Billyg371
Active Member
Little update that isn’t really great. Ran it today with a root rake grapple and saw 175 hydraulic temps and 195 coolant temps. I’m getting very frustrated.
So another thing I had found is that I do not have 3/4 couplers. I have stock couplers on the machine. But I’m going to measure today to make sure. If anyone would like to help me brainstorm or just talk me off the ledge my number is 570-956-2081. I’m going to be working all day day, hopefully in the machineHaving read back through all of this, the problem has to be the fan or maybe the radiator. The heat problem fluctuates between hyd. and engine coolant. The reason the hyd temps stayed down this time was because the grapple bucket presents little resistance. I think MG's is on the right track pointing out that the pump that spins the fan was never actually checked. I don't envy you, hopefully the dealer will continue to work with you, however at some point they are going to cut you off whether that machine is fixed or not. I hope I am wrong, but by the dealer claiming it works as it should, tells me that day is getting close. Your probably going to have to make some financially painful decisions pretty soon. Pay someone else to work through this, trade the machine off on something else.
Very much agree! ..........and remember, a mulcher's flow requirements are very different from a grapple and the way they operate hydraulically is apples and oranges.We see many of these machines with this complaint. We have one in the shop now. Overheats when running a cold planer. We fix EVERY one of them successfully. There has to be a thoughtful systematic approach to troubleshooting these units. The obvious is checked like coolant level and condition, radiator cleanliness, baffles in place, fan turning, etc (we have seen many simple causes), but the red flag for me is the OP mentioned in post #18 that the fan stopped turning. The ONLY reason for the fan to stop turning is debris in the system. That fan HAS to be turning, always. The software never commands a fan to stop (except when reversing). So, what debris and where did it come from? That is why return screens and filters have to be inspected. Flow tests performed on the charge pump (have seen these fail) and possibly the main hydraulic pump and the high flow pump (have seen some failures with these causing the debris also). We have also seen our fair share of drive motor failures causing debris. So there are a lot of variables that have to be eliminated to reach a successful conclusion.
After reading the tech's service report, someone just assumed the fix was the fan motor/blade update. Yes, many times that is the fix, but only when all the other variables have been eliminated.
Run that thing until the alarm goes off, shoot a picture of the temperature, take that to the dealer and show them there is still an issue.
Good luck with your machine. I hope you get it resolved to your satisfaction.
So another thing I had found is that I do not have 3/4 couplers. I have stock couplers on the machine. But I’m going to measure today to make sure. If anyone would like to help me brainstorm or just talk me off the ledge my number is 570-956-2081. I’m going to be working all day day, hopefully in the machine
I agree with all of this. If you can give me a buzz I would greatly appreciate it. 570-956-2081.We see many of these machines with this complaint. We have one in the shop now. Overheats when running a cold planer. We fix EVERY one of them successfully. There has to be a thoughtful systematic approach to troubleshooting these units. The obvious is checked like coolant level and condition, radiator cleanliness, baffles in place, fan turning, etc (we have seen many simple causes), but the red flag for me is the OP mentioned in post #18 that the fan stopped turning. The ONLY reason for the fan to stop turning is debris in the system. That fan HAS to be turning, always. The software never commands a fan to stop (except when reversing). So, what debris and where did it come from? That is why return screens and filters have to be inspected. Flow tests performed on the charge pump (have seen these fail) and possibly the main hydraulic pump and the high flow pump (have seen some failures with these causing the debris also). We have also seen our fair share of drive motor failures causing debris. So there are a lot of variables that have to be eliminated to reach a successful conclusion.
After reading the tech's service report, someone just assumed the fix was the fan motor/blade update. Yes, many times that is the fix, but only when all the other variables have been eliminated.
Run that thing until the alarm goes off, shoot a picture of the temperature, take that to the dealer and show them there is still an issue.
Good luck with your machine. I hope you get it resolved to your satisfaction.
Maybe you ask MG2361, if he is willing, speak to your service manager and lay out for them how to get to the bottom of the issue.
I am not inclined to intrude into your dealer's domain. They can be very sensitive to intrusion from another dealer individual. Much of the information they need is already published by Deere in the manuals, in DTAC solutions as well as using some common sense.If you can give me a buzz
Yeah I definitely can make it overheat. I was just looking to talk with you over the phone to run though everything that has gone on. And possible bounce some ideas off of you. With your knowledge I gather that you’re a tech yourself.First thing that needs to be done is make it overheat (pictures, pictures, pictures) so there is evidence the overheat issue is still there, or the dealer will be blowing you off. If you cannot make it hot enough to overheat, you may have to wait until ambient gets high enough to help drive the temp over the top.
I am not inclined to intrude into your dealer's domain. They can be very sensitive to intrusion from another dealer individual. Much of the information they need is already published by Deere in the manuals, in DTAC solutions as well as using some common sense.