CAT 277B skid steer cranks but won't start

[RangerTXRancher]

I have a 2006 CAT 277B (CAT0277BCMDH04755) with about 2,000 hours on it. It's always cranked right up and run strong. A couple weeks ago I had been using it for about 10 minutes (wasn't cold outside, probably 50) when it started bogging down on throttle (felt like the tracks were stuck in the mud) and then it blew a small amount of white smoke from the exhaust and died. Figured it was a fuel issue. I've tried all kinds of stuff to remedy the issue, but no luck. Sounds normal while it cranks, but won't start.

I just got off the phone with CAT field service and it'll be about $2,000 to setup a commercial account (apparently that's required for field service) including the travel costs to have them come out and look at it. I'll push it into the pond before I pay that, haha.

Any ideas? I've tried...

Clean fuel
Blew fuel lines out to ensure no clogs
Put on a new fuel pump/filter assembly

Other things done in recent months.

New battery
New starter
New alternator
All new fuses
All new filters
Fresh oil change

 

[Nige]

it blew a small amount of white smoke from the exhaust and died.

Is it losing any coolant at all.?
Do you have any way of pressurizing the cooling system to say 15psi.?

Try removing the engine oi lfilter and cut it open to look for particles. See the video below.

 

[RangerTXRancher]

Is it losing any coolant at all.?
Do you have any way of pressurizing the cooling system to say 15psi.?
Try removing the engine oil filter and cut it open to look for particles. See the video below.

What would the cooling system pressure have to do with it starting? (Just curious.) EDIT. Nevermind. I assume you mean pressurize it to see if it spews out anywhere.

I probably ought to check the coolant level either way.

I'll cut the oil filter open and check for metal contaminants, but I'll have to order one of those cutters first.

I think I'll also order a compression test kit as well to check the cylinders. Any chance you know what the proper compression psi should be? (I'm trying to look it up as we speak.)

 

[Nige]

I probably ought to check the coolant level either way.

Yes, you really should if you haven't already.

I'll cut the oil filter open and check for metal contaminants, but I'll have to order one of those cutters first.

You can do it with a hacksaw and a pair of tin snips if you have to. the filter cutter just makes it easier. So long as you remove a section of the filter media from well away from where you cut into the canister it won't affect what you see in the bottom of the pleats.

I think I'll also order a compression test kit as well to check the cylinders. Any chance you know what the proper compression psi should be?

There isn't a spec. Look for significant differences between cylinders.

 

[Nige]

If you are going to do all this yourself a Service Manual would be an important resource to have. Look in the usual places for Cat Publication RENR4880 if you want a used copy. New it sells for $765 in paper form or $540 on a CD so don't expect to get one for $50........

 

[heymccall]

On my 248B, to prime a new filter, the key must be turned to CRANK and left back in RUN, while the seat bar is up.
In other words, simply turning the key to RUN does not engage the priming pump.

Or, simply apply 12v (and ground) to the priming pump for a minimum of ONE minute, to force a prime.

 

[RangerTXRancher]

If you are going to do all this yourself a Service Manual would be an important resource to have. Look in the usual places for Cat Publication RENR4880 if you want a used copy. New it sells for $765 in paper form or $540 on a CD so don't expect to get one for $50........

This one?

 

[RangerTXRancher]

On my 248B, to prime a new filter, the key must be turned to CRANK and left back in RUN, while the seat bar is up.
In other words, simply turning the key to RUN does not engage the priming pump.

Or, simply apply 12v (and ground) to the priming pump for a minimum of ONE minute, to force a prime.

I believe I did that. I tried turing the key to the on position both with the bar up and down and let the fuel pump run for 30 seconds or so before switching then ignition back to off and then cranking.

 

[Nige]

This one?

No. that's the Operation & Maintenance Manual that should be in the pocket behind the seat. Replacements are $50 for a download or $60 in paper format. I'm talking about something like this one (this is not for your machine BTW)..........

 

[RangerTXRancher]

No. that's the Operation & Maintenance Manual that should be in the pocket behind the seat. Replacements are $50 for a download or $60 in paper format. I'm talking about something like this one (this is not for your machine BTW)..........

View attachment 280665

Ah. Okay.

 

[heymccall]

Did the bowl on the filter fill up?
You changed the whole pump/ filter assembly. Could you have transposed the 3 hoses?

 

[RangerTXRancher]

Did the bowl on the filter fill up?
You changed the whole pump/ filter assembly. Could you have transposed the 3 hoses?

No it didn't. I forgot to ask about that. I wasn't sure if the new filter was supposed to show fuel in the bowl after it primed or if the bowl is just for the water that is removed over time.

It's my understanding that the fuel filter also serves as a water separator and that the water collects in the bowl and you empty it on occasion with the little screw on the bottom.

Note: The filter/pump assembly I removed didn't have a clear bowl on the bottom.

Hoses are on right.

 

[RangerTXRancher]

Just wanted to give an update on this...

I got the machine running this weekend. Still seems a bit sluggish, but I only drove it around for about 5 minutes. Plus, it was about 35 degrees out, so I'll chalk it up to the cold for now.

Apparently the new fuel pump isn't strong enough to draw in fuel all the way from the tank. Or I suppose the air in the line prevented it. Because, I let it prime for about 5 minutes, but no fuel ever came from the tank into the filter/bowl.

So, just to make sure I had the lines hooked up correctly, I rigged up a little suction device to the main line from the tank and drew in fuel manually to the pump. Once I did that and fuel was in the line all the way to pump, I started priming it again. At this point the bowl started filling up. After about 2 minutes of priming, the bowl was full.

It cranked right up at that point.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Sounds like the supply pump is on its last leg..
It WILL BE sluggish if the supply pump can’t push fuel.. nothing for the pump to pump..
It leaves it all up to the inj pump to draw the fuel.. unless u replace the supply pump, your in for a hefty bill for an inj pump o/h..

 

[heymccall]

Is the Oring present between the clear bowl and the bottom of the filter?

Is this a whole assembly, or did you just change the pump?