• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

Cat D6H LGP 2 overheating engine (coolant restrictor?)

tctractors

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
2,412
Location
Worc U.K.
the important thing is was the transmission cooler and oil cooler completely stripped down with all the water tubes poked clear, the transmission cooler blocks from the bottom in some order, you can check the regulator for correct function with a heat gun or Flur off your phone, as you will see the temp drop as the reg' opens when targeting the top side of the spin on filter. tctractors
 

JAJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2022
Messages
165
Location
Australia
Occupation
Owner operator of small fleet
the important thing is was the transmission cooler and oil cooler completely stripped down with all the water tubes poked clear, the transmission cooler blocks from the bottom in some order, you can check the regulator for correct function with a heat gun or Flur off your phone, as you will see the temp drop as the reg' opens when targeting the top side of the spin on filter. tctractors

Yes when we did the Radiator they were both pulled off and inspected. The Trans cooler was completely clean in every tube and the engine oil cooler had a few tubes blocked but the majority of the rust was too big to fit down the tubes. It was packed loosely up against the tubes on the in side. I have had the engine oil cooler off again to check last year. There was a couple flakes of rust that must have been still in there somewhere and missed in the clean up but clean otherwise.

I check the temps again today and the regulator looks to be working correctly so I didn't pull it out. I had a regulator but no new gasket so didn't want to chance it if it wasn't needed. I will pull it out if you guys think it needs to come out.

I have pictures and more new info to put up so I'll post it now. If i can work out how to get pics up here off my phone!
 

JAJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2022
Messages
165
Location
Australia
Occupation
Owner operator of small fleet
96A0387F-CD75-4CF9-B1BB-A8DB55E90F71.jpeg 46F27F05-E065-44AA-81E4-02EBC4867992.jpeg The fan
forgot to double check but I am sure it goes anti clockwise looking at it from the engine side so blades rotate down in these pictures
 

JAJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2022
Messages
165
Location
Australia
Occupation
Owner operator of small fleet
7D4524FA-E9A6-486D-86DB-9CEF1D29C75C.jpeg B7D6BAD2-E3F5-4B6B-B3FD-DCA8C55F7FE6.jpeg The restrictor in the thermostat housing pipe9A4D8FDA-6BB1-4A43-99B7-61AA075FE442.jpeg
 

JAJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2022
Messages
165
Location
Australia
Occupation
Owner operator of small fleet
384F09CC-D490-4A18-8A34-E35D8FE9F89C.jpeg D78695F5-7261-4879-957E-AC51FEB02AB4.jpeg The part no and writing on the outlet.
 

JAJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2022
Messages
165
Location
Australia
Occupation
Owner operator of small fleet
Looking through Radiator and pics of the pulleys. One of the pulley pics I didn’t do a good job of rubbing the dirt off for the pic sorry.ECC178EB-5490-4923-AF23-4411CCA7C3DF.jpeg 4327D3B1-79BB-428F-BB39-D4EC07C64516.jpeg 39D4B8F1-3F01-403A-AC02-561FF8BA7005.jpeg
 

JAJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2022
Messages
165
Location
Australia
Occupation
Owner operator of small fleet
859F808A-7C1E-4455-8050-373934696CE8.jpeg 6F77CF83-168A-47D2-9E50-0935DF0A7221.jpeg 4F98FFC2-4D47-48FD-806F-2DC17AE55C33.jpeg 28349203-4A72-474F-BFF5-4A9C7C39BF25.jpeg Top and bottom baffles were missing so I made up some makeshift ones out of plastic sheet and the temps seemed to hold steady around 100-103*C working rather than running away and cooled off a lot quicker when I pulled up at high idle. So it made a big difference! I couldn’t find where the side baffles were supposed to mount but I might be able to poke them in the sides and it might make it better again?
 

JAJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2022
Messages
165
Location
Australia
Occupation
Owner operator of small fleet
69634EDE-40C6-4B3B-AFED-514393B4686F.jpeg 8E08E058-1A39-4E47-9D33-CC22707B8934.jpeg 08497061-15E9-47D1-B036-57B2E828E7DB.jpeg 106CF6D3-1DBD-40AF-B214-CA14BD3C8F17.jpeg Still not a big enough temp drop is it?
Seems to be now about 6.5-7*C
Ambient air temp was a bit cooler today, supposed to be 39*C
 

Nige

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
29,402
Location
G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
According to the Parts Manual for your S/N #4 is a 100-4852 Pipe.
The 8N-0743 Orificed Pipe you have installed right now came off a D7H if it came from a tractor, or a 966D/E/F if it came from a wheel loader as suggested by TCT.
I suggest that you get the correct part installed ASAP and see what that does.

upload_2023-2-23_15-2-42.png
The fan. forgot to double check but I am sure it goes anti clockwise looking at it from the engine side so blades rotate down in these pictures
Then the fan spider is installed in the correct orientation.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: JAJ

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,891
Location
WI
This guy shows how to measure wear in pulleys, you can skip to 2:30, and you don't need a gauge to see the wear. You don't have a rounded bottom like his three groove completely worn out pulley. You're looking for a straight edge of the V on both sides. Those don't look bad, but I'm guessing I can't tell much by the picture.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JAJ

Mobiltech

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2014
Messages
1,697
Location
Sask.
Occupation
Self employed Heavy duty mechanic
Make sure you get that rubber around the fan shroud up tight to the fan or you will lose a lot of fan efficiency.

I see by your core pictures this machine has an oil cooler in place of one of the engine rad cores. I know one guy here has been removing that oil cooler and adding an extra rad core because he was always having problems with high temps on all the D6H tractors. He then added a separate oil cooler core in front of the rad.
It seemed to solve the problem. Just something to think about if you can’t get it solved.
 

JAJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2022
Messages
165
Location
Australia
Occupation
Owner operator of small fleet
Thanks Nige. Just checked availability through Cat. This seems a bit extreme considering what the part is!!! None in Australia either, has to come from USA.
Waiting to here back from a aftermarket/secondhand supplier to see what’s available.C2E4B72B-738E-4F55-BA06-BEE33AF527C8.png
 

JAJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2022
Messages
165
Location
Australia
Occupation
Owner operator of small fleet
Thanks Delmer
Very good video, I’ll check mine again and make sure
 

JAJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2022
Messages
165
Location
Australia
Occupation
Owner operator of small fleet
Thanks Mobiltech
I’ll see if I can get hold of a new rubber piece for the shroud. My gap is a bit over spec I think and a couple holes, I had a really good look at it yesterday… cant be helping. I don’t think they are very expensive either.

That idea for the extra rad core would make a big difference. When I read you post I realised that is the difference between my 966G loader and the dozer. It has an external cooler and seems to work a lot better on the hot days. It is more horse power too but dozer might be a marginal system at best?
It sounds like the D6h’s have a reputation for running too hot do they?
 

JAJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2022
Messages
165
Location
Australia
Occupation
Owner operator of small fleet
Why wouldn't you take a grinder and make the hole bigger in your regulator cover ?
Bad Bob
Yeah we opened it up with oxy set and die grinder on my friends dozer. Oxy and cast iron didn’t mix real well, but it did the job!
I thought it would be a cheap readily available part but apparently not. I might have to just enlarge the one I have…. Can easy block it back up if it makes the problem worse.
 

JAJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2022
Messages
165
Location
Australia
Occupation
Owner operator of small fleet
Update:
Still hadn’t heard anything about parts. So we pulled the regulator housing off and dieground it out to full diameter. From about 30mm to 50mm. Seemed to take longer to heat up and cool off a bit quicker when stopped. Temps still hovering around 100*C or just over. About a 6*C drop from top to bottom hose when reading 100*C on the gauge and 97.5 on the top hose.
Also made some side baffles for the rad because I could still feel hot air around the back of the Rad near the fan, that fixed that. It made a small improvement.
The day was around 40*C or just over and felt a bit humid so I’d say a bit of improvement in performance but still not what I would call ideal.

I need to repair a bit of the rubber on the fan shroud (4in piece missing) but other than that I am scratching my head again. It is loosing some air there I know, but I was hoping we might have got more temp drop over the Rad up till now. Will check the Rad core temps for blockages internally when I get back up there but I am sure I did that the other day.
Any wisdom or ideas very welcome!!!
 

D5Dan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2021
Messages
119
Location
Oxford, Maine
Curious if there is a way to test/verify the cooling system is holding pressure? I’m not familiar with the D6H setup; but I suspect it has to build/create some (probably low like 5-6psi)?? My understanding is with no pressure you are going to get higher temps.

Never mentioned- but no leaks, or required “tops-offs” needed with the antifreeze/water?

I will admit that belt track furthest in on the pulley does look like the V is quite worn, but I don’t think that’s “the” issue (and tough to tell 100% from pic).

When you had radiator out, did you happen to check if there was/is any scale/build up on the lower line/hose going to water pump? Seems highly unlikely, but you’ve checked so much I’m surprised you’re not seeing an improvement.

While your fan appears in correct orientation, does it have all its blades??

Have you tried running the machine with one side panel off to see if more airflow would help? Or on the flip side, are any vents covered over that would restrict airflow??

also post up a pic of the whole machine (please), I’d like to see the rake it’s pushing around!!

Wish I had the silver bullet, but keep after it, you will figure it, or modify it to make it right!! ; )
 

tctractors

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
2,412
Location
Worc U.K.
JAJ, did your regulator look like the 1 in the post No 29 by Nige, or better still put up the part number of the thing you fitted, i notice you love a good amount of pig jollop around a gasket face, you might need to have schooling on it's use, that crap only needs a smear to be used, you seem to have plenty spare, if you look on the top of the old regulator it will state a temp standard. tctractors
 

JAJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2022
Messages
165
Location
Australia
Occupation
Owner operator of small fleet
Curious if there is a way to test/verify the cooling system is holding pressure? I’m not familiar with the D6H setup; but I suspect it has to build/create some (probably low like 5-6psi)?? My understanding is with no pressure you are going to get higher temps.

Never mentioned- but no leaks, or required “tops-offs” needed with the antifreeze/water?

I will admit that belt track furthest in on the pulley does look like the V is quite worn, but I don’t think that’s “the” issue (and tough to tell 100% from pic).

When you had radiator out, did you happen to check if there was/is any scale/build up on the lower line/hose going to water pump? Seems highly unlikely, but you’ve checked so much I’m surprised you’re not seeing an improvement.

While your fan appears in correct orientation, does it have all its blades??

Have you tried running the machine with one side panel off to see if more airflow would help? Or on the flip side, are any vents covered over that would restrict airflow??

also post up a pic of the whole machine (please), I’d like to see the rake it’s pushing around!!

Wish I had the silver bullet, but keep after it, you will figure it, or modify it to make it right!! ; )
Hi D5Dan thanks for the post and thanks very much for the encouragement. :)
Sorry for the slow response, that saying “Burning the candle at both ends” doesn’t really cover it… more like the whole bloody candle is on fire at once here lately! Haha

some good suggestions!!
The radiator cap was one of the first things I changed back when I first got the dozer, but that was a long time ago now and could need doing again! I’ll order one and put it on and see. It seems to hold pressure but I haven’t actually tested with a gauge. We are going back up today so I’ll see where we can connect a gauge.

No leaks and doesn’t need any top offs everyday or anything like that. Occasionally it might be a little down but it doesn’t spew out the overflow when it’s hot. Sometimes when it’s been hot it might sweat at the overflow enough for dust to stick around the overflow. I thought this was pretty normal considering the temps.

The pulleys do have a bit of wear but I don’t that’s the drama either. I have seen a lot worse still doing the job….. but I am happy to be told I am wrong on that too.

No I’m sure I had the bottom hose off the water pump to flush it and it all looked good.

Yep all the fan is there.

I’ll try to remove the sides panels to check for any improvement. I had tried it before when I still had other problems but not this time. I actually found an old thread where “Scrub Puller” had said about having issues with the hot air from the radiator hitting the back of the Stickrakes and recirculating too. They made deflectors to push it upwards. I’ll post a pic of the machine for you and see what you think.
 
Top