2004 International 7300

[materthegreater]

Understood. Thanks!

 

[Willie B]

I'm not a truck mechanic. I really don't know anything about removing factory hardware like you are asking.

That said, a light hand with a torch on the bolt, or a grinder, would remove the huck bolt easily enough.

I wonder how they are tightened? Don't look as though a wrench would fit nut or bolt.

 

[colson04]

I wonder how they are tightened? Don't look as though a wrench would fit nut or bolt.

They aren't a true bolt. You have to have a special installation tool to install that swage locks them together.

 

[Willie B]

That's pretty cool.

 

[materthegreater]

I'm finally getting back to working on this truck. I've seen some trucks with a spacer between the truck frame and the dump body frame. Sometimes steel, sometimes rubber. Other trucks, nothing at all. What's the reasoning for any of these options?

 

[Truck Shop]

Mainly to stop wear on the top of rail, sometimes it's because the pin bosses were installed on truck first
and box bought later.

 

[materthegreater]

That makes sense, thanks

 

[cfherrman]

On the shifter, you are setting the maximum gear, it will drive like the auto in a pickup otherwise. Put it in 5 and forget about it. If you think it's not downshifting enough on hills you can shift it down to get more engine braking. If you pick too low of gear it most likely won't grab the gear or basically act like it's in neutral till the engine rpms would be in range then it might grab the gear. I don't think the 3000 has a deep reduction first but if it does it won't use 1st at all unless you put it in that gear.

On the pto does yours have a front engine pto?

 

[Willie B]

That makes sense, thanks

When I bought the C65 with Heil Dump body It had wooden strips installed as a padding between. I believe it wasn't routed for rivet heads, they just compressed into the wood over time.
This being VT, salt was pretty hard on the truck frame. The wood kept it wet much longer than it would have stayed wet otherwise. I bought the 1976 truck 29 years old from a summer only business in PA. Frame looked very good. 15 years later in VT, it didn't look near as good. I shy away from anything where two layers are sandwiched together. Where something does have to bolt to the frame, I use rustproof grease between layers.

 

[materthegreater]

On the shifter, you are setting the maximum gear, it will drive like the auto in a pickup otherwise. Put it in 5 and forget about it. If you think it's not downshifting enough on hills you can shift it down to get more engine braking. If you pick too low of gear it most likely won't grab the gear or basically act like it's in neutral till the engine rpms would be in range then it might grab the gear. I don't think the 3000 has a deep reduction first but if it does it won't use 1st at all unless you put it in that gear.

On the pto does yours have a front engine pto?

Ok, that's good info.

It has a hydraulic pump on the trans pto, and also a pump on the front of the crankshaft

 

[materthegreater]

When I bought the C65 with Heil Dump body It had wooden strips installed as a padding between. I believe it wasn't routed for rivet heads, they just compressed into the wood over time.
This being VT, salt was pretty hard on the truck frame. The wood kept it wet much longer than it would have stayed wet otherwise. I bought the 1976 truck 29 years old from a summer only business in PA. Frame looked very good. 15 years later in VT, it didn't look near as good. I shy away from anything where two layers are sandwiched together. Where something does have to bolt to the frame, I use rustproof grease between layers.

I agree, less places for salt and moisture to hide is better. Once I'm done with all the fab work I will give it a good dose of NH oil.

 

[cfherrman]

What does the crank pto do?

The crank pto is on all the time, you will have to see what kind of pump it is. If it looks like a normal pump look at the pressure line to see if there is a tee and a valve to the tank. If so you open that valve and the pump can't build any pressure and just flows to the tank. If there is none you can put a tee and a valve to the tank to 'turn off' the hydraulic pump. Works but not the best.

If the pump doesn't look like a simple normal one it should be a variable displacement pump, which is the correct application for a crank pto pump. There is a lever on them operated by a push pull cable, air, or electric to vary the displacement from full to minimum. At min it will flow about 1 gpm to keep the pump lubricated and this is essentially off. The lever may not be visible from the outside.

 

[cfherrman]

Modes on the trans I don't really know about, economy probably makes it shift later. I'd just keep it in power mode you don't want a auto to be on fluid drive much it heats them up and burns them out. Keep trans 220 and under, 240+ bring money with you.

 

[materthegreater]

Sorry I've been meaning to take a picture of the crank pump but keep forgetting. There are no controls on the pump, only two hoses. I'll have to look at the pressure line. This truck was built in 04 so I doubt it's a variable displacement pump.

I'll have to report back after I get a chance to play with the modes on the transmission. It doesn't have a trans temp gauge so maybe I should look into adding one.

 

[materthegreater]

This pump is for the plow and sander.

The trans pto pump is for the dump

 

[cfherrman]

I figured it was for the plow.

If it were mine I'd try to install a tee and valve in the new tees side to the tank so you can "turn off" the pump. I dislike running hydraulics when your not using them.

 

[mekanik]

There are two U-joints in the shaft driving the pump. neglecting them can be catastrophic.

 

[Willie B]

Looks like a conventional gear pump, open center. Oil not doing work flows to the tank. These suck engine power, but are otherwise trouble free. I wanted it for my dump system but geometry prohibited it. I ended up with PTO with married pump for dump hydraulics.

 

[materthegreater]

I've made slow progress on this truck over the summer. Finally have hinges built and lift cylinder roughed in.



Still need to build the doghouse and modify the cab shield. When I wanted to test my work, the cylinder leaked badly (used craigslist deal). So I took it back off and was able to get two of the stages apart but can't get the brass nut off the biggest one. Any ideas? It won't even budge

 

[Keith Merrell]

Torch and pipe wrench? Air chisel? My only ideas but I am kind of a hack...