Rebuilding Deere 1810E scraper

[Shimmy1]

No bushings. Solid pin boss. Pin has never turned in the boss. No chance of it turning now. Never have been able to pound it back at all. This is a 20 ton ram.
It's not moving still. Going to put some heat to it again.

 

[grandpa]

While heating cuss a little bit more..... it may not help but sure makes for stress relief on you. I feel for you. A lancing tool should be on your christmas list for next year.

 

[Shimmy1]

While heating cuss a little bit more..... it may not help but sure makes for stress relief on you. I feel for you. A lancing tool should be on your christmas list for next year.

I just cannot believe that it won't move after we've moved it 4 inches. Those pins are installed in that solid boss, it doesn't turn due to a lock bolt that holds it in. There cannot be any ridges or grooves holding it up. The pounding we did was minimal, and we used a short piece of shaft the same size as the pin, so it shouldn't be mushroomed.

 

[Welder Dave]

If it isn't mushroomed maybe the pin has a slight bend in it and all the pulling has jammed it in the tightest possible way. That seems the most logical explanation to me. Cutting it may be the best option. With the pin shorter it's easier to drill and heat it to get it out. Cutting with a torch might be possible with it shorter too.

 

[materthegreater]

I would think you'd want to heat the pin as hot as you can get it and then let it cool completely. This should shrink the pin slightly.

If you heat the boss, you'll want to keep the pin as cool as possible and push on it while the boss is hot. If you let the boss cool it'll just shrink back down tight on the pin. You either have to try moving the pin while the boss is hot, or heat cycle the pin so that it shrinks and then try moving it.

 

[Truck Shop]

Same thing can happen on King-Pins, all it takes is a small amount of scale to wedge.
Lance it or drill it as Delmer suggested.

 

[Georgia Iron]

I don't heat the pin only the boss

 

[terex herder]

You said thats a 4" pin? Books say 10 ton per inch of diameter for standard fits, double or more for heavy fits.

If it was mine, I'd burn the pin off next to the cylinder and then pull the cylinder off the stub pin. Then burn the rest of the protruding pin. Now burn a hole thru the remaining stump, or as deep as you can go and 2" in diameter. Once everything cools it should come out with your little jack.

I'll bet you will find the pin has pushed a big booger and is cold welded to the bore.

 

[Shimmy1]

You said thats a 4" pin? Books say 10 ton per inch of diameter for standard fits, double or more for heavy fits.

If it was mine, I'd burn the pin off next to the cylinder and then pull the cylinder off the stub pin. Then burn the rest of the protruding pin. Now burn a hole thru the remaining stump, or as deep as you can go and 2" in diameter. Once everything cools it should come out with your little jack.

I'll bet you will find the pin has pushed a big booger and is cold welded to the bore.

4" is stuck in the boss. Pin diameter is 3", so still might take 30-50 ton theoretically. We moved it 4" with three 1" bolts, but the b@stard stalled.

 

[terex herder]

If you don't want to burn the pin off, try this. Take your hydraulic cylinder out, and replace it with a solid steel pin. Use anti-seize on your studs, and hammer the nuts down tight. Now hit the plate with a 20# sledge. Keep chasing the nuts tight. Heavy construction nuts (A563) are better than SAE.

If you have room, you could hang a heavy bar with 2 parallel slings choked on the bar. Now maneuver the bar so you can use it as a battering ram. In this manner you can easily use a nearly unlimited weight hammer.

One of the advantages of burning stubborn pins out for starters is you don't screw up the parent bore when the pin galls.

 

[Shimmy1]

If you don't want to burn the pin off, try this. Take your hydraulic cylinder out, and replace it with a solid steel pin. Use anti-seize on your studs, and hammer the nuts down tight. Now hit the plate with a 20# sledge. Keep chasing the nuts tight. Heavy construction nuts (A563) are better than SAE.

This is exactly what we did, before we tried the cylinder. Until we wore the bolts out. Pounded on the plate, and beat on the flange all around as we were pushing. I'm not opposed to cutting the pin off, probably will do that in the morning.

 

[OzDozer]

I think terexherder has nailed it, it's cold-welded/galled in the bore, and you're going to need 100 tons to move it.
20 tons is good for nothing, I couldn't move Cat D4 1-1/4" track pins with a 20 ton cylinder, it took 50 tons to make them move, and they weren't galled.
Cutting it out looks like the only choice to me. The advice from Delmer about drilling a small hole through it, then gas-axe through the hole (using a big tip) sounds good to me.

 

[1693TA]

A burning bar, or lance would go right through it.

 

[Shimmy1]

FFS, it's just ridiculous to me that a pin that has been just happy and cozy in a 1.5" thick pin boss for 15 years won't just slide it's ass out after the rust is broken.

What size pipe will work the best to lance it? Is 3/8 too big?

 

[Shimmy1]

Oxylance Sure Cut Tool Box Kit w/ Sure Cut Holder, Oxygen Hose, Welding Leads, 24 Rods and High Flow Oxygen Regulator (JRSC2024S-REG)

Oxylance Sure Cut Tool Box Kit w/ Sure Cut Holder, Oxygen Hose, Welding Leads, 24 Rods and High Flow Oxygen Regulator (JRSC2024S-REG)

allweldproducts.com

Thoughts? Other than it will prob take a month to get?

 

[crane operator]

Amazon has it in stock for $100 more, says I could have it by friday.

I've been around the oxy lances, but never used one myself. I burned through a 3" pin on a detach trailer pivot pin that was bent, with a regular oxy/acy torch, but it wasn't pretty. That was after getting the other side with a welded on plate and jack, but one side wasn't coming- so it got the torch. After I got the hole through it, and most of it cut out, it came the rest of the way with the jack.

Got a small divot going, and just kept working it in circles blowing the slag out in a river.

https://www.amazon.com/Oxylance-System-G250-150-540-Regulator-JRSC2024S-REG/dp/B07HFGTHZQ

 

[1693TA]

That is not a bad kit but you can make what you need easy enough. I've used 3/8" automotive brake line and stuff this with bare thin steel tig welding rod as tightly as possible without distorting the rod. Once you have the line stuffed, crimp it down a bit so the filler doesn't slide out. Affix an oxygen regulator and a simple ball valve after the regulator but before the burning bar. Light a cutting torch, and light the end of the burning bar with the oxygen flowing, (have to experiment with pressure) and the burning bar will stay lit. My Broco set uses about 60psi and does a very good job with 3/8 bar. Start your pierce in the center of the pin and work the bar in and out steadily and stay clear of the flying sparks and slag created. Look at youtube if you've never done this in the past. It is hot, noisy, and very dangerous if not prepared.

Broco like I have:

 

[Delmer]

3/8" pipe is not too big, you can stuff it with wire if you want, but a 10' piece of pipe should go through 4" of pin. I've never done it, chicken. And drilling the center isn't as bad as you think, the center is usually relatively soft.

The pin might be bent, the boss might be bent, or it might have just taken that much travel to gall and seize. At this point, what does it matter

 

[Welder Dave]

If the pin was cut off and you could drill even a 1/8" hole through it, then a cutting torch with a big tip would cut it like a hot knife through butter. A 1/4" hole would be the most ideal to blow the sparks through. If it's too hard to drill you could heat it up red hot with a rosebud even heating the back side that's stuck some. Once it's hot switch to a cutting torch and it should blow through. A cutting tip for 5" thick steel should be an off the shelf item. Heating it red hot and letting it cool could also make it easier to drill. This technique has been used for drilling hard cutting edges. An oxygen lance would certainly work but I'm not sure a pin like this should be the 1st attempt at using one. There's a lot of sparks and molten steel flying back at you. If you can get a hole through the pin you would have far better control and be able to see what you're doing much better with a cutting torch.

 

[earthscratcher]

shimmy had the same problem a month ago on the top boom cylinder 225 Hitachi, cylinder needed repacked leaking all the time. pin would not come out its intended direction, so we got out has far has possible until it stopped about a inch then cut off the flange making it the pin size, then pushed it back the other way came right out, got cylinder rebuilt pit pin back in and welded A big washer where the flange was