D7F injection pump

[couesaddict]

Are you confident that you kept the timing correct when you originally reinstalled the injection pump?

 

[Jchuff95]

Are you confident that you kept the timing correct when you originally reinstalled the injection pump?

I only removed the the pump from accessory housing… couldn’t get much information about if it could possibly be off from that connection.

I never removed cam or gears out of pump only the pumps from the housing and the rack. I seen were the warn area was and assembled based on that(ill include picture) but I didn’t know if it could only be off be 180° at that connection or more.

NOT the best artist but in the picture I tried drawing what the injection pump cam end looked like to show how I figured out wear. But a local older man that used to work on these said that it could only go 2 ways on and should still be in time if I put it back right but I did turn the shaft on pump while installing pumps so I have no idea if this is true or not.

 

[Old Magnet]

With that tang arrangement the pump housing can only be mounted one way so it's not likely a timing issue.

 

[Cliffy]

Have you tried running fuel from a clean container with rubber lines if possible. Even bypassing lift pump with an electric pump just to get it running. This eliminates suction leaks and fuel tank issues.
The issues all started when you pointed machine down hill IIRC.

 

[Jchuff95]

Have you tried running fuel from a clean container with rubber lines if possible. Even bypassing lift pump with an electric pump just to get it running. This eliminates suction leaks and fuel tank issues.
The issues all started when you pointed machine down hill IIRC.

That was gonna be my next try to make a flat block off plate with 3 holes(one for fuel from electric pump and 2 for the bolts) and mount a fuel can with inline filter to side just to move the dang thing lol. I only get Fridays to work on it and it rained today so I couldn’t.

 

[couesaddict]

I think the can/electric pump idea is a good one. I’ve never been into one of those. Handful of 3406’s though and a person could screw the timing up on them if they didn’t know what they were up against first which is why I ask. Looking at that picture I’d say it only goes one way and that’s not the problem. Hoping bypassing the tank and lines nets you something. You’ve got a ton of time, effort and money into it at this point!

 

[Jchuff95]

I think the can/electric pump idea is a good one. I’ve never been into one of those. Handful of 3406’s though and a person could screw the timing up on them if they didn’t know what they were up against first which is why I ask. Looking at that picture I’d say it only goes one way and that’s not the problem. Hoping bypassing the tank and lines nets you something. You’ve got a ton of time, effort and money into it at this point!

I’m just appreciative of everyone’s help, been dealing with it since August on and off, started as a stuck rack then bad injectors to a leaking transfer pump. I’ve learned more about a D7F than I’d like tbh lol. I’ve done a lot of cummins but not cat. She was a great dozer but it’s a farmer’s that uses it about every 3 years so I’ve heard the low sulfur fuel and the tank not being full which maybe caused the moisture from sweat was our biggest problems.

 

[Jchuff95]

Well everyone I got good and bad news…. I put original pump back on I rebuilt and didn’t touch the air bleeder valve today, so far NO leaks from accessory housing but I cranked for an hour with the same amount of air coming out.

I preformed the capsule leak test again and found #1 horrible combustion gas blowing out from top of injector and same but less on #6. I believe #3 is also but not as bad(just slow bubbling not blowing fuel out of hole) So did I possibly just get bad reman injectors? cause instead of bubble test like I did last time in the bucket I took them off at the injectors and this is my finds.

Also I believe my fuel guage is inoperable cause it hasn’t moved even bleeding air at the guage.

 

[Mquinista]

well, that does not sound normal...
usually when u crank the engine with the lines off, (almost every time after installation of a IP) the injectors wich are just valves with an atomizer tip , do not open....

its puzzling me how come that engine did not fired yet.... sure u have the right timming and the lines in the right place? have u tried the injectors out of engine injecting to atmosphere as i sugested some post ago?
Its a DI engine must fire, does it fire with start fluid ? or brake cleaner? with brake cleaner it should fire right away... unless the compression its so f&%$# up it will not move anywhere...

actually with brake cleaner and a skillfull fella u can actually move the thing to a better place...

 

[Old Magnet]

No surprise that the fuel pressure gauge is not working after subjecting it to a transfer pump with no relief valve.
You should be using new injector capsules and they should not leak back. Bleeding is not going to be a success until the capsules hold and do not leak back compression.