Truck Shop
Senior Member
My time is nearing the end-no point in wasting money on those. One question though does Milwaukee
make those with a long anvil?
make those with a long anvil?
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Damn you, Milwaukee
- Thread starter Shimmy1
- Start date
Truck Shop
Senior Member
I will let you guys add it to the cart.
The 1 inch I have I got half price at a pawn shop in billings. Till I do that for one of those I'll just drag the hose
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Cordless is nice but very pricey. Why can't they make standard corded 115V impacts with as much torque as the cordless? The cordless blow away most pneumatic impacts as well unless you get into the bigger 3/4 and up drives.
Tinkerer
Senior Member
I don't have a Milwaukee.
But, I did get a DeWalt 20 volt impact for a Christmas present.
It will take off lug nuts that were torqued to 140 ft lbs. as if they were never tightened.
But, I did get a DeWalt 20 volt impact for a Christmas present.
It will take off lug nuts that were torqued to 140 ft lbs. as if they were never tightened.
Acoals
Senior Member
Electric is nice out in the yard, but if you can get an air hose to it I would take air over electric any day. The electric impacts are monstrosities that weigh 10 pounds, and they don't have the feel of air on the socket. I just don't like them, I can't feel the torque right.
MarshallPowerGen
Senior Member
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2017
- Messages
- 448
- Location
- Northwestern USA
- Occupation
- Generator Technician & Equipment Mechanic
What century was this in?
The full size 1/2" drive Milwaukee Fuel is 6.5lbs and the current Mid-Torque Fuel model is 3.5lbs. The technology has come a hell of a long way.
Birken Vogt
Charter Member
I don't use Milwaukee but I use Makita and I have the biggest 1/2 that they offered at the time and it is pretty heavy. But it is almost too light for the job because when it starts hitting, it hits hard and it kind of hurts. Have not found a nut it can't bust yet and have stepped it up to 3/4 drive for bigger sockets. Had an F550 that neighboring business's similar snap-on would not bust the bolts at all, Makita made it look like it was hand tight.
Nige
Senior Member
I have the same feelings regarding air vs electric starting motors for large engines, especially when you are trying to change them.
The mid torques are very good, the high torques are heavy and not quite as powerful as a good air impact, but are good for working away from air. 3/4 and up is best served by air if possible, the battery units have made HUGE strides in that aspect but aren’t quite there power wise. Also when you are raining dirt all over the tool and hitting a large amount of bolts the air shines for durability and not overheating. Also for the small end of things you still want a compact air gun in your box for tight quarters, nothing else touches the little bitty compact air guns with a ball swivel and a whip.
John C.
Senior Member
I think all of them can provide long time shoulder issues over the course of a career. The harder they hit, the more impact goes into your body. My left shoulder was ruined by an IR 1' double hammer running 150 PSI with a one inch hose.
My old 1/2' Craftsman battery impact is great for sheet metal and things like lug nuts when the ambient temp is above freezing. Anything lower and apparently there is some kind of overload that kicks the thing into I quit mode. Wait a couple of minutes for it to reset and start over with the same result. The other issue is the square holes in my impact sockets are still square. I've seen a couple of sockets where the corners are rounded out by those high torque monster impacts.
My old 1/2' Craftsman battery impact is great for sheet metal and things like lug nuts when the ambient temp is above freezing. Anything lower and apparently there is some kind of overload that kicks the thing into I quit mode. Wait a couple of minutes for it to reset and start over with the same result. The other issue is the square holes in my impact sockets are still square. I've seen a couple of sockets where the corners are rounded out by those high torque monster impacts.
Acoals
Senior Member
Ok, so that was a bit of hyperbole, but the electrics are bigger. I have the latest Milwaukee, as well as Snap on, IR and Aircat air impacts. The Milwaukee is a lot bigger, and heavier as well.
materthegreater
Senior Member
Anyone tried a Milwaukee cordless heat gun? Sounds like they don't put out the same heat as a corded gun. I'm usually just needing it for heat shrink, occasionally thawing a lock or hydraulic fitting.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Specialty-Tools/Heating-Tools/2688-20
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Specialty-Tools/Heating-Tools/2688-20
colson04
Senior Member
I have the DeWalt equivalent. It works, but low heat is about useless on mine though. I've used it for electrical heat shrink, to soften shingles up for a repair job, and recently, to put some heat into the fuel primer bulb on my Bobcat when I ran it out of fuel below zero. The rubber squeeze bulb was hard as a brick. A couple minutes with the portable heat gun had it supple and squeezable again.
I don't think it would work well for stripping paint. Takes too long to get hot, and it puts a heck of a draw on the batteries. I use the 5Ah batteries and a full one doesn't last long on the heat gun.
Snap On air tools are mediocre, Snap On cordless are absolute junk and extremely overpriced.
I have some second hand IR and Craftsman 1/2 impacts they are very handy but for the price i didnt think i would ever own any thing else but thanks to friends and family i now have a collection of Milwaukee stuff witch is great but i am steal going to run more airlines in the shop very soon. If i worked as a mechanic agin i think i would use air stuff because on a tear down every tool gets a good oiling or antifreze bath.
cordless shines for panels and such, once you get down to the point where you are working in the engine bay or the pump compartment I switch to air for the reasons you say plus the air is more compact. My 3/8 air gun is about the size of a fist and has a whip with a ball swivel so if you can get your fist up into the space it can often get on the fastener. Add extensions and swivel sockets and it is a labor saver.
I never had alot of swivel sockets tell the last 10 years or so i didnt realize but they are a real time saver. If i could go back to when i started out and told my self you need some stuff borrow the money or what ever . I bought a 3/8 air ratchet early on but every mechanic needs good air hammer 1/4 , 3/8 and 1/2 swivel sockets a 1/2 air ratchet . I had double ended ratchet wrenches but i only used them as a last resort i dont think the ratchet wrenches like we have now were around back then but they are a must have now.
the 3/8 impact swivels are probably the most important sockets I own