2020 Deere 333g hydraulic oil overheating

[Billyg371]

Something is getting overlooked for some reason. Did they pay for this bill you posted?

Yes they covered this bill. The tech actually just called me because I sent him some photos of the temps. Said he’ll be out tomorrow at 9am to jump in it and mulch some to see if he can replicate it.

 

[Vetech63]

Can you post some pics of your mulching set-up? Also, pics of the auxiliary connectors and the hoses.

 

[Vetech63]

Tell that tech to take a pressure relief gauge reading at the auxiliary pressure port and record that pressure. Then reconnect the line to the mulcher and stall it and record that pressure. If the pressure with the mulcher stalled is less than the pressure line deadheaded, then you have leakage in the mulcher drive motor that could be creating your heating problem.

 

[Billyg371]

Can you post some pics of your mulching set-up? Also, pics of the auxiliary connectors and the hoses.

Let me know if you need any more

 

[Vetech63]

I'm wondering if those quick couplers are restricting the flow somewhat. That would cause heating.

 

[Billyg371]

I'm wondering if those quick couplers are restricting the flow somewhat. That would cause heating.

What is the alternative? I also picked up a root rake grapple that has 1/2in flat faced couplers. I need to get 3/4 so it fits mine. Where can I find those?

 

[mg2361]

If the pressure with the mulcher stalled is less than the pressure line deadheaded, then you have leakage in the mulcher drive motor that could be creating your heating problem.

As mentioned in post #17, make sure the tech performs the Quick Coupler case drain leakage test. I did not see that on the invoice. There have been many failures of the O-ring inside the coupler manifold allowing oil to leak to the case drain circuit.

Also, the invoice does not mention a charge pump flow test being performed, cooling package inspections, or return screens being inspected for debris (especially since the original fan speed was so low).

While 2800 rpm should be fast enough, especially at 65* ambient, the Tru-Flo setup is supposed to reach 2900-3200 rpm at a test temperature of 150*F.

 

[Billyg371]

As mentioned in post #17, make sure the tech performs the Quick Coupler case drain leakage test. I did not see that on the invoice. There have been many failures of the O-ring inside the coupler manifold allowing oil to leak to the case drain circuit.

Also, the invoice does not mention a charge pump flow test being performed, cooling package inspections, or return screens being inspected for debris (especially since the original fan speed was so low).

While 2800 rpm should be fast enough, especially at 65* ambient, the Tru-Flo setup is supposed to reach 2900-3200 rpm at a test temperature of 150*F.

Well the tech came out and ran the mulcher for 2 hours and temp never got over 210 for hydraulics. I then got in it and had him watch me. I got it up to 215. I believe I was running it too fast if that’s possible. But I feel like it shouldn’t run that high but maybe with the mulcher on that’s how it is. I’m not sure. Do I get a second opinion even though it will cost me out of pocket?

 

[mg2361]

I got it up to 215

Red Stop Light comes on at 221*.

Did he perform the quick coupler manifold leakage test? Need to eliminate that as a possible cause.

 

[Billyg371]

Red Stop Light comes on at 221*.

Did he perform the quick coupler manifold leakage test? Need to eliminate that as a possible cause.

No he did not. He didn’t do anything else because he said it was working as it should. Said I was going to fast mulching therefore that’s why it was heating up quick

 

[Vetech63]

Question........are you running this until an overheating alarm comes on?

 

[Vetech63]

No he did not. He didn’t do anything else because he said it was working as it should

well, looks like they are being very thorough with their troubleshooting then. Big mistake there...........

 

[Billyg371]

Question........are you running this until an overheating alarm comes on?

More so just watching temp come up and then stopping until it goes down. No overheat alarm since it’s been back from the dealer.

 

[Billyg371]

well, looks like they are being very thorough with their troubleshooting then. Big mistake there...........

I guess I’m not sure what a normal operating temp for the hydraulics is. 200-210 may be normal? I watched the tech run it for an hour an it never hit the alarm. I did think he was going slow. I may have to do this trouble shooting on my own

 

[Vetech63]

Run it like you normally do and see if the alarm goes off. Sometimes attacents like that will run hotter but below the alarm spec.

 

[KSSS]

I don't know Deere, but I can't believe that 210 on the hydraulics should be normal. That allows you an 11 degree increase before the lights come on especially when the ambient temps are that low.

Something clearly isn't right. What about running a different mulcher or high flow mower (or see if they have a different 333 and see where that machine runs) and try to isolate the problem down to one or the other? It appears to me, the hyd fluid is getting hot through a relief problem or flow problem. Getting 215 in an hour, unless your constantly plugging the mulcher and forcing it over relief is not the way it should run. I can run at 90 degrees ambient for half a day in thick material before I start creeping into the 215 to 220 area, mostly due to the intakes start getting plugged with material.

I thought initially that your couplers on the machine were .5 but I see they are .75 which is about as large as you can go. I don't think that is the issue.

You shouldn't have to fix this on your own. I think by doing so your accepting the machine as it is. I think that could be a costly mistake. I would compel them to fix it or give you something else, or give you your money back and pick differently.

 

[Billyg371]

I don't know Deere, but I can't believe that 210 on the hydraulics should be normal. That allows you an 11 degree increase before the lights come on especially when the ambient temps are that low.

Something clearly isn't right. What about running a different mulcher or high flow mower (or see if they have a different 333 and see where that machine runs) and try to isolate the problem down to one or the other? It appears to me, the hyd fluid is getting hot through a relief problem or flow problem. Getting 215 in an hour, unless your constantly plugging the mulcher and forcing it over relief is not the way it should run. I can run at 90 degrees ambient for half a day in thick material before I start creeping into the 215 to 220 area, mostly due to the intakes start getting plugged with material.

I thought initially that your couplers on the machine were .5 but I see they are .75 which is about as large as you can go. I don't think that is the issue.

You shouldn't have to fix this on your own. I think by doing so your accepting the machine as it is. I think that could be a costly mistake. I would compel them to fix it or give you something else, or give you your money back and pick differently.

I’m not really sure how to go about them fixing it when they think it’s operating as it should. I don’t have access to another mulcher or cutter. I may call Fecon to see what they think.

 

[Billyg371]

I’m not really sure how to go about them fixing it when they think it’s operating as it should. I don’t have access to another mulcher or cutter. I may call Fecon to see what they think.

I also need to put tracks on it. They were pretty bad when I purchased it and I knew that but since I got it back they are about to break so I’m putting tracks on it tomorrow and I’m going to run it some. I’m just not sure how to go about talking to them about this.

 

[KSSS]

I would try and find some mulching forums. One I heard of years ago that I think is on FB is called Mulcher Mafia. I would get on these forms and ask other people who run the 333 and see what kind of temps they are seeing. Get some other input and confirm where that machine should be running, if your dealer is right, then you have what you have. If they are not (which I hope is the case), I would park that thing at their door. Before I get too far out on my skis, I would wait to confirm where this thing should be running. However if the machine is running hot, you have a case that they fix it, or replace it or give you, your money back. The case to fix it being that all the work they have done so far, for free, says that they accept that the machine is not running correctly and is their responsibility to fix it. Just throwing up their hands and saying that it works like it should, is not option, at least would not be an option for me. Don't let them roll you over.

 

[Billyg371]

I would try and find some mulching forums. One I heard of years ago that I think is on FB is called Mulcher Mafia. I would get on these forms and ask other people who run the 333 and see what kind of temps they are seeing. Get some other input and confirm where that machine should be running, if your dealer is right, then you have what you have. If they are not (which I hope is the case), I would park that thing at their door. Before I get too far out on my skis, I would wait to confirm where this thing should be running. However if the machine is running hot, you have a case that they fix it, or replace it or give you, your money back. The case to fix it being that all the work they have done so far, for free, says that they accept that the machine is not running correctly and is their responsibility to fix it. Just throwing up their hands and saying that it works like it should, is not option, at least would not be an option for me. Don't let them roll you over.

I appreciate the response. I will keep on them. I actually have a friend at another store (same company) reached out to him and he’s going to do some digging as well. Hopefully I can figure this out!