D7F injection pump

[Jchuff95]

I have a D7F with believed to be a 3306 in it but I have serial and pump number. But what I’m looking for is any info on getting rusted bushing(internal splined nut) out of the top of pump and any diagrams for gaskets and a damaged thrust bearing plus washers in governor housing… TIA

Cat dealer has been no help in finding ANY information

Serial# 94N1638
Pump housing# 5S7999
Governor housing# 7S8825

 

[Old Magnet]

That's an early s/n unit with D333C engine.The 3306 for the 94N didn't come in until s/n 84N5192. Uses the compact fuel injection (early scroll) injection pump and matching governor. Takes a splinned socket tool to remove the pump retainer nuts. Can be a bugger to remove if the nut/s are corroded/damaged.

 

[Jchuff95]

Thank you for the engine information anything helps. Can you still find the nuts for this pump? I have the tools but they started to strip splines, I tried a little heat and air hammer on the socket just to vibrate it.

The rack got stuck and was forced back and forth with governor weights damaging the bearing. But the pump is now freed up and working. I’ll have to reinstall pump and adjust the idle screws.

 

[Old Magnet]

The nuts are actually referred to as bushings #2M4314 and are readily available.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Take a socket that will rest on the “bonnet” and whack the dog sh!t out of the socket 5-6x..
THEN AND ONLY THEN use an air gun to zip them out..
I’m not kidding..

 

[Nige]

Is the attached any help.?

 

[thepumpguysc]

If u strip the inside of the bonnet, I’ve seen guys”try” to walk it out w a pin punch.. it don’t work..
U end up hitting the housing and that’s not good..
The only way I’ve seen it work is to braze/weld a nut to the bonnet and use an air gun to zip it out..
Good luck.. it ain’t fun..

 

[Jchuff95]

Back again with a question, any of you helpful guys got a better diagram of governor housing, assembly or setting of governor? Found I had 3 stuck pumps but forgot order of small spring in governor and my diagram doesn’t show it well

 

[Joe H]

Nige, I've been wondering for a long time about those Cat pages you post.

Are the pictures in the actual Cat manuals as poor as what shows up here that I see?

Joe H

 

[Old Magnet]

What spring are you referring to....
Diagram is for a D330C but it's the same parts in a D333C

 

[Nige]

Nige, I've been wondering for a long time about those Cat pages you post.

Are the pictures in the actual Cat manuals as poor as what shows up here that I see?

Joe H

In the case of the docs I posted above the last update to them was done in 1971. I think that explains a lot.
If you think Cat manuals are poor you should see the rest.......

 

[Jchuff95]

What spring are you referring to....
Diagram is for a D330C but it's the same parts in a D333C
View attachment 300576

#41 does it go governor housing>spring>collar(looks like 40) then collar (34) or does spring #41 go inside of governor housing(with the weights).

 

[Joe H]

Nige, I was a Jag mechanic for 30 years. Brit manuals, when it says "With a suitable prising bar" you know you're in deep ****.

Step 1 of anything is "Disconnect battery". Checking washer fluid, disconnect battery.

Joe H

 

[heymccall]

I seen this

 

[Jchuff95]

What spring are you referring to....
Diagram is for a D330C but it's the same parts in a D333C
View attachment 300576

And also collar #40 is inside the spring on your diagram and opposite on a D7f manual I seen #36…. Got me worried

 

[Old Magnet]

Here's a clearer picture, actually for the 94N.....Does that answer your question?

 

[Jchuff95]

Well the issue I’m seeing now is does anyone know the direction of collar 36. Shows flat towards spring and shoulder towards back, and some pictures show shoulder inside spring?

 

[Old Magnet]

The collar is the seat for the spring. Goes inside the spring.

 

[Jchuff95]

Follow up and questions

I’m only working on this dozer when I’m free for a neighbor(in remote wooded area 20° slope ,no electricity around) had multiple no call/no shows on repair so I’m stuck doing it.

Original problem was 3 rusted/stuck gears(rod) on injection pumps, replaced those 3 pumps(local cat didn’t even have a part for the number in manual, so I got foreign), new seals and bonnets.

The pump is assembled and passed all the checks described in book(rack travel and injector depth), torqued bonnets with new CAT seals to 150lbs. Didn’t mess with governor other than rpm(have them set about 50% high and low)

He’s the problem now we separated this at pump and transfer flange, just slid oring out. Reinstalled with new oring.

#1) Im getting fuel out of injector lines with fuel “off or on” is this normal?(rack is fully back)

#2) I’m getting steady fuel to bleeder screw on filter housing and injector lines at injectors, BUT only under gravity or hand primer. When you crank it shoots a good stream then foamy fuel, no external leaks seen.

^^^will turn over, sometimes hit on one cylinder but has not ran

#3) an older gentleman told me the rectangular coupler on the pump is fool proof to a point, my question is the motor to pump 1:1 ratio. lined it up with unique wear marking on it but I’m still worried it maybe a 1:3 or something?

Transfer pump and hand primer stayed in place on motor

Sorry it’s lengthy but you guys are my only help

 

[Dave Neubert]

Have you tried cranking wile injector lines are loose they should spray fuel out. It dont matter if pump is off ro on you should get fuel out of the lines have you tried giving it a sniff of starting fluid