sheepfoot
Senior Member
Yes, unhook the rod at the mod valve, may have to do both ends so it does not jam on something. I was looking at your picks and you have the newer mod valve that you can adjust without the weight to shim it. Was waiting to see if you had a gauge made up to check some pressures while running. I know it's a pain in the butt with the seat/batteries/plate to keep moving. We had a tube frame seat made up along with a frame to hold the batteries that could be mounted on the rear with two 1/0 cables about 6' long to leave hooked up to the main battery posts so you could test and not have to do all that take out and put back on stuff. We had tried to get you to unhook the rod early and test for the mod sticking and not allowing it to build the pressure back, that little extra surge of rpms or oil will sometimes make that spool and spring tension pop that spool back and allow the pressure to build back. With it unhooked run the machine, be careful and don't do any hard F/R shifting at high rpms, let it come to a stop then shift. You will more than likely need to remove the mod on the front side and plunger to inspect, later if the pressure stays up. we will give you some more info later, but try it with the rod unhooked first. Really need some gauge sets to be able to watch pressures at different areas. Once again the flow rater is the best way to check it out, then if not avalible some different gauge setups so pressures can be watched. I am sure several are wanting to help you but some of these checks have to be done to know where we are at. We would like to say change the pump, rebuild the control valve and on and on but that mod valve does a lot and can drive you nuts along with a little piece of trash.