BAD miss, may have major trouble! 1967 580ck. Roughest backhoe in captivity.

[dwloop]

If you look at the pics he posted, there does not appear to be one shown that is 1/8" above the block. I think he was confusing the upper ridge with the flange. One of the flanges actually looks low, but again it very hard to see in the pics. The only way to know is to check, even if it is with a dial indicator and base, or even a flat rule and feeler gauge at first. When he drops the new ones in, he will know.

Just my 2c... Advise you get on the web is sometimes worth every penny you paid for it.

Dave

 

[Tinkerer]

If you look at the pics he posted, there does not appear to be one shown that is 1/8" above the block. I think he was confusing the upper ridge with the flange. One of the flanges actually looks low, but again it very hard to see in the pics. The only way to know is to check, even if it is with a dial indicator and base, or even a flat rule and feeler gauge at first. When he drops the new ones in, he will know.

Just my 2c... Advise you get on the web is sometimes worth every penny you paid for it.

Dave

For some strange reason the pictures Packratc has posted were not viewable on my computer until tonight. I could see his posts #69,#70 & #71. But the pictures were not there. Just three big gray areas. Seems real weird. Anyway, disregard what I posted in reply #80. My whole reply was idiotic now that I can see the liners in the photos.

 

[packratc]

OK guys, Between all of you I'm starting to see the picture. Probably what I was looking at was the "fire ring" someone called it. The actual flange of the liners looks to be OK. BUt I'm just judging from the pictures, just like you all are. Thank you all for pointing it all out to me. This is a learning experiance for me and I might have accidentally learned something. Thanks again, Packratc (Now on to pulling the liners)

 

[dwloop]

Tinkerer, I think the term 'idiotic' is being pretty tough on yourself. Just sayin... After all, we are all trying to help.

Dave

 

[packratc]

sleeve removal

 

[packratc]

sleeve pull

 

[packratc]

sleeve pull

 

[packratc]

sleeve pull

 

[willie59]

Enjoying this nice weather are ya Packratc?

 

[packratc]

AHH! willie59, it dont get much better than this. I'm able to work on my hoe between cold, showers, and intermittent sunlight. And then get on the net and show how poorly I'm learning to post pictures. Top pic is supposed to be last and is inverted pic of first sleeve successfully removed. Second pic and 4th pics show sleeve pull in progress. Other pic is obviouysly inverted & I can't fiqure out how to delete it. I had gotten lucky and neighbor/paid helper borrowed a puller from local tractor repair shop. I made screw-on end for the 580ck sleeves. Lots of oil, grease, water, antifreeze, in my face, but they came out. Rods checked standard. Needs rod bearings. Sleeve measured as the larger of the two available for the 188 diesel. Hope to order kit tomorrow. Have pics of puller on the thread I started asking for pictures of pullers. Thanks to you all, Packratc

 

[dwloop]

Looks like progress!! We all like pics, the order is just a minor thing... You'll get that down.

How hard were the liners to pull??

You have more rain coming this weekend it looks like.

Dave

 

[packratc]

Thanks for the encouragement, dwloop. The first liner was pretty tough on Chico, the guy pulling on the crescent wrench. I was under watching to see that the puller was not going to hang up on the block. it was definitly a two person job. When it broke loose, that's when the antifreeze joined me on the old piece of roofing tin I was laying on. (I really want you to enjoy the image as it is/was so much fun for me.) Then, as the others came out they seemed get easier. I attributed to the block actually "relaxing" as the pressed in liners may provide a small amount of rigidity. Incidently, the first one to come out, cylinder #2, fought all the way out. That's why the steel bars are on the top of the block. We had to start over again with the puller as we'd run out of thread length. OfF course, we might have started with it threaded through more than needed. Anyway, the other three just pulled loose and got easier as they came. All in all not a bad deal once you got your stuff in order. I'm thinking about starting a thread listing all the tools a hoe owner should own if he/she is going to do their own work. Packratc

 

[packratc]

OMG! Pushrods (2 needed due to the gentle arc in their shape) are $52 per at the Case Dealer. I got me a flat steel-topped bench and a ball peen, I'm gonna do some reshaping. I'm gonna drill through the push rod about an inch down from the top. Then slide a wire twist from a loaf of bread through that push rod and loop it over the top of the rocker arm. Set that lash a little tight and twist it down. Certainly it can hold on. These things can't turn more than 2200 or 2400 RPM. I'm gonna be a redneck rockstar! Packratc

 

[dwloop]

packratc, if it were me, I would try some of the salvage yards or aftermarket dealers. These diesels have very little valve - piston clearance, and are interference engines. Meaning if the timing gets off or that rod gets out it will kiss the piston. After spending the dime to get and install a new liner kit and the head work, I would not chance ruining that with a couple messed up push rods.

Just my 2c....

Dave

Edit: Here you go....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Case-Tractor-Pushrod-G47079-Fits-188-and-207-Engines-/220503088571

 

[ttazzman]

I am not a case mechanic.....but.....could it be that someone over decked the top of the block or head creating the need for 2 head gaskets and produced a condition where the sleave is protruding to far above the deck??.......surely there is a reason someone in the past chose to use 2 head gaskets .....might be good to know that reason before finishing the inframe

 

[chroniekon]

I wouldn't put at risk all the work and money you've spent on a couple of bread twisties. I purchased a couple of used John Deere push rods from a local bone yard for $10 each a couple of years ago.

 

[packratc]

Like the Gerald Ford quote. There's one tractor junk yard in the county. I'll see if he has any John Deere pushrods. I'd about bet that one could have pushrods made for less than $50 apiece. Thanks for the advise. Packratc

 

[chroniekon]

I don't think I would use Deere push rods (I did because I was working on a Deere) unless for some reason they were exactly like the Case rods you need. I would think any yard that has used equipment parts would have Case parts. There's a large yard near me here in Oregon. I can get you their contact info if you like.

 

[dwloop]

packratc, several guys on ebay have the actual Case CNH rods new for around $12 each.... I listed one above.

 

[packratc]

Chroniekon, I wasn't going to use JD push rods. Just foolin' with you. I completly understood. It was written in such a way as an unsuspecting reader could read it as saying that a JD push rod would do it. But I have a strange or strained sense of humor. Thanks for your comments and help. I talked to two junk yards today. Both within about 30 miles. One of them, a guy I've done business with before, thinks he has some "in the barn". I've been in his barn before. It's a hoot! I was at that time looking for a starter for a 424 International gas burner. I didn't even have a core. He sent me to a corner of this huge old hay barn and there was a pile of starters that was over 4 ft high & must have been 30 ft across. He said he'd been tossing starters in there for over 20 years. I'd have to look and see what I could find. He has over 200 tractors and varied equipment in his yard. It's Story Tractor. Google it and it will come up near Murfreesboro, TN. Dwloop, thanks for the ebay heads up. That may be the way to ge and cheaper than the bone yard. We'll see. I ordered my rebuild kit today through Agkits. Bet I won't get it Monday. packratc