Case 1450 suction filter?

[KevinArmentrout]

Well, I went up to Ashland, VA to Lawrence Equipment. I love that place. The service is top notch, even though I didn't leave without spending $546!!! That TCH fluid is crazy expensive! Anyway, the service tech talked with me and went over a couple things I should try. one of them was to replace the o-rings on the suction filter housing. (One on each line) and I guess the intake of the charging pump. I got the suction filter housing and lines off last night and after finally getting the nut backed off and taking the lines(pipe) off, the o-rings were almost gone they were so dry-rotted. I got them replaced and moved on to the charging pump.....No taco getting that line off the pump. I had to unbolt the pump from the converter and then disconnect the transmission filter line going to the convert just to get it down. Had to put that beast in a vise to get the o-ring out of that pipe, but she was definitely gone too. Got them all replaced and called it a night. I'm wondering if I need to use teflon tape on the pipe threads? Any suggestions cause once I tighten the pipe up, she ain't goin nowhere when I bolt it back up. Theres no room to get a damn wrench on that fitting. I need a set of slim wrenches. Also took the pieces of huge hose about 4 inches long and 6 inches long off and they look pretty rough. I wonder if NAPA sells that hose. I'll try and take some pics. I did look at the charging pump and it doesn't have any play in the gear and spins smoothly..... Now just to get the gear lined back up...lol

 

[KevinArmentrout]

Oh yeah the other things to look at were some valve on top of the tranny. "Modulator valve" maybe... that goes up to the dash. and the orifice tube next to it on the tranny. Looks like I will have to take the seat out...

 

[Wolfe Grading]

My 1155 has had problems like yours.There was a broken spring on range orifice in back of control valve.Another time air entering suction line to pump which you have already talked about.The noise you are hearing are most likely clutches.Also had trash in hole in modulator orifice one time that caused that same problem.

 

[KevinArmentrout]

Hey Wolfe,

thanks for the reply.

After about an hour or so the vdo starts to lose pressure. When you put in gear you can feel the tranny engage just no pressure until you pump the accelerator. I went to Lawrence equipment and bought all the filters. Transmission, suction line, and both hydraulic filters for the tank. I drained and changed all oil in transmission, converter, and tank. I replaced the o rings for the suction filter and the one on the torq converter pump. I unscrewed the modulator valve on the valve body to check the little filter and it was torn so i wouldn't think there would be a restriction there. I also took the orifice out of the valve body and cleaned. I also changed the two big hoses. One on the suction line going to the tranny and the other on the suction side of the torq pump. When it started acting up tonight I noticed the drive shaft didn't engage right away it seems like to me it would be something with charging pump, converter or valve body but this is my first piece of equipment so I'm still wet behind the ears! You can hear it screech when it try's to build up pressure on the vdo gauge. Does it in all ranges hi low for and rev. I posts several threads on the net with no solid suggestions. I hope it's not the converter.

Also When i took the orifice out I couldn't find the piece that goes in the back. O-ring-->plug-->spring-->roll pin-->piece missing or couldn't get out....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdQjHcekCn8

 

[alrman]

Kevin - what area is this "screech" coming from? I asked this earlier....... up high in transmission? Valve maybe?

 

[KevinArmentrout]

It's hard to tell cause if you watch the video it's not screeching at all just sometimes. Only when I have to give it throttle when there is no pressure will it screech. I'll try and listen closer

 

[alrman]

The control valves sometime blow gaskets & I have heard them "buzz" before, but never "screech". The sound was made by oil pressure being lost through the blown area......
Just like when you blow through a leaf or a piece of paper between your thumbs ....... maybe that's an Aussie thing ........ :beatsme :drinkup

 

[KevinArmentrout]

The control valves sometime blow gaskets & I have heard them "buzz" before, but never "screech". The sound was made by oil pressure being lost through the blown area......
Just like when you blow through a leaf or a piece of paper between your thumbs ....... maybe that's an Aussie thing ........ :beatsme :drinkup

ha! Yeah Aussie and southern! I use to pick big blades of grass and play a tune or two! When I unbolted the "death spring" that holds the triangular plate that holds the orifice in, I did notice the gasket around that was torn so I put some permTex on it. I also notice there should be a stud on the left back corner of the housing. It's not there an empty bolt hole! How hard is it to replace all the gaskets I. The.control valve? Is there a way to test. Kind of like on an intake you can spray some carb cleaner in it to find an air leak.

 

[alrman]

Not terribly hard to replace the gaskets - they are a genuine Case purchase.
There are alot of hoses that will need to removed & they will need to go back exactly right or you will have more drive issues.

 

[Wolfe Grading]

Kevin,Sounds like the range orifice spool you could not get out.I used a long bolt with magnet to pull it out.Also when you said the screen was torn /modulator filter,there is a small hole in valve body to modulator orifice that could be stopped up since screen was torn.Are you sure the pump is not sucking air from any where? I have had that problem before also.

 

[KevinArmentrout]

Hey Wolfe,

So the Range orifice spool could possibly be sticking or something?....I had a pick in there and didn't feel anything. When I took the triangular plate off, should the orifice had been under pressure enough to push everything out? Is there a way to check if the pump for sucking air? Also Is it ok to blow air into the valve modulator orifice? I don't want to damage anything.

 

[Wolfe Grading]

Kevin,The orifice spool is not under pressure,the spring & roll pin should come out first.Blowing air will not get it out, I tried!!!The way I got it out was with a magnet attached to a bolt.Other than removing control valve.Have you checked seal rings on transmission shafts.Also it should have that filter screen in place.I had to take my control valve off and apart to remove a piece of o-ring from that hole in the valve body one time.Is there any leakage any where around control valve?Was there much trash in trans. pressure filter? Also if seal rings are cracked it can send fluid to two gears at once.

 

[KevinArmentrout]

forgot something

I think your on to something Wolfe! When I took the Nut and adapter off the valve to service the little filter. There wasn't much left of the o-ring. It was dry rotted to almost nothing. So it looks like a tear down is in order?? I'm a little nervous! I guess I'll throw some different color paint on the hoses and their respected fittings so I'll know where they go. Also I did notice some iffy looking hoses that the rubber is cracked going to the Control valve. We are almost done with the driveway, so as soon as that is finished I plan on removing the Control valve and taking apart completely.

Is there any surprises when unbolting this thing from the tranny? Disconnect the valves from their linkages, disconnect the hoses, unbolt from tranny?

Thanks again!

Thank you for all your help. I really think your onto something with the dry rotted oring. I really don't think it's the converter or the pump. I would think the converter would just go out and the pump looked good when I looked at it but hard to tell. I think the issue is definitely coming from the control valve.

Forgot to answer your other questions....

Leakage around the control valve..... I didn't see any recent wetness, but the thing was Dirty as hell.

Didn't see much trash in the filters...No metal.... Couple globs of goo thats it...

 

[Wolfe Grading]

Kevin,If you decide to remove weight to check seal rings.I block up the weight then use bottle jack under hitch on weight,then pull the loader away from it.Then install in reverse order,be very careful doing it that way!!!Sometimes the caps over the shafts have a deep groove from the seal rings.I had mine bored and rebuilt by a shop up north.They looked new.Pressure wash valve so no dirt goes in trans.That hole in valve body is very small.Might as well put new shaft seals while you have it off.Its heaver than it looks.The pump wear shows up more on front and back plates.The converter has nothing to do with clutches not going in gear.Also make sure that lock nut on pump o-ring is tight;I have used a punch,not good nut.Hope you get if fixed,Its a pleasure to run when its right.I have a lot of parts connections.

 

[KevinArmentrout]

Sounds good. I m gonna try to rebuild the control valve first. The guy I bought it from told me he rebuilt the tranny and told me if I take the weight off the back to use something stout to support it or I will snap something off when it drops. A shaft or something... Anyways, I looked at the overhaul kit from case of course they want $300 for gaskets and o-rings and a couple other parts. Man if they aren't making a killin! I wish I could find an aftermarket kit or something. Oh well bite the bullet I guess. I'll probably take the control valve off next after the 4th and such. I've got 5 kids and they keep me busy! I'll probably have 6 if I do t keep workin on the loader have a safe 4th and god bless you!

 

[KevinArmentrout]

Quick update

So I got underneath again and noticed a hose was wet. It's about a 1" hydraulic hose that goes from the left side of the converter to the transmission. It's not the charging pump side but the pressure side I suppose. Just a small sweat leak. Also the pressure regulator that has a valve going into the converter has a very light sweat leak. If you saw the video you notice it always seems to go in reverse just fine but still seems slow compared to other powershifts I've driven. Should I stay the course of the control valve? Or should I replace this small piece of hose that is leaking? The charge pump side looks dry where o-rings are. Looks like a good seal. If I replace this hose I'm sure I'll take another hydraulic bath

 

[Wolfe Grading]

I think that hose is converter drain to transmission.Mine has hose clamps on that hose.if hole in control is clogged it would not go in any gear very well.I would check seal rings before I took off control valve.They are not very costly.Sounds like you are losing fluid going to clutches.But the modulator does control fluid when you go from forward to reverse.I don't know if I'm helping you or not!!!!!!

 

[KevinArmentrout]

No! You are helping me big time. I just worry about taking that counter weight off. I don't know how much it weighs but I don't think I have anything that will hold its weight. I have a new holland tc55da with a backhoe but I think that counter weight is more than it can handle. So these seals are right behind the counterweight. Why couldn't it have been a dirty filter lol!

 

[Wolfe Grading]

There are two in front 1st & 2nd for each track.Three in rear hi range/lo range under center cover,forward & reverse for each track under other two covers.I block the weight very good then drive loader away from it.You can call me 336-3763038 after 8:00

 

[alrman]

I only just saw your video Kevin.
I don't think you problem is the gaskets in the control valve. Wolfe's suggestion of the seal rings on the fwd/rev shafts is probably the first place to look.
Does your machine have a linkage between the modulator & brake pedal? If it does, try running it with linkage disconnected from the modulator.