2020 Deere 333g hydraulic oil overheating

[Billyg371]

Just purchased a used 2020 333g with 820 hrs from a local dealer.
Serial number: 1T0333GMJKF367897

I also purchased a brand new Fecon 7618 mulcher. It was delivered to my property yesterday morning and I got to work. It was 28 degrees and within 30 minutes of running at full RPM I got an overheat alarm and required me to shut down. I was shocked. Brush was not big in my opinion. I let it cool down and opened up the compartment to make sure everything was clean. No visual blockages from debris but blew it out with compressed air anyway. Fired it back up and ran it at 2000 rpm’s and was able to go for a couple hours with no issue and no high temp. Kept the display on the hyd temp which was running around 175-185.

Trying to figure out why I can’t run full throttle, rev fan is working. It looks like I have the white fan which from what I understand is an older version? Not sure. I’m super new to the track loaders but mechanically inclined.
Any insight would be great!
Thanks!
Billy

 

[8V71]

Make sure the flow to the attachment is set in a loop setting not in a double acting. As in the flow is able to run through the attachment back through the filter to the tank and not back through the valve. I also like to check the hydraulic couplers to the attachment if applicable. They can sometimes cause reactions. Also, check to see if the attachment motor has a case drin and make sure that is not excessive. Just some quick checks to start with.

 

[8V71]

Oh and welcome to HEF

 

[8V71]

Correction (cause restrictions)

 

[mg2361]

Welcome to HEF Biilyg371!

Retrieve the specific code/codes from your monitor and post them please. Need to know if it is engine overheat, hydraulic overheat, or both. Once we know which circuit, I would suggest a temperature gun to confirm it is in fact that hot.

Look at your fan. Is it turning? When the temperature goes up, is it turning faster? When the alarm comes on, is the fan screaming?

 

[Billyg371]

Welcome to HEF Biilyg371!

Retrieve the specific code/codes from your monitor and post them please. Need to know if it is engine overheat, hydraulic overheat, or both. Once we know which circuit, I would suggest a temperature gun to confirm it is in fact that hot.

Look at your fan. Is it turning? When the temperature goes up, is it turning faster? When the alarm comes on, is the fan screaming?

No active codes, it is hydraulic temp. Engine temp is sitting around 165. Working on getting a temp gun. Fan seems to turn the same speed as what the engine is set at but I would have to confirm that with a photo tach.

 

[KSSS]

Was the attachment set up for the specs of the JD? Assuming there is nothing wrong with the CTL, I would say that either the motor in the Fecon is too small creating a restriciton to flow, or the settings on the Fecon are incorrect, also creating a restriction to flow. When I set up my Diamond Mower mulcher to my machine, the Eaton motor had to be set up for the flow and PSI to my 450B. Even if Fecon said it would work on that machine, that doesn't mean that someone actually set it up or that they did it correctly.

 

[Vetech63]

Working on getting a temp gun.

Do this immediately. You have to confirm with temp readings that the hydraulics are actually overheating to continue. Have you flash lighted the inside part of the hydraulic cooler core? It can be a bitch to see but it's important to check for grass/dirt obstruction.

 

[Billyg371]

Was the attachment set up for the specs of the JD? Assuming there is nothing wrong with the CTL, I would say that either the motor in the Fecon is too small creating a restriciton to flow, or the settings on the Fecon are incorrect, also creating a restriction to flow. When I set up my Diamond Mower mulcher to my machine, the Eaton motor had to be set up for the flow and PSI to my 450B. Even if Fecon said it would work on that machine, that doesn't mean that someone actually set it up or that they did it correctly.

Working on getting this done this week. I was unaware that it needed to be tuned, I figured the dealer would have done that before delivery. I was able to tune the drum speed to the correct rpm per Fecon (2400) but I did not have a gauge to check the shift pressure.

 

[Billyg371]

Do this immediately. You have to confirm with temp readings that the hydraulics are actually overheating to continue. Have you flash lighted the inside part of the hydraulic cooler core? It can be a bitch to see but it's important to check for grass/dirt obstruction.

Where should I shoot temp? Radiators on the left side of the machine, the little one that rotates out when you remove the pin I have looked through and blown out along with the one behind it. One on the right side of machine I have also blown out. Thanks for all the help. This is my first track loader. Service manual ordered so I should be in good shape.

 

[Vetech63]

Air won't penetrate packed dirt. you will have to pressure wash with water from the outside in. A garden hose will not put out enough pressure either so I wouldn't waste my time doing that.

 

[Billyg371]

Air won't penetrate packed dirt. you will have to pressure wash with water from the outside in. A garden hose will not put out enough pressure either so I wouldn't waste my time doing that.

I’ll take a look. I couldn’t see any packed dirt in either of them.

 

[KSSS]

Working on getting this done this week. I was unaware that it needed to be tuned, I figured the dealer would have done that before delivery. I was able to tune the drum speed to the correct rpm per Fecon (2400) but I did not have a gauge to check the shift pressure.

Yea it should have been set up for the machine before they sent it out the door. Mulching is its own beast, if your dealer doesn't sell a lot of these, they likely had no idea. Because it got hot so fast, I would bet that it was going over relief quickly, which heats up the hyd in short order. Reducing the RPM lowers the GPM, which would explain why it last longer before it got hot. Hopefully once it is set up everything works as it should.

 

[Billyg371]

Yea it should have been set up for the machine before they sent it out the door. Mulching is its own beast, if your dealer doesn't sell a lot of these, they likely had no idea. Because it got hot so fast, I would bet that it was going over relief quickly, which heats up the hyd in short order. Reducing the RPM lowers the GPM, which would explain why it last longer before it got hot. Hopefully once it is set up everything works as it should.

Well the tech came out yesterday and tuned the machine. Told me to sent the machine RPM to 2500. Well 45 mins after cutting little stuff in 68 degree weather I got another high temp hydraulic alarm. He’s going to look into the machine side of things and service history as it was service religiously at their dealer. Hopefully they can figure out why the hydraulics are getting hot.

 

[KSSS]

After they get it figured out, please let us know what they find out, I would like to hear. Hopefully the dealer stands behind the machine. Unless there was some kind of extended warranty on it, they likely will have to pay to fix it, that could be expensive.

 

[Billyg371]

He’s out here now, tuning the head again. Says machine is okay. But the pump on the Fecon is hot for sure.

 

[mg2361]

Have the tech perform a case drain leakage test for the auxiliary quick couplers. I suspect there might be leakage in the quick coupler manifold.

 

[Billyg371]

Little update, they ordered the flow adjuster for the Fecon because it seems like it’s not adjusting properly. But told me I can run it at 2000 rpm’s for the time being. Well I ran it this morning with no issue, got back in after lunch and ran for 15mins. Now I have an high engine oil temp. Before I shut it down I hopped out to check the fan and it was not turning. Looked like it was trying to but wasn’t. Quick shut it down and now cooling off. Idk what I should do about this thing. Hopefully the dealer can come pick it up and get it sorted out.

 

[KSSS]

Was it engine oil temp or coolant temp? Maybe once this gets fixed, you may want to consider an extended warranty. While new parts can fail, it doesn't sound like they are for sure its the Fecon. I am now curious if its not a fan engagement issue from the beginning.

 

[Billyg371]

Was it engine oil temp or coolant temp? Maybe once this gets fixed, you may want to consider an extended warranty. While new parts can fail, it doesn't sound like they are for sure its the Fecon. I am now curious if its not a fan engagement issue from the beginning.

Good question, I thought the other digital gauge on the display was engine oil temp? But it could be engine coolant temp. Yeah I don’t think they know exactly what’s going on. I let it cool down again and pulled the head off and put the bucket on. Within 15 mins the digital gauge temp was back up to 190 while yesterday I never saw that gauge higher than 165. I appreciate the help. Im trying to learn as much as I can