Junkyard's work thread.....maybe haha

[Truck Shop]

In 2013 I had the complete septic system replaced with plastic 1200 gal tank and two 75' runs.
The guy who did it took over the business from his dad. All he installs is plastic anymore, inspected
and meets code. $6,900 was the total cost with clean outs and drain rock. Took two days.

 

[CM1995]

Who buys concrete tanks for that price when plastic is so much cheaper? Or is there something I'm missing?

Joe H

People who want their new septic system approved by their local county health department?

Concrete only here AFIK, never seen a plastic tank installed in a septic system.

 

[crane operator]

Everything here is concrete also. We set quite a few if they can't get the delivery trucks close enough.

 

[Truck Shop]

Every septic system here in the county has to be approved for location {has to be no less than
a hundred feet from a well} and approved for size {amount of bedrooms per dwelling}. Plastic
is ok depending on tank design and who manufactured it. Not all are acceptable. If there is a
old well near by {dry or wet} it will have to be decommissioned by a well driller and a log filled
out sent to federal before a septic revamp or complete new system installed.

 

[joe--h]

google says plastic is legal in Alabama & Missouri. Maybe not every county, although here it's the state that regulates it.

Joe H

 

[Birken Vogt]

We see plastic here, works for bootleggers because it's lighter. I have seen a few slowly get crushed over years by the soil. I think concrete is a better idea.

 

[CM1995]

google says plastic is legal in Alabama & Missouri. Maybe not every county, although here it's the state that regulates it.

Joe H

Maybe those folks can get google to approve their system?

 

[JaredV]

High water table= concrete.

Put in two or three hundred and only one was plastic because there was no way the tank truck was going to get into the back yard. The excavator carried it back.

 

[DMiller]

Or high level of solids in the fill(Rock) concrete.
First Septic Tank I saw was as a kid, steel, knew when it failed as ground caved in and brown water came up. Those had no cleanouts.

 

[Junkyard]

Not much to report today. Met a guy at the shop dropping an 01 Dodge Cummins off for lift and injection pump swap. Got the next service truck in the shop to be setup. Drained the fuel, put fresh in. Fired the old girl up. Ran about 5 min then plugged the fuel water sep. None on hand. None in town. None in tulsa. Wtf. Had DMiller grab the three he could get since he’s coming down later next week. Ordered 3 off Amazon be here Monday. Then I went down the wormhole…..

That little 6BT runs one filter, 33472. So I says to myself, self, we need a water separator primary then a good secondary. I know from past experience a 33358 will spin right on where the 33472 was. So I search filter bases, find what I want, order it and a couple BF1212’s.

But wait, there’s more…..

I want better than that little 10 micron 358. Same filter base I got will run a Cat 1R-0749 or 0750. So I put a second one in the cart. Why, you ask? Why not says I.

So a few new hoses and I’ll ditch the factory filter head which on this ford is kinda wonky anyway. I’ll run a BF1212 or Cat 175-2949 primary and the 749 or 750 secondary. I have to plumb in a fuel tank anyway. Under cab step tank is rusty, on the passenger side and only 35 gal. I took an 85 gallon off a truck in my private boneyard and it’ll go drivers side.

Truck is a 94 Ford F-600 or 650 I don’t recall. 6BT, Allison auto. Only drag is the Lucas Girling brakes. The little 5.9 still has the tamper screw on the pump….but not for long. It’ll get a fuel plate, governor spring kit, AFC kit and a little bump in timing. I love those motors!

 

[Truck Shop]

It’ll get a fuel plate, governor spring kit, AFC kit and a little bump in timing. I love those motors!

It don't go fast enough? Or did Millers vid of the tatra cause you to need a service truck like that?

 

[Junkyard]

There’s not a thing wrong with it like it sits. I just enjoy tinkering with them. It won’t roll coal or anything like that. Maybe just a bit of a haze when you really lay into it.

 

[Truck Shop]

Just pulling your chain.

 

[Junkyard]

Got the Sky Trak done yesterday. It leaves this morning and a Takeuchi TL150 comes in for a hub repair. Hoping to scrounge parts and not buy a complete hub as it’s a yard machine these days and doesn’t see a lot of hours. At some point I need to go order Kubota parts and drag that Dodge in here. Before all that though I need to run to the steel plant and pull the intake off the 6BT and see how plugged up it is.

I haven’t gotten a call from Vetech yet lol. He must be waiting for that $2,000,000 wire transfer before he recruits me!

 

[bindian]

Junkyard,
I hope you don't mind me posting this here. I made a pin puller like your kingpin bearing cap puller.

I am batting .750, as I was able to pull 3 out of 4 pins with it. The Lull's left forward (lower) pin moves about 3/16 or 1/4 inch then seizes. I put so much tension on the bolts, they were indenting the cylinder ear. I got two "pops" while turning the bolts and stopped. I can tap the pin back in and it stops hard with that "metal bottoming out" sound, right where it is when installed.
Is there a trick I am missing to get that pin lined up right with the swivel bearing? Or should I get a pro to come out with the right pin puller?
hugs, Brandi

 

[DMiller]

Sound as has a Step wear spot, get pin just moving but not to that stop point, if cylinder is sitting hard back pull forward on it, lightly then retry the pin pull. Stops again back off slightly, use a jack ot a jack bolt to reposition eye for negligible contact to pin and try again.

 

[hosspuller]

To build on DMiller's post, pull pin a bit then turn it. 90 to 180 degres. It might move the step beyond the ridge.

 

[Junkyard]

I agree with the above. Probably has a step worn in it. Get it part way out, almost to where it stops, give it a turn and then smack it from the other side if possible. Also, I assume the boom is supported? My main thought is your safety but also that the pin could still be in a bit of a bind from supporting a load.

 

[bindian]

I didn't think the boom had tension on the slaves. I saw for and aft movement in the pin to the frame, when I was prying it around with a pry bar.

The right side came out without a whimper. All 4 pins spun when I ran a bolt into them.
Tomorrow, I will try a little tension then spin the pin. Thanks.
hugs, Brandi

 

[Acoals]

In addition to what was said about, when you have tension on it, give a couple good hits with a hammer. Even if you can't hit the back of the pin, a good shock to the frame or pin boss can be helpful.