821 CASE BRAKE QUESTIONS

[Jake Erickson]

SERIAL #JAK0023963

I've been looking for a payloader. Found one nearby very low hours, never worked in heavy construction. Pushed a train for it's entire life. It's going on auction. The people listing it said the brakes are bad. I called the mechanic shop and they said $17,000 in parts or $22,750 parts/labor. Can this be real? Said it needs Disc, Shoes and possibly calipers. The calipers were $3,000/piece. Are there any places a person could buy calipers cheaper? Found other places online for the other components but no calipers. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Any idea what I should offer for the machine?

Thank you all for your help.
I was looking for a 966c but this machine has very few hours on it and is in my back yard....

 

[Coy Lancaster]

The brakes are outer disc brakes and not that hard to change the pads. The brake system is air over hyd. with two master cylinders with pancake actuators, which are same as truck type. You have an air dryer that is the same as what is used on trucks, compressor is the same also just water cooled. Of course the expense is what is wrong with brakes is it an air problem or hyd. problem. I don't think it would cost as much as what they are quoting you, especially if you can do labor yourself.

 

[Jake Erickson]

I think the majority of the price was for the Calipers. But I found a place that has used ones. I also haven't been able to look at it myself, I would be doing all of the labor myself. What do you think it would be worth?

 

[Coy Lancaster]

Can you post a photo of loader? I'm really not sure of price but you can do some checking online at different auction sites.

 

[Jake Erickson]

Hey, I'll try and get some pictures this week and post them. Thanks for helping.

 

[Coy Lancaster]

Hey, I'll try and get some pictures this week and post them. Thanks for helping.

No problem

 

[Vetech63]

I called the mechanic shop and they said $17,000 in parts or $22,750 parts/labor

WTF?! Don't do this!

 

[Jake Erickson]

WTF?! Don't do this!

Hey! You mean don't buy it or don't have the mechanic shop do the work? I wasn't planning on them doing any of the work, and most likely not getting any parts through them after seeing their pricing.

 

[Vetech63]

Hey! You mean don't buy it or don't have the mechanic shop do the work? I wasn't planning on them doing any of the work, and most likely not getting any parts through them after seeing their pricing.

Perfect.

 

[Jake Erickson]

 

[Jake Erickson]

So the front left brake caliper sticks and won't release. The disc's are all worn down quite a bit, pads look like new. Was driving it home but the disc kept getting really hot so parked it at a friends shop and will work on it this upcoming week. So question, wheres the best place to buy the disc's and also a used or good priced new caliber if i can't get it to suck back in. Machine has 4XXX hours on it, was never used in construction, local elevator used it to pull the train around the track. Everything seems almost like new on it minus the brake system. One life cylinder leaks but as of right now that's pretty minor. I do believe the loader has the extended axle so it didn't ride on top of the rail road rail. One more thing where would a guy buy an operators manual for it?

 

[Vetech63]

I would post a pic of your rotors if I were you. It really depends on how bad they are...……..can they be turned down? ….or are they wore THAT bad. You should be able to save your brake caliper also. It sounds like the caliper piston is stuck, maybe due to contaminants………..if its rusted then its junk unless you can have it recoated. If you cant un-lodge the caliper piston from the housing.....drop it in a bucket of diesel fuel for a day or 2.
If your in a farming application with this loader, how much do you really want to spend on brake parts? You very well may be able to get good brakes for your use without a lot of parts expense.

 

[TVA]

I haven’t dealt with calipers in Case/IH payloaders, but I did everything else on those breaks. I think most of your expense will come from labor! You gonna have to become contortionist to work on that system!
Those are kinda stuck on stupid breaks and steering - even relatively newer machines still use air over hydraulic breaks ( I don’t see why it can be air breaks, especially those being articulated machines), and cable or rod/link operated steering ( when about everybody else use orbitrol valves for steering).

Break cluster is about $800 bucks. Most of those is Wagner, but if you not in a hurry you can source individual parts.

Axles are Rockwell, you can go to
axletech website, they have link to aftermarket site where possibly you can find cheaper break parts.
If it is Wabco - you pretty much screwed on price, or it is obsolete.

 

[TVA]

https://www.meritorpartsxpress.com/...meritor-na/home?catalogId=10051&storeId=10154

 

[TVA]

https://www.axletech.com/en/products/brakes

 

[TVA]

I use AVspare to find part numbers, then search for cheaper option. Sometimes going to Original manufacturer is a cheapest option but you would have to find the OEM model/serial first because machine manufacturers replace name plates and re-code numbers.

 

[TVA]

This what was on the IH 503A, the last I worked on:

 

[Jake Erickson]

 

[Jake Erickson]

Thank you all very much for the great advice and information. I was able to get the pay loader home by taking it easy and slow. Moved some snow piles with it and it worked great. Vetech63 you're right I do not want to spend much money, hopefully as little as possible. A couple things that I noticed after running it. When I apply the brakes it has a lot of resistance but it does nothing whatsoever to stop it. Also when shifting I can go from 1-2 and it does nothing 2-3 shifts fine and 3-4 shits fine. 4th gear is very slow but maybe it's not a speed demon anyway. Anything to check?

 

[TVA]

Resistance you feel is in the foot air valve ( probably E6). On the cluster ( that’s where air pusher bolts to master cylinder) there’s usually indicator rod - when air drum pushes the master cylinder you should see thin rod moving in and out. If it doesn’t - your problem is in the air half of the system. Does machine building up the air pressure? Usually gauge would have green field and say “drive”.