John Deere 230 LC Starter Problems

[Shimmy1]

1.** amps at the time when I checked with a meter. Was enough to light the test light though. When you check, double check and triple check things sometimes you tend to confuse yourself. I troubleshot 2 days without a meter, just a test light.

Wouldn't some type of safety shut down prevent power from traveling to the relay as well?

Well, that's what we are trying to figure out, with none of us having a schematic in front if us!! That's why I have been asking if you can determine if the small power terminal (not battery!!) wire on Relay #8 is a direct link to one of the wires under the keyswitch.

 

[jlittle2212]

If you turn to run and you do not have power on another wire then you need a new switch.

So in the run position, I should have power on 2 wires?

So is there a direct connection from the key switch to the battery relay?

 

[Shimmy1]

1 wire. That is the red wire.

Pretty sure this will be third time I'm saying it, I think the keyswitch is the culprit.

 

[jlittle2212]

Well, that's what we are trying to figure out, with none of us having a schematic in front if us!! That's why I have been asking if you can determine if the small power terminal (not battery!!) wire on Relay #8 is a direct link to one of the wires under the keyswitch.

I will back feed the wires tomorrow and see if it changes anything in the key switch.

 

[overworked]

On this style of battery disconnect, the hot wire you have at the key only feeds the battery disconnect, once battery disconnect closes you will have another hot wire at the key to feed the start circuit and so on.

 

[Shimmy1]

So in the run position, I should have power on 2 wires?

So is there a direct connection from the key switch to the battery relay?

Once again, no schematic; maybe, maybe not. That's why you need to ohm all keyswitch wires, except that red one, both ways down to battery relay. Remember to have batteries unhooked when checking resistance with ohmmeter.

 

[jlittle2212]

Pretty sure this will be third time I'm saying it, I think the keyswitch is the culprit.

Yep. I have confidence that you are correct! In the morning I will back feed those wires and jump the key switch and hopefully get fire in the hole!

 

[jlittle2212]

On this style of battery disconnect, the hot wire you have at the key only feeds the battery disconnect, once battery disconnect closes you will have another hot wire at the key to feed the start circuit and so on.

Great piece of info! As you can see, I am not familiar with this setup until now!

 

[Shimmy1]

I will back feed the wires tomorrow and see if it changes anything in the key switch.

I would not back feed anything. Unless you are certain of a wire going directly from keyswitch to the relay. Use your ohmmeter, have it set on X 200, one lead on wire down at relay, other lead on each wire under keyswitch (Not the red wire!!). If none of these read "0", reverse leads and recheck. If still none of them read " 0", I believe we have done all we can without a schematic.

 

[rmllarue91]

Also can check if there are corresponding numbers or colors between key switch and disconnect relay.
There is tons of good info in this tread shimmy has been all over this and we've been trying to read word the same info.

 

[overworked]

The more you jump and back feed , the sooner your gonna have fire in the hole, in the cab, in the battery box. Shimmy is correct, rml also, you need to use ohms meter and check your circuits, the power feeds to the key switch should be fused through the fuse panel in the cab, I feel you have a bad key switch or connection at key switch as stated already. Without a schematic any type of diagnosis is very hard, My head hurts just from this thread. I wish I was at machine to help you.

 

[jlittle2212]

I would not back feed anything. Unless you are certain of a wire going directly from keyswitch to the relay. Use your ohmmeter, have it set on X 200, one lead on wire down at relay, other lead on each wire under keyswitch (Not the red wire!!). If none of these read "0", reverse leads and recheck. If still none of them read " 0", I believe we have done all we can without a schematic.

Would it be efficient to run a wire from relay to check with? My leads aren't very long.

 

[jlittle2212]

Also can check if there are corresponding numbers or colors between key switch and disconnect relay.
There is tons of good info in this tread shimmy has been all over this and we've been trying to read word the same info.

Only problem, machine has been repainted and all wires are JD YELLOW!!! :beatsme

Great info in this thread!!! Thanks again guys!!

 

[overworked]

Yes, it might ad a few ohms but your looking for continuity's

 

[overworked]

Sometimes you have to open up harness a few inches to get past paint, be careful with knife or you will have more problems down the road with the GREEN ones.

 

[Shimmy1]

Would it be efficient to run a wire from relay to check with? My leads aren't very long.

Absolutely. Just make sure your connection doesn't touch anything metal. Also, don't get discouraged if you can't determine if one of the keyswitch wires is the same as the wire down at relay. If you can't, there still may be other possibilities such as some sort of circuit protection that has failed. Keep the faith. You will get it figured out.

 

[jlittle2212]

Sometimes you have to open up harness a few inches to get past paint, be careful with knife or you will have more problems down the road with the GREEN ones.

Yeah the GREEN ones will get ya!

 

[jlittle2212]

Absolutely. Just make sure your connection doesn't touch anything metal. Also, don't get discouraged if you can't determine if one of the keyswitch wires is the same as the wire down at relay. If you can't, there still may be other possibilities such as some sort of circuit protection that has failed. Keep the faith. You will get it figured out.

Thanks so much for all the help! I will post an update tomorrow...

 

[Shimmy1]

Sometimes you have to open up harness a few inches to get past paint, be careful with knife or you will have more problems down the road with the GREEN ones.

I wonder if any of those idiots that like to poke holes in wires ever have to fix their own problems??

 

[overworked]

I had a harness 20 years ago that looked like it was hit with bird shot, gave it a pull and the hole thing stretched like gumbie's arm, had to replace hole harness.