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Somebody has to do it, and nobody else volunteers: the fixing saga

skyking1

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Okay on further review, The back of the engine is not damp. I don't see anything coming out of that area. It just happened to be clean.
However, the middle of the oil pan is really wet.
It's running down the high spot of the pan down the front of the deep part and across and dripping off at the drain plug boss.
Either the pan gasket or something else up there in the middle of the engine. It may be as simple as the oil filter adapter?
 

Truck Shop

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When they look at it-it will be obvious if it is leaking between rear structure and block.
It normally is higher on the block.
 

skyking1

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Yes I washed that whole thing down with brake clean yesterday and it is still popcorn fart dry back there.
I was simply mistaken and hadn't crawled in there far enough to see but that middle of the pan is really soaking wet with oil.
I can wipe off the edge of the pan where it's running down and that area fills right back in and heading for the drain plug boss. It is definitely an engine running leak.
It was all dry this morning after my cleanup last night, until I got it warmed up and running.
 

OzDozer

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Semi-Retired ..
Lower engine leaks are a PIA to trace. I thought I had a rear main oil leak in SWMBO's Camry, it was dripping right off the rear of the oil pan. Cleaned it up, then I thought it was the oil pan leaking.

Cleaned it again over the whole lower part of the engine - then found it was the oil pump seals leaking (oil pump is mounted on the front of the block).
The leak was from coming from the pump, running down the front of the block, running across the front, then along the oil pan to the rear, then dripping off.

An hours wrenching, two o-rings and a lip type seal, and she was dry as the proverbial!
 

skyking1

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It is on the right side as far as I can tell.
img.axd


Like right there at the dirty spot on this picture, only wetter!
 

Truck Shop

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Ok--the area your saying is wet is oil filter manifold to oil cooler housing area, front bottom Blue.
The area the rear structures normally leak at is in blue also.
*
img.jpg
 

skyking1

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washington
I got a look at the repair bill for the dump truck for the last service. They charged us 2500 bucks and they replaced all the slack adjusters and fix some other things along with a service.
Now I know!
150 was for the inspection.
 

skyking1

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I got word back that it has lots of leaks. Score one for truck shop!
They said front cover, oil pan, injector pump, behind the injector pump, and the main seal.
I told them to get me a price estimate on everything but the main seal. We'll see what they come back with.
 

Truck Shop

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40 hours at $120 $5,000 labor not including rear main, that old and all the bolts that
don't want to let loose plus other incidentals eating time. Allot of time cleaning surfaces/
parts. WAG.
 

skyking1

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He ballparked 30 hours to get the front cover off and back on.
His rate is 150.
I knew that I was going to be a big deal.
I would take it on but I just don't know, I don't have any big tools or experience at that size. I would really rather not open up the can of worms and not be able to close it.
 

Truck Shop

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I'm not far off on cost just flipped on hours verse rate. Realistically to do a reseal on a 3406,
if quoted 30 hours on front cover is he including the structure plate to block or just the cover?
Other wise if front structure plate too that is a bunch more in time. But while there may as
well check the gear train bushings.
 

Truck Shop

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I love it when the {:oops:} wow guy is used--People are so out of touch working old engines.
 

Truck Shop

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that was pulling the gears, if we are talking apples to apples I don't know.
The same-but I think he's a little close on his hours, because if he's removing gears he should be
resealing front plate to block also which is injection pump off {needs resealed} air compressor,
water pump, oil cooler {needs resealed} and pan off, which may as well be left off to reseal the
rear structure. IMO.
 
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