Shimmy1
Senior Member
Smart ass. Did I let you down? You were hoping for 10 pages of misery? Lol
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Rebuilding Deere 1810E scraper
- Thread starter Shimmy1
- Start date
Smart ass. Did I let you down? You were hoping for 10 pages of misery? Lol
Shimmy1
Senior Member
I've asked the mods if they could edit the thread title to include "Rebuilding Deere 1810E scraper"
Shimmy1
Senior Member
More fun to come........
crane operator
Senior Member
I was hoping it would get bad enough, that you would need that fire truck in the corner. But I'll live with the disappointment. 
Shimmy1
Senior Member
Story on that, I'm sure someone will ask. It was purchased new by our department in 1977. We upgraded it, and tried to sell it, but couldn't get a bid. The guy I work with and myself each decided to spend $2500 and buy it, he will use it during harvest, I will when I'm burning trees.I was hoping it would get bad enough, that you would need that fire truck in the corner. But I'll live with the disappointment.
It is a 1977 Ford F750.
389, 5+2. 9500 original miles.
terex herder
Senior Member
I welded and rebored one of those hitches a couple months ago for a neighbor.
CM1995
Administrator
- Joined
- Jan 21, 2007
- Messages
- 13,464
- Location
- Alabama
- Occupation
- Running what I brung and taking what I win
Done.
And for the record I would have traded that pan in on a new one and dodged the bullet of all this grief you've put upon yourself. With all the money you're making, I'm sure you needed a write off.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Getting the pins turning will help in getting them out. The pins have a specific section that takes the highest force from the cylinder. It would only take a slight deflection for the pin to be basically locked in position. Turning them out of their locked/set position should let them come out easier. In a perfect world pins would slide in and out easily but that 1 time you ran out of grease and had to go a little longer without grease or grease wasn't getting all around the pin is all it takes. That's why auto lube is great where it's practical.
Shimmy1
Senior Member
Done.
And for the record I would have traded that pan in on a new one. With all the money you're making, I'm sure you needed a write off.
Meh. I'll spend about $15k in parts, and maybe 3 weeks in the shop, and have 3 scrapers that are 95% of new. So, give or take $20k. New ones are $135k, and I don't think they're as good.
Thanks for the title change.
Shimmy1
Senior Member
These pins are FIXED in these bores. They never turn, are never greased. The rotation happens between the pin and cylinder rod eye, the bushes have enough wear to justify replacement, minimal wear on the pin even. Cylinders need resealing. But since I'm putting new bushings in, they are getting pins.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Getting penetrating oil or some kind of lubricant on them and turning them in the normally dry bores would help them come out easier. The gouges in the pin are too far down for it to be from mushrooming on the end of the pin. It's like the pin was galling in the bushing when it was being pushed out.
terex herder
Senior Member
The way those pins are cantilevered they have to be very tight in the bores. If they start to work they will fail quickly.
Shimmy1
Senior Member
Are you hinting that I am not going to want to do a bunch of work to those bores before putting new pins in? I was planning on honing the bores out good and clean, greasing them well, and possibly plan on pulling them every winter to keep them semi-free? Something is telling me that I prob shouldn't do this....
Clean the bore up with solvent and scrubbing, then I'd only sand any spots that are obviously galled, gouged etc. I would use grease putting them back together, then paint the other end shut. To me, that pin looked like it was rusted tight on that end, then eventually galled and seized on it's way out. Just what I'd do, I don't see any force that's going to rotate those pins, they shouldn't work loose, but you don't want to make them sloppy easy, just not galled the next time they have to come out.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Something like dry graphite spray on the pins and bushings could be a good idea as it won't attract dirt and grit. Might be good to try the pins in the bushings without the cylinder installed and check they will turn. They can be a tight fit but you shouldn't have to force them in. If they won't turn are more likely to be a problem removing in the future.
Shimmy1
Senior Member
This project has me thinking. Is this something more likely to kill us or come in handy?
Welder Dave
Senior Member
For the odd use I'd see if I could rent one.
OzDozer
Senior Member
AME Intl sell all Chinese products. If you're happy enough to buy and use Harbor Freight tools, then by all means, purchase the AMT 100T jack.
I've got one of the Chinese hyd bead breakers, identical to the AMT unit, it works just fine for my occasional use, but I wouldn't buy one to use for making a living out of tire repair work.
If you want a 100T jack with real quality, then you buy a U.S. made brand-name product - Enerpac or OTC.
You can easily acquire parts for the U.S.-made equipment, but with the Chinese product, you're on your own when it starts to leak, or something breaks on it.
Just keep in mind also, that hyd jacks are built to operate standing vertically, and if you lay them down, you need to keep the pump on the bottom side.
I've got one of the Chinese hyd bead breakers, identical to the AMT unit, it works just fine for my occasional use, but I wouldn't buy one to use for making a living out of tire repair work.
If you want a 100T jack with real quality, then you buy a U.S. made brand-name product - Enerpac or OTC.
You can easily acquire parts for the U.S.-made equipment, but with the Chinese product, you're on your own when it starts to leak, or something breaks on it.
Just keep in mind also, that hyd jacks are built to operate standing vertically, and if you lay them down, you need to keep the pump on the bottom side.
Shimmy1
Senior Member
This ram uses a separate air-operated pump, so it's basically being used as a porta-power. This only has a 2" stroke, but for a situation like I'm using it, that would probably be enough.
OzDozer
Senior Member
The specs say, "Enerpac - country of origin - China"?! At $2000+, then, someone is adding enough markup, to put down a deposit on a new Lamborghini!!
I've got a genuine old U.S.-made 150T two-way Enerpac ram, and it too, only has a 2" stroke. The problem is, it weighs 65kgs (143lbs), and you just can't manhandle it into position anywhere, it has to be craned into position. It's a massive size.
I've thought about selling it, but sure as God made little green apples, if I did - two days after I sold it, I'd guarantee I'd immediately have a need for it!
I've got a genuine old U.S.-made 150T two-way Enerpac ram, and it too, only has a 2" stroke. The problem is, it weighs 65kgs (143lbs), and you just can't manhandle it into position anywhere, it has to be craned into position. It's a massive size.
I've thought about selling it, but sure as God made little green apples, if I did - two days after I sold it, I'd guarantee I'd immediately have a need for it!