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Upfitting an International 4700

1693TA

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
2,687
Location
Farmington IL
Occupation
FAA Radar Engineer, (Retired)
I wasn't picking. We have rolling hills that our L10 and 4sp auto just doesn't do that well on pulling anything really. However it makes a great on site truck.
That DT-466 is worked hard but not really abused. I'm the only one that drives this truck during harvest and it only sees about 1.5K per year total. I use the floorboard as a throttle limit, but not till the top of second gear. No jackrabbit but it gets going fast enough. Been around since 1996 and the trailer shown connected was purchased new then for it and they stay together only separated for maintenance and greasing. The 5th wheel is greased weekly during harvest. Wendy drives the other truck and it's a tandem with M-11 Cummins and an automatic. We always pass each other on our shuttle runs.

I do get passed a lot on the state highways traveled to elevators when full by plenty of higher horsepower trucks. Not hard to tell the grain haulers from the farmers harvesting their crops. However the combine, or chase cart never has to wait on either of use as they are still harvesting when one of us gets back unless held up at the elevator.
 

MG84

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2023
Messages
683
Location
Virginia
The current bed setup isn't going to work after all, lift gate/tailgate won't open all the way when hooked to a trailer. I need a flatbed which was my original intent for the truck. The lift gate is handy but the current bed just poses too many compromises. I've got two options 1) Cut the sides off the current bed, remove the lift gate and sell the lift gate, or 2)Remove and sell the bed complete, buy another used flat bed and rework it to fit my needs.

With option 1, the tool boxes are already mounted, the bed is on the truck already, would just take a good bit of torch/grinder time. I'd then have to add stake pockets but otherwise it'd be ready to go. The big problem I see with this is the way the bedsides are made. Best case it will be a dirty, hot and miserable job, worst case it ends in a huge conflagration since the bottom of the bed sides are packed will all sorts of debris, much of it appears to be soaked in oil:
IMG_0853.JPGJudging from the outside it looks like there is a solid weld bead between the floor sheeting and the side sheeting, If I were to cut just above this I wouldn't have to re-weld that seam:
IMG_0854.JPG I also had the idea to buy one of those fancy new metal cutting circular saws, I think it would run along the bedside and make a clean cut. Would then have to go with a cutoff wheel on the 7" grinder to cut the posts off from the inside.

Option 2 is buy another flat bed. Best option I've found thus far is an older 19' flatbed for sale locally for $800, looks to probably be from the 70's. Its in good shape, no rust, but would have to be cut down to length. The other issue is it originally had a wood floor and someone put a diamond plate floor on it, maybe 3/16 at most, and the cross members are on 24" centers. This wouldn't hold up to my uses, I'd either have to add more cross members or remove the metal and go back to a wood deck (which would be ok, aside from the work involved.)

Looks like any way I go about it there is going to be a fair amount of cutting, grinding and welding. Probably would be a wash money wise between the two options, just trying to figure out what would be the least amount of time and labor and what would be the best end result. I did price new flat beds and holy mackerel, they are in the $7K range for a 14'. Why on earth are they so much? That's as much as a new good quality 20' 15K equipment trailer.
 

MG84

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2023
Messages
683
Location
Virginia
Well, I made my decision:

IMG_0869sm.jpg
IMG_0873sm.jpg
IMG_0875sm.jpg

The new metal cutting circular saw made it about 4' down one side before the blade was shot, tons of junk was stuffed down in there including broken glass. Ended up resorting to using the 7" grinder with a cut off wheel, wasn't a fun job but I got it done.
 

MG84

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2023
Messages
683
Location
Virginia
Thanks yall

The thought of making it a dump bed has crossed my mind, but then again I do have three other dump trucks here. We’ll see how it works as a flatbed first and then go from there.

Took and weighed the truck today, was right at 16,000lbs originally, with the sides and lift gate removed it is now at 13,500lbs. That gives me over 9 tons of cargo capacity which is excellent.

On the not so good side of things the rear main seal and/or transmission input seal is leaking fairly badly when hot. I don’t have the time to deal with that right now so I dropped it off at our local heavy truck and equipment shop to have them do it. They do good work and I don’t have to mess with it.
 

PeterG

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2015
Messages
480
Location
United States
Occupation
Contractor
Looks fantastic! Can we please start planning phase two, three, and four now?

It's important to go crazy with the following:
1.Your Lumber rack
2. Your fuel Transfer tanks
3. Tool boxes
4. Drop down sides
5. Work lights
6. Flashing Beacon and tail lights
7. Hydraulic winches on the front bumper, and in the flat bed
8. Hydraulic Folding Equipment ramps
9/ Welded on D-rings, and specialty mounts for shovels, traffic cones, etc.
 

MG84

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2023
Messages
683
Location
Virginia
Looks fantastic! Can we please start planning phase two, three, and four now?

It's important to go crazy with the following:
1.Your Lumber rack
2. Your fuel Transfer tanks
3. Tool boxes
4. Drop down sides
5. Work lights
6. Flashing Beacon and tail lights
7. Hydraulic winches on the front bumper, and in the flat bed
8. Hydraulic Folding Equipment ramps
9/ Welded on D-rings, and specialty mounts for shovels, traffic cones, etc.
Lol, several of those are in the works...

Next things to do are:
- Lights, need to install the three ID lights in the bed since they came off with the lift gate
-Tie downs in the bed floor, may try key hole slots
-Trans temp gauge
-Front tow hooks
-Underbody tool boxes need new latches/keys
-Mounts for shovels and long handle tools on the head board
-Touch up the paint on the bed
-More aggressive drive tires
-Buy a set of aluminum loading ramps (may be an entire discussion on that) and make holder between the bed frame rails to store them
 

PeterG

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2015
Messages
480
Location
United States
Occupation
Contractor
-Buy a set of aluminum loading ramps (may be an entire discussion on that) and make holder between the bed frame rails to store them


Regarding the loading ramps, not sure what your ideas are there. I used heavy 11' long steel ramps to get my Takeuchi TB016 (3,500 lbs or so) into the back of my F450 landscape dump truck. I now have some aluminum truck trailer ramps. They work well for my mini skidsteer (2,500lbs). I have not tried them for anything bigger. I purchased them from Discount Ramps, on sale a few years ago. 5000 lb capacity which I'm not clear on how much weight they will really hold. Nice quality, but way too expensive. I think I paid a few thousand plus shipping etc. on sale.
 

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MG84

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2023
Messages
683
Location
Virginia
I believe the ramps I was looking at were from Discount Ramps as well. They were 12' long (one piece) and were rated at 12,000lbs per axle, around $2500. They'd be great for the skid steer and mini ex and I'd like to use them to load the dozer as well. At 14k I realize the dozer is heavier than the capacity of the ramps, but that is axle capacity and the dozer is spanning a much larger area so IDK. Also not sure if the tracks would tear up the aluminum ramps too much. Still have to think this one over a bit.
 

PeterG

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2015
Messages
480
Location
United States
Occupation
Contractor
12' ramps can be a bit short in regard to how steep the ramps get up against the height of the flatbed (Especially when the ramps are wet), and making the transition from the ramps to the flatbed. Nice if you can tilt the dump bed up if you have a lift cylinder. I find the aluminum ramps can get a bit "bouncy" as they flex, and I would think if your dozer has steel tracks, they would destroy the ramp raised traction bars in minutes. When I bought my Kenworth T800 dump truck, I had it shipped out to me on a lowboy trailer. You can see the ramps under the deck to see how he unloaded the truck.
 

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MG84

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2023
Messages
683
Location
Virginia
On the not so good side of things the rear main seal and/or transmission input seal is leaking fairly badly when hot. I don’t have the time to deal with that right now so I dropped it off at our local heavy truck and equipment shop to have them do it. They do good work and I don’t have to mess with it.

Well, after more than a month I finally got my truck back....

Anyone want to guess what it cost to get the rear main seal and oil pan gasket replaced?
 

1693TA

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
2,687
Location
Farmington IL
Occupation
FAA Radar Engineer, (Retired)
Well, after more than a month I finally got my truck back....

Anyone want to guess what it cost to get the rear main seal and oil pan gasket replaced?
They needed the glowing reviews you'll provide as they donated the repair to you.

No idea but $2500.00 wouldn't surprise me if they had to pull the trans to address the rear main seal.
 

MG84

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2023
Messages
683
Location
Virginia
The bill they presented me with was $4300, I about fell over! Parts/fluids/shop supplies were $700 (which I thought was high but I did request all OEM parts), the rest was labor at $120/hr. I told the shop foreman this was way out of line, I could have done the job myself in half the time they were billing me for. I negotiated it down to 20hr labor making the final bill $3200.

I was going to take my dump truck there to have them put a clutch in it and my dozer for new bottom rollers, both jobs I’m perfectly capable of, just didn’t really want to. Now way in hell after that. This is why I do 95% of my own repair work, I guess it needs to be 100%...
 

MG84

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2023
Messages
683
Location
Virginia
Did you tell them that you weren't sending them those two jobs as well?
No, I made no mention of that. I was upset but kept things cordial and professional, I try not to burn any bridges. The younger me would have had a blow up, but really that doesn't help anything in the long run.

On a good note, I finally got to use the truck for a job today. Towed my CTL and hauled all the tools and materials to form up a slab I'm doing for a metal building. Truck worked great, was really nice to be able to take everything I need in one trip. Any way I can save time and be more productive as a one man show is very beneficial to my bottom line.
 
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