drilled.
 
materthegreater

materthegreater

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Good to know.

After a little more looking, I may be able to remove one of the studs that holds the overload spring perch to the frame and use a longer bolt for both the perch and fender bracket. Any reason not to do this?
 
Willie B

Willie B

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materthegreater said:
Good to know.

After a little more looking, I may be able to remove one of the studs that holds the overload spring perch to the frame and use a longer bolt for both the perch and fender bracket. Any reason not to do this?
Click to expand...
I think frame rivets must either be put there hot, or headed under extreme hydraulic pressure. Blacksmiths use the word "upset" The shank of them are squeezed until they are whiskey barrel shaped, to be very tight in the hole. They are not easy to remove, and impossible to replace as tightly with a bolt. I think I'd opt for new holes mid rail. Keep them small as possible.

Frame bolts are strong, likely greater than grade 8. They have flanged head & nut, fine thread. Most are serrated to grip the frame & not loosen.
 
materthegreater

materthegreater

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Good points Willie. But these don't seem to be rivets or bolts. They look like a pressed in stud like used for the wheels. I wouldn't consider it for the main spring perches, but this would just be one of three for the overload spring perches. I take some pictures later on.

Mekanik, here is a picture of the dash when keyed on. I'll investigate the intake plumbing next time I have the hood open.

PXL_20220202_151254584.jpg
 
materthegreater

materthegreater

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2012
Messages
676
Location
VT
Pipe from turbo to intercooler
PXL_20220202_153743746.jpg

Pipe from intercooler to intake manifold

PXL_20220202_153720199.MP.jpg

Where would a grid heater normally be?
 
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