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Galion 150 Refurbish

Boom-up-Bob

New Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2024
Messages
4
Location
Mounds, Oklahoma
Happy 4th of July!

Got a bit done over the past few days, and now, the painting is done (front tires, drive shafts, shift linkage rods). Mounted the rear LED lights along with 4 Whelen LED strobe hazzrd lights (will have 10 on the machine when done). Having fun!

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Looks great, we just purchased a 150FA found an operators guide online, looking for a parts manual I have a leak on the control valve for the second third scope. Seems like it builds a lot of back pressure when i try and come back in. I'm thinking a relief valve? Have you come across the issue?
 

crane operator

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
8,382
Location
sw missouri
Looks great, we just purchased a 150FA found an operators guide online, looking for a parts manual I have a leak on the control valve for the second third scope. Seems like it builds a lot of back pressure when i try and come back in. I'm thinking a relief valve? Have you come across the issue?


Retract and extend are slow on 2-3. Way slower than the big section.

Is the leak on your valve right at the dash lever in the cab? That's where they usually leak. I get my parts from Contractors Crane in Houston. They have all the parts for the old Galions, and know what you will need.

 

Boom-up-Bob

New Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2024
Messages
4
Location
Mounds, Oklahoma
Yep, that where it leaks, drips on the boot and keep the leather water proofed. Still wondering why it builds so much back pressure? I take it they would have a parts manual as well?
 

BobCatBob

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2010
Messages
298
Location
Chicago
I’ve had the same issue since day one. It is slow (and I’ve had both internal boom cylinders rebuilt, new Brass guides, slide bearings). I believe it has something to do with the fluid volume…..just not designed for “quick” movement.

Contractors out of Houston is the way to go….they have everything!

Bob
 

Boom-up-Bob

New Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2024
Messages
4
Location
Mounds, Oklahoma
Yes I serviced the boom, hoist brake as it was slipping at 50% of load. Now it holds 110% with no slip. When i go to retract second second it moves slow and sounds like its building pressure on the line like it was at the end of the piston stroke. I sent a email to the company you suggested for a parts manual. Thanks for the recommendation.
 

Boom-up-Bob

New Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2024
Messages
4
Location
Mounds, Oklahoma
2&3 retract at about 1/4 to1/3 of the speed of the big section.
Fully aware
Retract and extend are slow on 2-3. Way slower than the big section.

Is the leak on your valve right at the dash lever in the cab? That's where they usually leak. I get my parts from Contractors Crane in Houston. They have all the parts for the old Galions, and know what you will need.

appreciated the referral. yep the third valve in Rear left stabilizer, blows oil out through rubber boot, when I activate the swing in any direction.
 

Watsy2020

Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2023
Messages
6
Location
wyoming
Kudos for fixing up an old 150A. Odd machine, built well, but some parts are a PITA to work on, and one needs to be an octopus to work all the levers. Back in the day a favorite rig for millwrights and plant workers because they have a small boom tip head compared to other hydrocranes.

Does it have a Detroit or an International gasser?
Anyone have any info on the swing? I have a 150A and everything works but swing. Swing brake seems to release but no swingy. ‍♂️
 

crane operator

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
8,382
Location
sw missouri
The swing brake is just a drum similar to the winch brake. The release arm can be moving but the drum can have the shoes stuck to it.

I would pull the drum, because then you can also see if it’s trying to turn the gear for swing. It could have something broken in the swing drive.



If it’s freezing, you can also have moisture get into the cable control lever, and the lever will move a little bit, but not enough to make the function work. Mine likes to freeze one winch lever.
 

BobCatBob

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2010
Messages
298
Location
Chicago
I’d check the drive housing for oil. To Crane Operators point…..if it’s cold, any water will lock her up. I pulled the drain plug on the drive housing (just behind the Cab, on the bottom of housing)…..and at least 2 quarts of water came out! Fill it back up to the fill plug (on side of housing)…this might be the issue.

Bob
 
Joined
May 24, 2023
Messages
6
Location
Mercer, ME
Occupation
Woodworker
Does anyone have a part number and ideally a source for 5 and six below. This strainer is nowhere to be found on my 80s 150A

Still searching for the serial number...

hydraulic-suction-parts.png
 

BobCatBob

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2010
Messages
298
Location
Chicago
Serial # should be on an aluminum tag on floor in cab, behind seat, left side.

Call Contractors out of Houston…..they’ll have the filter and O ring (5&6).

Picture of your crane? Is it an A model or FA? Detroit diesel?
 

davo727

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2013
Messages
172
Location
N of Houston Texas
Occupation
Aircraft mechanic
Bob told me about them previously, they are basically the official Galion source at this point.



Contractors Crane

5606 Jensen Dr., Houston, Texas 77026
(713) 695-7162
 
Joined
May 24, 2023
Messages
6
Location
Mercer, ME
Occupation
Woodworker
Serial # should be on an aluminum tag on floor in cab, behind seat, left side.

Call Contractors out of Houston…..they’ll have the filter and O ring (5&6).

Picture of your crane? Is it an A model or FA? Detroit diesel?
Yep Found it!

C-150A-DGA
S/N 6486

Spoke with Jake at Contractors - Jeeeeeez that screen / strainer part is like 360 bucks and another 30 for the o-ring. I can't believe the guys I got it from lost it or something. Here she is on the way home:

IMG_2932.JPG
 

crane operator

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
8,382
Location
sw missouri
Doesn't this strainer just keep you from pouring trash into the tank, when filling with oil? If so, if you can manage to fill it with clean oil, I don't know that I would lose sleep over the strainer being gone.

Look how long its held together without it.

On the other hand, looking at the picture, I'm guessing this would be a cheaper one of your future repairs.

Wait until you need the tele hoses, and the spring reel that tensions those hoses. Judging from all the straps holding up the outriggers, you're going to need some cylinders resealed also.

You want to play with iron, better bring your wallet.
 

BobCatBob

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2010
Messages
298
Location
Chicago
“You want to play with iron, better bring your wallet.”……yep.

Jake is fantastic to work with. He pretty much supplied me with everything needed for a full rebuild (short of resealing the internal boom cylinders and what I needed to rebuild the Detroit). It was a fun project!
 
Joined
May 24, 2023
Messages
6
Location
Mercer, ME
Occupation
Woodworker
Yeah Bob, your machine looks awesome. I got it for putting up timber frame buildings on my property, I can certainly tolerate it being a little rough for a while. What I hear is the thing sat for about 15 years-ish prior to my acquiring it. It must have had a mostly full hydraulic tank, cause the inside is shiny metal below a certain point.

Doesn't this strainer just keep you from pouring trash into the tank, when filling with oil? If so, if you can manage to fill it with clean oil, I don't know that I would lose sleep over the strainer being gone.

My understanding is that this separates the suction side of the tank from the fill/return side? The manual says:
A double element filter is provided in the bottom of the hydraulic tank to filter all oil as it returns to the tank.

From the parts diagram and picture below (correct me if I'm wrong) but it looks like the oil is returned to the top of the tank, where it is sucked down through that screen which, I'm guessing, slows the flow around the magnets and provides an additional layer of filtering?
tank-layout.png

I can't tell if it was lost recently or ran for a while without it, the spider is there. Given some of the rust flakes and dirt I found in the top of the tank, I'm thinking I better be more cautious, as I don't want to have to rebuild the pump if I can avoid it for a while.

Here's my short list:

- DONE - Remount/Inner Tube right rear tire.
- DONE - Clean out all the crud and power wash the slime
- Repair broken cover stud on hydraulic tank
- Clean hydraulic tank and install new filters/screen
- Replace broken shift cable
- Unstick/Swap fast lift cable for testing
- Reattach hydraulic pump drive shaft (we detached it so the pump wouldn't run dry)
- Reattach lower boom cylinder end to boom (I think one of the owners was about to reseal it then stopped or injured himself or something)

Thanks for your help / advice guys. It's nice to know there are others out there with these things.
 
Joined
May 24, 2023
Messages
6
Location
Mercer, ME
Occupation
Woodworker
Another question, I was under there this morning, there is this threaded hole and I can see the flywheel, is this just a drain plug? I'm looking at this right, this is the flywheel and the torque converter is inside this housing?

plug-missing-maybe.JPG
 
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