Rebuilding Deere 1810E scraper

[earthscratcher]

shimmy aluminum would be the cats meow, do you like the thru hole design ? picked these up on ebay 75 and 100 came out of a coal mine in Wyoming under 400 a piece

 

[Shimmy1]

I'm not sure what we like right now. Just asking because I like to have the proper tooling when doing these projects. I can't find the I.D. on these hollow rams. A guy just uses a chart for tensile strength when rigging these things? Where does a guy source tool grade materials? Say 1" or 1.25" fine threaded? Something tells me that standard 1" threaded rod is not gonna be strong enough to pull on with even a 50 ton ram.......

 

[Shimmy1]

For the odd use I'd see if I could rent one.

Yeah, that does not happen and is not an option. If we need this type of tooling, we buy it. That's why I want to buy the right stuff.

 

[Bumpsteer]

Yeah, that does not happen and is not an option. If we need this type of tooling, we buy it. That's why I want to buy the right stuff.

Check McMaster Carr for the threaded rod in better grades.

Ed

 

[Delmer]

As far as aluminum, that kind of thing shouldn't get handled very often, so using rigging to lift it isn't such a big deal. And you'd have to be a pretty strong boy to be able to handle that thing overhead anyway. If it was me, I'd stick with steel all the way.

 

[farmerlund]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K7L76NT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I got mine off amazon a year or so ago. 30t and a 60t with air foot pump. Got everything for around $900. the hollow rams are nice for pin pulling.

 

[Shimmy1]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K7L76NT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I got mine off amazon a year or so ago. 30t and a 60t with air foot pump. Got everything for around $900. the hollow rams are nice for pin pulling.

Have you used those enough to know if they are actually standard tons, or metric? A 30T if metric would actually be 33 tons in our world.

 

[Welder Dave]

It looks like a copy of an Enerpac cylinder. Not sure if it would use common seals or not. Most big tools like that are readily available to rent here pretty reasonably. I rented a 1" drive Milwaukee cordless impact wrench for $50/day and I think the socket and swivel was an extra $25 for both. It came with 2 batteries but I only had 8 bolts to tighten. Would have cost over $1000 to buy everything I needed but I wouldn't use it enough to justify the cost.

 

[Shimmy1]

Of the 4 cylinders I've disassembled out of the 15 total, 3 of the 4 had red Locktite on the piston nut. The first one we didn't know it, and destroyed the rod trying to remove the nut. Since then, including the one today, we applied heat with the torch and the nuts come off ok.

Question is, I have never used red Locktite, or any Locktite for that matter, on a piston retaining nut before last year. Do we go back on with red? Blue? None at all? What say you guys? The last two we did use blue, because I know that comes free without removing the threads, but I want your opinions.

 

[Welder Dave]

I'd use red if they originally had red. Piston nuts typically go a lot tighter than standard bolts and you don't want them coming loose. If you know it's on there then you know to heat it up to remove the nut. I was looking at Loctite and noticed certain types are only good up to a certain bolt size. If you have bolts or nuts over an inch check that the Loctite is good for the size of thread you have.

 

[terex herder]

Here is what I use for pulling with my 60 ton hollow ram. These are Williams Form Engineering 150KSI all thread. It is used for rock and soil anchors. The coil thread thread form is more tolerant to rough treatment.

Be aware the listed size is smaller than the actual diameter. The one shown is 1 3/8, just fits in a 1 1/2 hole. Hollow ram cylinders are used to tension these rods after installation when used as anchors. That rod is good for a 75 ton ram.

 

[crane operator]

No cylinder I've ever rebuilt has been loctited. And I've never put it on when reassembling.

Do you think the cylinders are still factory, or have they been rebuilt?

I get the hardened threaded rod instead of soft all thread when making up pullers. You should be able to get some from your truck parts supplier, if they make u-bolts. and then the thicker nuts that they have for them.


Like this stuff:

Center Mark Grade 8 Threaded Rod

U-Bolt High Nuts and Washers

It looks like a copy of an Enerpac cylinder. Not sure if it would use common seals or not. Most big tools like that are readily available to rent here pretty reasonably. I rented a 1" drive Milwaukee cordless impact wrench for $50/day and I think the socket and swivel was an extra $25 for both. It came with 2 batteries but I only had 8 bolts to tighten. Would have cost over $1000 to buy everything I needed but I wouldn't use it enough to justify the cost.

I would imagine anything for Shimmy1 to rent is a big drive away.

 

[Welder Dave]

I'm not sure how close he is to a bigger rental house. Just seems like renting would be a good option for something that costs over $1000 and isn't used very often.

 

[Shimmy1]

I'm not sure how close he is to a bigger rental house. Just seems like renting would be a good option for something that costs over $1000 and isn't used very often.

120-175 miles. Renting specialty stuff like I'm looking for is really not an option. The big impact, and stuff like that, I already own, because we use it pretty much monthly, sometimes more, and virtually daily in the shop during the winter.

I really don't know if there is anywhere in this state that would rent out a 100 ton ram, much less a 50 or 20. The only guys that have that stuff are dealers, and they don't loan tools. I'm not a renter anyway, unless it's a $20-60k machine that I need once a year. Spend a grand or two on a tool that I know I'll use a few times a year, shut up and take my money, because that day will always come when you have a breakdown where that tool more than pays for itself in one job. Tools are never a bad investment.

 

[Shimmy1]

One vote for red, one vote for none........

 

[Welder Dave]

AME Intl sell all Chinese products. If you're happy enough to buy and use Harbor Freight tools, then by all means, purchase the AMT 100T jack.

I've got one of the Chinese hyd bead breakers, identical to the AMT unit, it works just fine for my occasional use, but I wouldn't buy one to use for making a living out of tire repair work.

If you want a 100T jack with real quality, then you buy a U.S. made brand-name product - Enerpac or OTC.
You can easily acquire parts for the U.S.-made equipment, but with the Chinese product, you're on your own when it starts to leak, or something breaks on it.

Just keep in mind also, that hyd jacks are built to operate standing vertically, and if you lay them down, you need to keep the pump on the bottom side.

SPX Power Team is another good brand.

 

[Welder Dave]

One vote for red, one vote for none........

The red would give peace of mind it wouldn't come loose and you could mark the nut so you know to heat it before removing. Heating is easy and isn't hot enough to hurt anything.

 

[Zewnten]

Depends on the manufacturer. Hitachi requires it on some of their cylinders, most don’t. I know that doesn’t help, I’d personally call a cylinder shop and see what they say.

 

[earthscratcher]

on the rod on thru holes I try to use four footers, for different applications, stay away from fine thread its forever to get off. use what terex said, or check out acme thread and acme nuts its lightning fast, on and off, and you won't find a stronger thread, handles dirt and gunk without jamming

 

[Georgia Iron]

AME Intl sell all Chinese products. If you're happy enough to buy and use Harbor Freight tools, then by all means, purchase the AMT 100T jack.

I've got one of the Chinese hyd bead breakers, identical to the AMT unit, it works just fine for my occasional use, but I wouldn't buy one to use for making a living out of tire repair work.

If you want a 100T jack with real quality, then you buy a U.S. made brand-name product - Enerpac or OTC.
You can easily acquire parts for the U.S.-made equipment, but with the Chinese product, you're on your own when it starts to leak, or something breaks on it.

Just keep in mind also, that hyd jacks are built to operate standing vertically, and if you lay them down, you need to keep the pump on the bottom side.

Harbor Freight jacks are definitely, not made for the long run. I consider them to be a one time use item. Out of 4 jacks that I have purchased from them they all stopped working fairly quickly. The first 2 were returned for new ones. The last 2 were kept inside and they stopped working within about 2 years.


They last time I needed them I did a basic test before transporting them into the field. They seemed fine and moved up, once i got them 3 hours away to the loader they would pump up a few inchs but then settle back down. We also have several American made jacks which lasted 10 to 15 years the rebuild kits for them cost as more than a new harbor freight jack.