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hitachi exe200 lc-s hydraulic problem stallin out engine

naheed

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
133
Location
kenya
didnt know how to adjust angle sensor but i realised the punch mark has to be 180 to the harness! have played around with it quite alot trying it at all positions but not solving the problem but now will do it as youve told me at 4.4 volts with plate in normal position plus will also check the feedback link and get back on that!
the pvc is 1 second off than 1 second on so meaning no fault codes. unfortunately no professionals in kenya so seems im stuck with it and will have to figure it out with help from you guys which is much appreciated. i see there are adjustments on the dp sensor could that be an issue aswell? what do you think is the problem with the boom up it stalls when your using it same time with any other function? thanks
 

naheed

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Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
133
Location
kenya
ok got angle sensor out to check the link its was fine no movement with the screw driver than adjusted the sensor to 4.4 volts but still not solved stalling problem! could the stalling be caused by the problem of boom up stopping when doing same time with any other function?
 

KenAl

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Joined
Mar 30, 2007
Messages
194
Location
north
Lets go back a few steps. Is the engine dying with no black smoke? Therefore you may have a fuel problem. Check to make sure the stop motor cable is not partially pulling the fuel stop lever on the fuel pump. Or the banjo fitting going into the fuel pump that has a screen in it is clean. Sometimes on smaller machines they are on the inlet to the water separator.
Check that all fuses are ok also. When you looked at the LED flashing it was the lower of the 2 computers right? Pumps at full stroke and no fault code does not make sense. (i'm assuming that). If you can have your volt meter on the angle sensor while someone runs the machine without stalling it and see if the voltage changes. This will confirm that the pump is not coming off full stroke if no voltage change.
As far as your boom up stopping when another function is activated. Try something for me, if your auto idle works, temporarily activate each function after the engine idles down and see if the engine revs up. This is just checking your individual pressure sensors to see if they work. You could have a combination of problems.
 

naheed

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Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
133
Location
kenya
when engine dies its lots of black smoke and plus when i got the machine i thought its was engine problem so did a complete overhaul also new injector tips and pump calibration which was done twice! could calibration be wrong but im doubtful on that?
yes led flashes on lower comp(pvc) but i checked with machine at idle and rest? is that ok?
yes auto idle working will check it with each function tomorrow and volt meter reading of angle sensor!
thanks for your help its really getting me closer to solving this problem. cheers
 

KenAl

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Joined
Mar 30, 2007
Messages
194
Location
north
Ok the black smoke should be an indication of a hydraulic pull down. keeping an open mind, turbo (air intake) problems or a partially plugged muffler can also be a problem. Seen both of those. You are right about the idle and at rest as the only code you will find off the blinking LED is an active code. Now I wish you had a DREX. But we can work around it. The voltage check while someone is operating it will tell us if the pump stroke is moving. If you can feather the boom up without it killing the engine and somehow be looking at the LED to see if there is a code coming up. I'm still thinking code # 22. Abnormal pump control. i have only seen problems like this being A-sensor or High Speed Solenoids. You say you have new solenoids on. Could they be crossed up electrically? I have also seen them seize hydraulically. What happens when you unplug the DP sensor and try the machine?
 

KenAl

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Joined
Mar 30, 2007
Messages
194
Location
north
I agree with the DP sensor circuit. But want to confirm the signals to the pump are OK. Went back and re-read the problems. If you say that swing and travel are OK then I would be looking into the load sensing shuttle valves on the cylinder portion of the valve bank to the DP sensor. Also on the forward facing of the control valve between each hose for boom arm and bucket there is a plate with small steel lines going to it. Check to see if the allen bolts holding the plate on are tight and none are broken off.
 

naheed

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Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
133
Location
kenya
hi kenal put volt meter to the angle sensor today while machine running and with someone operating the machine the voltage changes and rises till about 4.4 when its stalling! checked fuses they all ok but dont know amperage each is required to be?
will feather boom up tomorrow and check if any fault codes appearing and get back on that.
yes one of the high speed solenoids is new(china) but he old one wasnt gone its still working.if i change the wires cross, the pump goes into full stroke few seconds after start and stalls engine even with no controls being done same happens if i remove dp sensor wire! all my parts(pvc,throttle,angle,dp,pressure sensor and high speed solenoid) are china could that be any issue?
 

naheed

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Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
133
Location
kenya
@ cutting edge yup thats what i thought put in a new one adjusted it to 0.4 volts but still same problem!
 
Last edited:

Andre-1

Active Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2011
Messages
38
Location
Jamaica
ensure you get the 4.4 volts on the black and the white wire not the white and the red. The dot on the angle sensor shaft must be facing away from the angle sensor harness side.
 
Last edited:

naheed

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
133
Location
kenya
yes i got 4.4 volts on the angle sensor(with dot facing away from harness) and 0.4 volts on the dp sensor with the black and white wires!
 

KenAl

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Joined
Mar 30, 2007
Messages
194
Location
north
Does the voltage steadily climb to 4.4 even when letting go of the functions or does it go up and down?. 4.4 will be max displacement. I have not used any Chinese parts before. Any of the 1 amp fuses should not be changed up to a higher voltage. Especially the 1 amp PVC or you will burn a resister in it if you have any sensor shorts.
 

naheed

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Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
133
Location
kenya
@ kenal yes signals to the pump are ok the angle sensor voltage steadily changed up and goes down when letting go of function. top high speed solenoid gets about 24 volts when start and bottom gets similar as well but only when in operation.
realised after setting the angle sensor the tracks and swing stalling engine now!
will check the load sensing valves tomorrow.
i have already checked the compensation spools on the front and all steel pipes are ok.
 

KenAl

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Mar 30, 2007
Messages
194
Location
north
DP sensors came out years ago non adjustable and with a smaller top on them. Sounds like you are getting DP sensed pressure. There are 2 small plugs on the top of the other half of the valve bank that the DP sensor is on. Inside are 2 screens (going from memory a long time ago) that oil passes through to the DP sensor. Check to see if they are partially plugged. Hopefully you are not running any vegetable oil. The high speed solenoids can activate many times per second for a fraction of a second to maintain or change the pump angle especially when hot and with the High Speed Solenoids leaking internally . A steady 24v would indicate a a desire from the PVC to stroke the pump. A steady 24 V would also send fault code 22.
 

naheed

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Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
133
Location
kenya
ok coz i have a workshop manaul and it shows to adjust the dp sensor to 0.4 volts.
feathered up boom function today and still not showing any codes on led.dont know why but no codes showing on pvc led. will check the screens and get back on that.
about the oil im using valvoline hydraulic no#46!
 

shopguy

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2011
Messages
509
Location
Alabama
Mine does similar but it only pulls engine down some when you pull lever just a bit then frees up when you pull more ,just in that spot close to neutral that loads it up, like you said only on Bucket ,Boom, Arm .Hope somone will come to our rescue.

Hey Guys I need to bring this one back to the top because i still dont have this 220-3 fixed it is useable but it just aint right or i dont think so heck at this point i just dont know.Like i said before when you pull any cylinder lever (the arm is worst) just a bit (before cylinder moves with pilot pressure about 100psi) it loads up and main pressure jumps to 5000 psi. but when you pull a bit more (pilot pressure to about 200psi) main pressure drops down to hands off pressure of 850psi and the cylinder starts to move, rest of the lever stroke works normal. it is not setting any codes, A/S is at 4.40 at max stroke,D/P is .40 engine off and 4.96 or .26 mgp. on drex running {hands off** I Locked the pump at min. stroke with shims and it did the same thing so i dont think it is pump control trouble but like i said i just dont know.

Thanks
Thanks For Any Help
 

wsw

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Joined
Jan 27, 2011
Messages
122
Location
ontario Canada
Main pressure is going down because your pilot pressure is now sufficient to open valve spools. It sounds like it is spooling up the pumps before it moves the valve spools, are you sure the pumps are not spooling up?
 

shopguy

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2011
Messages
509
Location
Alabama
That is exactly what it sounds like to me too but pumps constant at 4.1 degrees when pvc controls it, 2.1degrees .71 voltes locked all way up i will lock it again and see what it does. Could or does pilot oil close unloader valve?
 
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